shanYE west Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Sounds like I need to start making billet cranks at a fair price? I'd buy one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 EDIT: I do see where you clearanced it for the rod now, not just the tins nah, thats untouched. \/ is clearanced. if it is the cases, thats a massive tolerance difference. but MM run's different rods now, so if wickedatv was having a go, it was probably because of the early rods. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mopar1rules Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 It would be great for Chariot to starting producing billet cranks, at an affordable price. I'd be all over that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Billet is no better than forged. I'm not sure where anyone has shown proof they are. I've broken both. The forged I have broken had more time than the billet and guess which was more expensive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 nah, thats untouched. \/ is clearanced. if it is the cases, thats a massive tolerance difference. but MM run's different rods now, so if wickedatv was having a go, it was probably because of the early rods. . maybe im way off but in the years of r&d that supposedly went into these cranks, why is DDU running a king rod when it tested poorly? "Let me start off by saying that the gold rod with the circle K on it is manufactured by King Rod out of Taiwan. I will have to dig up the metallurgist lab from all of the rod testing that we done. The gold rod was something like a 6170 material that is extremely hard with little to no yield (yield is the ability of the metal to flex or bend and return). The hot rod rod is a 4135 metal which has a lower tensile strength but a way higher yield. We also tested to other manufacturer rods including the one we currently use which is not the gold rod." not to mention that the big end of the rod wasnt turned down like it should have been to fit stock cases with no modifiations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee760 Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 No reason to buy expensive an billet crank ,iit's expensive period and expensive to fix unless they don't make for your application then buy billet , also if a crank is gonna give its gonna give even the best out there or worst I just go with industries leader that have had more time and experience as well as you could say a big name shop so I go with hot rods cranks and I also know a lot of people well try to sell a hot rods crank but they only put hot rods on a Chinese wheel that's why you gotta know how to Identify it......I'm pretty shure the m m cranks are also good since he knows his stuff and has done testing and for what it sounds looks like at some point there was a problem but mow it has ben corrected and re tested also i know he will. Back up his products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 the big end hit the top of the case. the crank is still in my bike now, only done about 4 hours tho. its been fine so far, just had to clearance the case. M&M run different rods now, so they are all good and fit without mods. everyone is bustin wickedatv's balls, ive never really dealt with him other than that chat in the shout, but he knew something was up with those bronze rod, wang cranks. yes...all those 29l/r rod cranks that i installed had to be cut more to fit without rubbing..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 if i were you id keep a close eye on that crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 haha not much i can do. either change it or let it throw a leg outa bed. the pic does make it look closer than it is. tho it is pretty close. i like to think of it as a tight tolerance RACING CRANK !!!!!!! with self lightening capabilities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 i like to think of it as a tight tolerance RACING CRANK !!!!!!! with self lightening capabilities. that's fucking awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroking Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 haha not much i can do. either change it or let it throw a leg outa bed. the pic does make it look closer than it is. tho it is pretty close. i like to think of it as a tight tolerance RACING CRANK !!!!!!! with self lightening capabilities. where did you buy that crank from ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbirdshee Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 I had the same exact problem as DDU when I put my crank in. Brand new out of the box the crank hit the front of the top case and I had to clearance the case to fit. (I didn't think it was to much of a problem as I figured it was just my cases for whatever reason.) Also the crank was very close on one side of the case, just like DDU's. And it has this now what seems to be notorious 29l/r rod on it. Well guess what, the rod broke and destroyed my whole motor. brand new in box now a big ass paperweight I was thinking it was just my luck that it snapped on me but after reading about all of this rod failure lately its obviously not just a "shit happens" kind of deal. Somebody should own up to these fuck ups. I know I ended up spending a shit load more money to build a new motor because of this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 man that sucks. i think im stripping my bike before i throw a leg. this is ridiculous. before i though the hit and miss ratio wasnt that bad, but now, im pretty sure all of these rods WILL break. i cant risk it, so now i have to spend more on a build, due to shit parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbirdshee Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Just think of it this way, $400-500 on a new crank now or $2000+ on another motor later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydownunder Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 exactly, thats the deciding factor. i got spare cases, but it would be dumb of me to knowingly destroy my engine. ill get pistons too as mine are a touch scuffed on the intake side ( normal for a cub i know, but im there i may aswell) with shipping its gonna be close to 700$ for me . i think i might just throw my dune port 350 in and just cut my losses haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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