jthemmer Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 It seems when it gets warm i have to give it gas in order for it to start. Other than that fires up no problem when cold. Compression is good. This thing used to sit outside all the time with the previous owner. Would this be a coil pack? Or the CDI? This is also the first time I have ever rode it as I bought it not running and have never owned a 2 stroke before or a four wheeler in general. It seems okay on power, could be more there I think, however my throttle stuck when i really opened it up and now im leary to try that again, What could have caused that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jthemmer Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 also quick note. I see that my tors is removed, but my caps and throttle cables are pretty old looking and I assume stock. Do I need a tors removal kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Did the throttle stick or did it run away? A lean condition can cause a bike to idle high and run away. A clogged pilot jet can do that. So if your using the choke to start it your bike you bypass gas into it the engine. Did you clean the carbs good? Actually pull the jets and clean them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jthemmer Posted June 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Did the throttle stick or did it run away? A lean condition can cause a bike to idle high and run away. A clogged pilot jet can do that. So if your using the choke to start it your bike you bypass gas into it the engine. Did you clean the carbs good? Actually pull the jets and clean them? I do not use the choke as it will not stay out if I try. It always starts without it too and it ran away on me actually it did not really stick to open position. I cleaned the carbs by spraying out orifices but did not pull out the jets, that will be on the agenda now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Yeah pull them out and really get in there. Double check your work. Make sure the cable didn't pop out the adjuster on the cap to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Motooutcastxxx Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Keep in mind too, some of the parts are carb specific, make sure slides are in the right way when you're done, and don't forget the choke tube. You might consider getting yourself a couple of carb rebuild kits, they're cheap, and then clean the shit out of them. I'm not sure this would be why it "ran away" but you never know, as already stated a clogged pilot can cause it though. If it spent a lot of time sitting outside and/or has a boost bottle I'd also definitely inspect the intake boots for tears, rips, dry rot, or something along those lines that could be causing an air leak. If the Tors boxes have been removed it probably already has the Tors removal kit on it.. Were the carb bodies drilled and tapped for the idle screws already? Are the idle screws there? If not I would at least grab an idle kit then. It never hurts to change a throttle cable either, again, if it sat outside for any length of time and you're questioning it change it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 I'd clean the shit out of the carbs as well and throw a rebuild kit in. My little girls lt80 was doing a similar thing last week....start up idle for a few seconds and die. I stripped the carbs and boiled the hell out them for 30 minutes in water, let dry, cleaned with brake cleaner, blew out with air, installed new carbs kit....problem solved. Idles like a champ now. Although this may not fix the run away problem...its a good start. Check for an air leak too as mentioned already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jthemmer Posted June 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 It had a lot of prior issues, It did have torn intakes and I replaced those. I just got my final parts for my carb sync tool so that I will do soon too. The carbs do have the idle screws but my throttle cables are not in good shape, Should I just buy new cables? If so what kind? I also do know it has new carb kits in it, however when I bought the banshee the throttle caps were switched (crossed each other, went to wrong carb) Is there someting in the carb kit that could have been put in wrong as well that I should look for? Also I did a leak down test prior and it checked out good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Might as well get a new cable if its looking rough. Relatively cheap too....I use motion pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jthemmer Posted June 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 I rode my friends banshee when he had it. It had a twist throttle and I really liked the response to it, but it kinda made me nervous as well, not being used to that. The motion pro kits are pretty cheap and I have heard good things about them. I will be riding all gravel roads and such, pretty flat Iowa ground, so does this seem like a safe bet to go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blubyyou Posted June 19, 2012 Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 If you say it has a new carb kit in it I'd still take it apart to verify. Personally I would replace the pilots with new ones to eliminate that as a possibility at the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jthemmer Posted June 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Wound up buying the motion pro twist kit. I also think my carb sync and jets could be the issue so I will start with that after getting my kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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