sheerider1026 Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 One more thing to think about. As metal heats up, parts expand somewhat. This is why there is a specific range of squish recommended also.. Do a squish test and check back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 I was afraid it would be too tight. Ill do a squish test to be sure before i pull the head. I thought the stock squish height was around .080 but im probably wrong. I hope it hasnt damaged my pistons yet. Ive only put about 1 1/2 hours on the engine so far and only wound it up twice. Thats when the detonation occured on the top end and i havent ran it since. I hit my thumb with a hammer once, then I hit it again just to be sure that's why it hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 Im running a stock head thats shaved .040 and im getting some detonation on top end. Im running ported cylinders and 5 degrees timing with 340 mains in stock carbs also. Will a 50/50 race fuel and pump gas mix be ok? Set the timing to 4^ and run race fuel ....don't run it anymore until you fix the detonation problem or you will pop that motor ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Thanks for the advice guys. Im going to do a squish test sunday and will pull the timing back to 4 degrees . I have another stock head i can throw on it if the squish test is too scary. Im gonna allow .035 squish minimum and im gonna mix a 50/50 race and pump gas mix and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 How about just getting some custom cut domes and a cool head and do it right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 How about just getting some custom cut domes and a cool head and do it right. I plan to do that when i have the funds available, right now the stock head is my only option. I would much rather have the cool head and domes but its not in my budget right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 having a stock head done up is less than $100. The more i research and play with my setup the more i learned that dome design is critical for a proper setup. the one mull engineering did for me made all the difference in the world. the bike has loads more power off the pipe and a very nice transition. i rode trails for about an hour just cruising off the pipe with the powerband just a blip of the throttle away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 30 tho isnt pushign it its to damn much shaved to tha max. its poked and stroked, tis been GONE THRUU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 30 tho isnt pushign it its to damn much shaved to tha max. its poked and stroked, tis been GONE THRUU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 I plan to throw the other stock head on it for now and send the shaved head to get the domes cut for propper squish if it can be done cheap enough. I dont want to tie up much cash in the head because ide just replace it with a cool head and domes first. Ill see tomorrow where my squish height is at and get back with the numbers so every one will know for sure if .040 is too much to remove from the stock head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 I dont want to tie up much cash in the head because ide just replace it with a cool head and domes first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 I take it that you would just get an aftermarket head and domes then scrap the shaved head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 So why, if you are gonna spend the money to have the stock head redone, would you then run out and buy a coolhead (and craptastic orings)? pick one and be done. I dont understand why everything needs to be so complicated with newbies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 So why, if you are gonna spend the money to have the stock head redone, would you then run out and buy a coolhead (and craptastic orings)? pick one and be done. I dont understand why everything needs to be so complicated with newbies. I dont plan to run out and buy a cool head with domes if i get the stock head machined. Im just lookin to set it up once and be done but i dont have alot to spend. Im probably gonna send a stock head to mull eng. and have it done and run it from now on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 I dont plan to run out and buy a cool head with domes if i get the stock head machined. Im just lookin to set it up once and be done but i dont have alot to spend. Im probably gonna send a stock head to mull eng. and have it done and run it from now on. reliability = stock head and headgasket. I run the hell out of mine. beat it like it owes me money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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