Creamy oil in the case

[Washburn]

 

I did. I ordered the pump gasket, pump seal and two coolant line o rings

 

Like stated above, oil that has been ran for hours upon hours due to neglect by the owner will break down to near black water almost,and can often have a milky look to it from shavings and condensation, Change the oil you have in there now and. Run 1.5 quarts of BELRAY GEAR SAVER 10W30. Run it hard for 4 to 5 hours of ride time.

 

If it still has a milky consistency to it then yeah it would be time to remedy the problem starting by changing all your gaskets. If you go and change your water pump Seal It would be a great Idea to Buy a Billit Impeller, all of the seals, and a new Pancake bearing. \\

 

Also When you take the Head off to change the head gasket you could either get the stock head milled and cut to replace the stock head gasket with O-Rings Or the best Idea would be To Invest in a NOSS HEAD Smaller domes get an EZ Drain coolant plate while your at it too its not much coin and doing all of this will ensure a much cooler and reliable motor.

http://nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

 

with the added Bonus of more Compression to wake up flat spots while your running through the powerband.

A Billit timing Plate would be a wise purchase to compliment the extra compression from the smaller size domes.

If you have it get Boyesen reeds that replace the stock reeds while useing the stock reed cages or Better yet V FORCE 3 Reed Valve System for increased throttle responce while you are doing all of this.

 

Labor will take you the better part of the morning and afternoon but if you do all of this you will feel like you have a new Machine the next riding day.

[turbowrenchhead]

Like stated above, oil that has been ran for hours upon hours due to neglect by the owner will break down to near black water almost,and can often have a milky look to it from shavings and condensation, Change the oil you have in there now and. Run 1.5 quarts of BELRAY GEAR SAVER 10W30. Run it hard for 4 to 5 hours of ride time.

 

If it still has a milky consistency to it then yeah it would be time to remedy the problem starting by changing all your gaskets. If you go and change your water pump Seal It would be a great Idea to Buy a Billit Impeller, all of the seals, and a new Pancake bearing. \\

 

Also When you take the Head off to change the head gasket you could either get the stock head milled and cut to replace the stock head gasket with O-Rings Or the best Idea would be To Invest in a NOSS HEAD Smaller domes get an EZ Drain coolant plate while your at it too its not much coin and doing all of this will ensure a much cooler and reliable motor.

http://nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

 

with the added Bonus of more Compression to wake up flat spots while your running through the powerband.

A Billit timing Plate would be a wise purchase to compliment the extra compression from the smaller size domes.

If you have it get Boyesen reeds that replace the stock reeds while useing the stock reed cages or Better yet V FORCE 3 Reed Valve System for increased throttle responce while you are doing all of this.

 

Labor will take you the better part of the morning and afternoon but if you do all of this you will feel like you have a new Machine the next riding day.

 

 

Couple of questions. What is the smallest cc you can run with the use of 93 octane fuel? What can the stock head be milled down to? I've been reading and its seems that its not wise to go over .030.

 

What does a Noss head run? I'm not a rich boy and have a family so I have to be careful on what I spend. I have two weekend atv trips coming up and I have to have enough $ for those too.

[Washburn]

Couple of questions. What is the smallest cc you can run with the use of 93 octane fuel? What can the stock head be milled down to? I've been reading and its seems that its not wise to go over .030.

 

What does a Noss head run? I'm not a rich boy and have a family so I have to be careful on what I spend. I have two weekend atv trips coming up and I have to have enough $ for those too.

 

As for Milling the head .020 seems to be the most popular to be on the safe side and .030 could up your compression and need a higher octane fuel. Stock domes are 22.5ccs .030 would be like getting 19-20cc domes. all of this is based on your riding elevation how many feet above sea level you ride the less compression you have and the more you can mill or choose a smaller dome size it also has to due with what compression your getting out of each cyl. If your timing is advanced you will have more compression.

 

A Compresion guage will tell you rite where your at. I bought mine at Autozone for $35.00 and it read as dead on as my mechanics $150.00 one. Investing in one is a wise move. They come with adaptors and you want the one that is slightly shorter than the spark plug. Screw it into one side, leave the other side as is till your ready to check it. Then you hold the throttle wide open and kick it over untill the needel in the meter stops rising, kick 20 to 30 times if nesacary. obviously the engine will be off.

 

Here is a chart with compression Specs straight from Noss Machines website.

 

http://nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

 

 

I and many other Banshee riders Choose the NOSS HEAD Over other brand coolheads based on all of the positive forward design of the NOSS HEAD and you dont need longer Cyl studs like you would for say a Pro Design coolhead. Its cheaper to get your stock head milled but the NOOS HEAD will cool your engine when it is at the point of overheating by some stats suguest 30%. Plus NOSS MACHINE Is a long time site sponcer and his coustomer service is second to none. I would call him. I believe his screenname on here is dlnoss. He walked me through the instalation process 5 times on a saturday via Phone 2 months after I purchased the head and domes.

