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29L/R STRIKES AGAIN


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Exactly! The current high failure rate of the taiwanese rods and recent engine failures is from the piss poor rods. I don't think any of the people that assembled their engines, did anything different this time around, versus with the OEM crank. Everyone has the right to believe what they wanna. I will continue to believe my OEM crank is FAR stronger than any aftermarket crank and that higher hp motors can be as reliable as a stock motor. I know of a guy that has a 195 hp sled motor that was 145hp stock, that's in his trail sled for 10 seasons. No issues with the stock crank. Also, not every sled engine comes from the factory rich. All of the ski-doo sleds since 2003 are too lean from factory and that assited in many piston seizures.

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Yamaha has also been know to build some of the most conservative engines. They leave much on the table and also slap 20:1 oil-gas ratio stickers on our gas tanks. That's over kill! A buddy of mine races dirtbikes. He has a yz250 and broke 1 rod......it was on a wiseco crank. Never broke a OEM rod. He doesn't baby the engine and his 4th place finish at Loretta Lynns proves it. And that bike probably makes like 55-60hp. But then again.....high quality Japan rod.

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How come a hot rods rod will break on a 65hp trail motor and a stock OEM rod will hold up?......better quality in the OEM rod.

 

I'm using hot rods on a motor making over 10x the HP of what a stock banshee does. no problems in 4yrs... Just look at how many OEM cranks are on ebay with bad rods.. they all fail. And last I checked.. OEM dont make 115mm rods.. soooo.. what ya gonna do? shrug.gif Pick the best you can and hope for the best..

 

as for the sled reference.. that guy added 30% more power.. if you add the same % increase to a banshee you get 40 HP. People are adding well over 200% HP to these motors. Thats like asking that sleds stock crank to handle over 450HP with no modifications.. dont see that happening. The cranks from the sleds use larger bearings.. bigger rods.. all around beefier. Again.. sled comparison is not a good reference... Compare a MXZ800 crank next to a banshee crank.. Its HUGE! gotta compare apples to apples..

 

I've seen stock motors go 15yrs.. No way is a 80hp bike lasting that long (unless you never ride it). You want reliable.. keep it stock.. You want more power, Start rolling the dice.. the more you add.. the greater the odds of a failure. I'm done. Bolt.gif

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Fyi......2 yrs ago a semi-local individual ran a vmax 4 with a turbo, making record hp set on dynotechs dyno. It was like 563 hp. He has bone stock bo ttom end!! He blew the track on it at like 150 mph!! Motor still kicking and its running on 42 psi of boost!! Stock rods are strong! The oem banshee cranks on ebay probably have bad rod bearings. That's from lack of oil, poor oil, lean jetting, debris ran thru engine, etc. I would sure hope a 800 mxz crank has larger rods and webs over a banshee crank.....its over double the cc size!! Also yamaha does have 115mm rods. Exciters, phazers, and I think SS440's used them. I was told rd400 has 115mm rods.

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Exactly! Hell, Arctic Cats 1000cc thundercat sled makes 172 hp stock and doesn't blow rods. The reason these banshees are so called "time bombs", is because of inferior aftermarket parts. There is still no reason IMO that a 80hp banshee should be a time bomb. I guess the people that think that, have that mind set from their poorly built banshee, blowing up everytime they ride and now they think that's the common consenus......that banshees are suppose to be time bombs.

 

172hp stock? Ill take $5 of whatever your smoking!

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ya every rod has a breaking point but if your building a engine with 110 rods, personally i would only use oem or prox or look for something similar in length that will be stronger, rather than use taiwan shit. if you need 115 rods i would look into a rod that maybe you could use from a different engine, again i would use a qaulity japan rod. arent the 250r guys using ktm and yz490 rods because theyre alot stronger ? i put a honda rod in my ktm because its 5x stronger. gotta think outside the box fellers :lol: . im not even a pro engine builder but i seen right away the weak link on my motor was the rod. rather than wait until it snapped in half at 8k rpm punching a hole through my cases and wrecking the cylinder, i thought of a solution.

 

smaller rod was the oem unit. you can see i replaced it with a considerably stronger rod assembly and i used prox brand in case your wondering. it cost a whopping $100 machine work to make it fit on the crank but thats dirt cheap compared to what happens when a rod lets go. slightly trecnhed the cases also. pretty sure the transmission will fall out before this rod breaks

 

 

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lower bearing

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upper bearing. dont look like it but both use same diameter wrist pin

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