Zwiser Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Im helping my buddy getting his new banshee up and running right and were replacing bearings and going over things and such so I checked the jetting and the mains are 280 and pilots are 30s This banshee is all stock except for boyseen reed cages and no air box lid with a stock filter. So I told him to get some 25 pilots and 230-250 mains does this sound about right? Also the plugs are black and wet, it still revved out cleanly and idle. there was a small air leak on the reed cage, and there is no hidden porting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Get the air leaks sorted first. What elevation and temps do you ride at? Rebuild the carbs and do a TORS Elimination, if not already done. Get a carb sync tool from FAST and a cheap ebay tachometer. Run B8ES plugs gapped to .028". Jetting at Sea Level for Toomey T5's with the lid off is 25 pilots, needle middle clip, 270 mains. I have pods and run 27.5 pilots, middle clip and 290's in 70* weather at the Ocean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bivens Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Get the air leaks sorted first. What elevation and temps do you ride at? Rebuild the carbs and do a TORS Elimination, if not already done. Get a carb sync tool from FAST and a cheap ebay tachometer. Run B8ES plugs gapped to .028". Jetting at Sea Level for Toomey T5's with the lid off is 25 pilots, needle middle clip, 270 mains. I have pods and run 27.5 pilots, middle clip and 290's in 70* weather at the Ocean. tors elimination kit was already on it. about 450 feet above sea level. 70's to 90's since its summer. has b8es on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Stock Pipes? Reed Cages do not need rejetting. Call Fast and ask Jeff if reed cages require rejetting. While you're on the phone with Jeff, order two Moose Racing Carb Rebuild Kits, a Carb Sync Tool and buy the adapter for stock carbs. You should remove and completely disassemble one carb at a time. With Carb Cleaner thoroughly clean the carbs and use an old toothbrush to clean the exterior body of the carbs. Use the carb cleaner straw and blow out all orifices. Follow up by washing with soap and water. Then blast the carbs dry and all orifices with an air compressor blow gun. Replace the following components with the Moose Racing Kit: #200 Main Jets and Gold Washer #25 Pilots Jets Air Jets Air Screws w/O-Rings and Springs I'd replace the needle and clip with the ones from the Moose Racing Kit. Fuel Needle and Seat Assembly Verify floats actually float. Some have developed holes and allow fuel to leak inside. You can test this by submerging the floats in fuel and watching for bubbles, then shake the float and listen for sloshing. Then using calipers measure the float height to be 21mm or ~.83". Replace the gasket... and I like to replace the POS phillips head screws with allen screws. Verify the choke tube is in good shape, or buy some 3/16" ID fuel line and make a new one. There are some good parts on these pages. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&cat=CARBS/%20INTAKES&offset=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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