 

19 to 20cc domes are most common for 1000 ft and higher for 93. Most people get a Billit timing plate and advance it +4 degrese and that really wakes up the motor. I am in PA 1250ft above sea level. I run a NOSS HEAD With 20cc domes and a Pro Design timing plate at +4 and my compression reads 155 in both jugs. That is just at the safeline for 93 octane. David Noss can explaine all of this too you. A NOSS HEAD With domes runs around the $250.00-$265.00 range. Make sure to tell him you are a HQ Member if you go with the Head rite away.

 

Im assuming you already have tires and Pipes. Noss Head, Billit Impeller, And Billit timing plate are the best mods to do next and you will outrun most piped 450s 660s and 700s!! Reeds are a great addition too but all of that adds up. I put my impeller in last cause I trusted the NOSS HEAD would keep the stock Plastic Impeller from melting and I was rite.

 

 

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[turbowrenchhead]

I can see do those mods over the winter for the next summers ride. As for now its on a budget. I haven't done a compression check yet. I've been very busy with work and family and haven't go much time to work on it. I want to use it this coming weekend and a June trip.

Wisconsin is between 500-900 feet above sea level. Does this mean I can run a slightly higher compression then someone in higher altitude?

Edited May 20, 2012 by turbowrenchhead

[Washburn]

I can see do those mods over the winter for the next summers ride. As for now its on a budget. I haven't done a compression check yet. I've been very busy with work and family and haven't go much time to work on it. I want to use it this coming weekend and a June trip.

Wisconsin is between 500-900 feet above sea level. Does this mean I can run a slightly higher compression then someone in higher altitude?

 

Oh I hear you you man. Kids cost, baby mammas cost, mortgage bills, and a hobby like the Banshee adds up quick. It took me a few years to get my Banshee as hooked up as it is. I was only dating a Girl with Kids, It still went like water. I dont have any children of my own yet. Im hopeing within the next 5-10 years. My Banshee and my Music Guitar/filming is my baby!!!1

 

Im saying though if you start seeing little problems start with your SHEE and you ignore them and ride a weekend it can really end up taking a month sometimes 3 to save to fix what you could have fixed as soon as the problem surfaced for 100 or less. Its good that you took the steps to nip what could ruin your engine in the butt by buying the gaskets and you will have to take a day mabey even afterwork and perhaps burn the midnight oil fixing it to make sure its mechanically sound for the weekend trip. Ive went into work tired from working on problems espically when I used to ride an LT250R (Mine would just keep on needing fixed). Its good to find the root cause of any problem and isolate it and matinence your SHEE after every weekend or every extreme race and SHEE will last as long as you want her too.

 

No actually compresion is Highest at sea level so the higher you climb the less compression you have hence the smaller domes you can get the higher you climb. I would recomend the same setup as I have for you. 20cc domes and a +4 timing advance. It will probably Im guessing here put you at 160-165 PSI on a freshly rebuilt topend. rule of thumb is 166 PSI and above starts to call for a 50/50 Mix of 93 and 100LL Or VP110 What have you.

 

Fix it up, make sure there are no problems. Make sure your jetting is correct for your Bike because Proper jetting is essential, If you change anything drasticly, Pipes, Airbox, Elevation, WARM and COLD weather, You will always need to rejet according to mods/conditions.

 

A compression guage isent really called for untill you start upping the compression. Ill tell you it really makes a diffrence in the way a 40+ HP Banshee will run through the powerband when you bump your compression up. it wakes up flatspots you never even knew where there.

 

I also believe that for every performance mod there is a counter Mod to keep reliability into play.

 

Good luck bro, have fun on your trip, save up over the cold season and then start modding your SHEE. Most important welcome to the Addiction. There is nothing quite like it.

 

P.S. I have a good buddy with a shop so Im pretty much taken care of unless its a specialty item in which case the sponcers on here take care of all of us members. My tip to you if you could see yourself doing this type of savings is to start an open account with whomever you choose to deal with.

 

Most Shops and parts/Mechanics will start a PAGE with you. How it works is you send them money, they send you a recipt and keep your balance stored so when you hit your mark you can send in the last 100 or so dollars depending on the cost of the merch and get it shipped out to you direct and fast.

A way quicker than trying to save up in a drawer. For me.

 

Thats how I did it. I have 56.00 dollars of credit at the shop I buy my premix and gear oil Parts ect rite now so it will lessen the blow come MEMORIAL DAY weekend!!!1

[turbowrenchhead]

I did a compression check today without blocking off the exhaust and holding the throttle wide open. LH side 60 psi. RH side 100 psi. No good! Looks like I'm pulling the motor out anyway for new pistons rings and rebore.