bluebanshee98 Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) Ya bud i can do a plug chop! But wouldnt increasing the jet size make it use more fuel? ok then go with what i said ( jets, lid off) and do the plug chop at wide open throttle with NEW plugs in just before you do it. yes it will make it use a lil bit more fuel (you wont notice the difference though) but the whole point is you want the best performance and life out of your engine.... correct? dialing it in correctly with the right air/fuel mixture will do this. the engine will perform better when you do this too. you def have some sort of problem with it drinking the gas as much as it is but now you will be jetted properly which is 99% more important. this is not a cheap sport. since you will have it dialed in correctly (with the plug chop confirming it) you will have a solid foundation to start with and then can figure out the problem not worrying about possibly killing your top end which is a easy 300 bucks.... what temp is it there now or that you are going to be riding in and your elevation? i should of asked about the these before too because when you have it dialed in for summer temps you have to go up a few sizes in jets for the winter Edited April 6, 2012 by bluebanshee98 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasi S. Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 My Banshee drinks gas a lot. Last time was 66.6 liters at 100km´s, That´s 17.5 gal and 60 miles. This was measured at ice track, -6 to -10*C ( around 14*F) alot of WOT riding. 45 pilots, 1 turn, needle in the 3rd, 165 mains in 35.5 PWK´s. I will measure it again after the temp goes warmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hosed499 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Its about 85 here consistantly all day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakar Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 man youll save aton of cash.if you buy a break down manual and a few jets .play around with the jetting,airflow. youll slowly learn how to fix your own repairs/tuning.its pretty easy once you get in there and see how its set up. if you get stuck come on here im sure somone will help you along.the stealerships charges out the a$$.then you could use that money you saved to get some more parts or best bet porting.......... goodluck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 dude first of all go up on your mains or ur gonna burn that thing up..270-300prob. and ur floats are probally sticking.. you should be able to TRAIL ride that thing for a least 3 hours on a tank, no problem!! good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 What do your plugs look like after riding? I see you had the Infamous mechanic Ben Dover rebuild the carbs, and now you want to take it to the Yammy Stealership where Ben also works, to have him tune it? First thing is you and all new guys need to read and follow some of these threads so things don't have to be repeated endlessly. Clean carbs: COMPLETELY dissasemble them, especially pilot jet out. I prefer Berrymans carb dip to soak them. Blow ALL passages with air. Set float level. Make sure cutaway faces air filter, bowl with "BB" is on left carb, choke crossover is on, sync carbs, CLEAN air filter. MAKE SURE BOWL DRAIN IS NOT LEAKING. Now you are ready to start the tuning process. Read up on plug chops and leak down test. I also agree that 220m sounds lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 220 is definitely LEAN, you should be in the 270-300 range. As was said make sure your carbs are clean and set up properly and that you don't have any leaks. One thing alot of people don't realize is that the float needle and seat must seal properly, this includes the seat must seal to the carb body. There is an O ring on the outside of the seat that seals it to the carb, these will get hard and/or worn and fail to seal. Fuel then leaks around the outside of the seat and floods the float bowl and runs out the bowl overflow. You can only get the O ring with the needle and seat, I tried an O ring out of a universal kit, but it did not last very long and started leaking again. I would contact PJ Motorsports(sponsor) for your carb parts as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hosed499 Posted April 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 You guys are all saying its running lean!? But all the symptoms are the exact opposite? Like its running extreme rich? Ill break into it and see whats goin on and let you guys know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 You need to call the shop that just worked on it and find out if they changed the main jet. Or was the 220 in before you took it in? Someone correct me if I'm wrong but 200 is for bone stock, 220 might be good for air lid and filter ONLY. Have you ridden it since it came back from the shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 Pics of the plugs please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 You guys are all saying its running lean!? But all the symptoms are the exact opposite? Like its running extreme rich? Ill break into it and see whats goin on and let you guys know! Pull your plugs and look at the color, if its lean its going to cause way more problems. But the bike being lean or rich isn't causing you to suck up fuel that fast. It has to be leaking somewhere. Check your float levels like stated before. If you turn the gas petcock on, does it drip out any of the tubes hanging below the bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted April 7, 2012 Report Share Posted April 7, 2012 I was losing gas out the carb bowl. I couldn't tell but when I looked close the bottom of the bowl was always wet. but that didn't run me out that fast. If you want put a little air pressure in the tank, see it you can see a gas leak maybe one of the lines, at the petcock, maybe the T. Maybe you have a hole in the tank. Your bike can't burn that much gas., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hosed499 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Will a needle and seat that needs to be replaced make it lose fuel faster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Will a needle and seat that needs to be replaced make it lose fuel faster? Yes, if it is overfilling the float bowl and ruuning out the vent/overflow. THAT WAS THE POINT OF MY PREVIOUS POST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hosed499 Posted April 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Needle and seat were fine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.