sprinklerman Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 If your bike sits high in the back that will suck with those tires. Get one of the $30 billet lowering blocks and get your grabbar about 5" lower and it will help a ton. With about that power and a +6 my old gas bike liked 21x12x8 9 or 10 paddle extremes. If you are lighter than 200 lbs go with a 10 extreme in either a 21 or 22. They are both real close to the same size but the 21" is lighter. If you meet up with us sometime I can come up with about every tire to try. I'll take you up on that. When it slows down a bit with work (and cools off) we are planning a trip to LS. Also, my swingarm is level , to slightly below parallel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 12 paddle and dont look back!!!! Then play with gearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 I thought u said the bike sat up in back, I gotcha now you were saying swingarm was up in back. You probably cant go lower. With a plus 6 swinger a 10 paddle 21x12x8 is a great tire as well as 22" 9 and 10 paddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 I thought u said the bike sat up in back, I gotcha now you were saying swingarm was up in back. You probably cant go lower. With a plus 6 swinger a 10 paddle 21x12x8 is a great tire as well as 22" 9 and 10 paddle. Yea. its pretty much parallel to the ground...but i had to loosen the shock quite a bit to get enough sag for it to get that way. Would i be better off setting the shock a little stiffer and then use one of those lowering blocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LilJockey481 Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Are you on a track? If so eliminate the rear shock and strut it, Id also sprockets are a hell of alot cheaper then tires, I run 15-43 gearing with 14 paddle staggered extremes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted June 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Are you on a track? If so eliminate the rear shock and strut it, Id also sprockets are a hell of alot cheaper then tires, I run 15-43 gearing with 14 paddle staggered extremes No track,just dune style. Kind of rough actually. I put on a 15/40 setup on it , so we can try that this weekend. As far as the lowering block for the rear,,is there a benefit to stiffening my rear shock back up and running that block? Or is it ok to back the shock way off to get the swinger level? Which way promotes better hook out of the hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 ...is there a benefit to stiffening my rear shock back up and running that block? Or is it ok to back the shock way off to get the swinger level? Which way promotes better hook out of the hole? IMHO, stiffer is better. the soft shock will soak up the weight transfer. I run a shaw at the dunes/river and adjust so I get ~1" of "squat" when I launch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted June 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 IMHO, stiffer is better. the soft shock will soak up the weight transfer. I run a shaw at the dunes/river and adjust so I get ~1" of "squat" when I launch. Sounds good. thanks for the input. I'll go ahead and get that lowering block and stiffen the shock back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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