xander450 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 For those of you who have seen my earlier posts, I've been having some tuning trouble which turned out to be a massive air leak - so, rebuild time. This is my first motor build. I've read everything I can find, and am following the manual instructions - just a couple things I was wondering about. - The rear left trans bearing surface (not the bearing, but the surface in the case that the bearing rides in) feels like it has a groove in it. It's not entirely uniform either - on the side towards the rear of the engine on the bottom case there's enough of a groove that I can feel it, whereas on the forward side I can see it but don't feel a groove there. Is this a problem? - When I disassembled the cases, I was surprised to see basically no sealant where the cases met - all the sealant had been pushed to the outer edges of the mating surfaces, and there was remarkably little (1 mm at most). This seems like way less sealant than I would've been inclined to use, and is likely the source of the air leaks. Am I correct, or is that actually what I should expect to see? Anyone have an assembly pic with the correct amount of sealant applied? Thanks!! -A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert0762 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 When you torque those cases together most of the sealant will be pushed out. There will be very little on hjr actual mating surfaces of the cases . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 It will be very thin when the cases get torqued. The correct way to find an air leak is to do a leak down test. There is a post on here on how to build your own tester....and make sure you do the leak down test!!! Dont waste another engine away because you want to ride today or tomorrow......do shit right and it will run good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 I'm frankly more concerned about the trans bearing surface than the sealant at this point - the sealant was just a theory on why I previously had an air leak. Evidently not a very good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheeManWomenHater Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 if you have a smartphone, download the photobucket app, take pictures of what you are questioning instead of just trying to describe a "groove". you'll find pics, will land you more help here on the site. GL with your rebuild bud! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgehanger Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Tranny give you any problems before? There is supposed to be a groove there for the bearing clip. Put up some pics and show us what you are talking about. Was there a bearing clip in the groove? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted May 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 if you have a smartphone, download the photobucket app, take pictures of what you are questioning instead of just trying to describe a "groove". you'll find pics, will land you more help here on the site. GL with your rebuild bud! Good point. Here's a shot of it. No, it's not one of the half-moon clip grooves... I put some arrows on the pic that will hopefully clarify. The "groove" is really the entire surface that the bearing rides on... it seems to have dug into the case surface. It's less than a mm, and I haven't had any tranny problems, but I don't want to ignore something important and have problems in a few months either. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flamingshee 666 Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 it looks like the bearing spun in the case but its hard to tell from the pic if its spun or just a mark from where it was sitting was the bearing rough or siezed? has it been run low of tranny oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 I agree re: spun bearing, and it's not just a mark - as I said, I can feel that there is depth. The trans bearings look great. Lacking advice, I guess I'll just forge ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted May 18, 2012 Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Mock assemble cases with just trans , cases torqued. See if you have any movement of bearing in case. As to sealing cases be sure to seal surface between crank and trans. Pack seals with grease per manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2012 Will do, thanks for the advice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Ok, just made my first (known) mistake, haha. I apparently overtightened my clutch screws - which is frustrating because I was following torque specs, and the screws were continuing to turn happily. Anyway, broke a spring retainer screw off in the clutch boss. I managed to back it out, but I had a look at the others - I had definitely stretched a few of those as well. So, questions. One, how are you guys setting those screws correctly? I wonder if the HD springs are making a difference in the torque value. And two, should I replace the clutch boss? The screws now seem to have a bit of wiggle when placed without springs in the boss holes. Clearly I need to replace all of those screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) Ok, just made my first (known) mistake, haha. I apparently overtightened my clutch screws - which is frustrating because I was following torque specs, and the screws were continuing to turn happily. Anyway, broke a spring retainer screw off in the clutch boss. I managed to back it out, but I had a look at the others - I had definitely stretched a few of those as well. So, questions. One, how are you guys setting those screws correctly? I wonder if the HD springs are making a difference in the torque value. And two, should I replace the clutch boss? The screws now seem to have a bit of wiggle when placed without springs in the boss holes. Clearly I need to replace all of those screws. Make sure the holes are dry and oil free when you tighten them down. Also the screws need to be clean and free of any oil as well, The oil will cause the screws to tighten much further before reaching the torque pounds that the manual calls for. I would go ahead and replace the parts and screws if you have doubts about them. And the HD springs arent gonna have much affect on torque when you put them back. Edited May 22, 2012 by maskmanLS6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starwriter Posted May 22, 2012 Report Share Posted May 22, 2012 Use an inch/lb torque wrench. Foot/lbs X 12 = inch/lbs. 7 foot/lbs X 12 = 84 inch/lbs. My foot/lb torque wrench only goes down to 10 and is for torqueing big block Ford cylinder heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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