Colby Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Hey guys, this is the first time ive attempted to tackle a complete banshee build. Not totally sure what i want to do yet. Im leaning towards a stock stroke/bore cheetah cub. Im sure i will have a ton of questions that the clymer will not cover. Already have CPI s/b inframes, 34mm PJ's, K&N clamp on, Pro Design Cool Head, V-Force 3. Bike had 18cc domes in it, has been having pump gas (91 octane through it) since i was told it has always been ran on pump gas. Didnt notice any pinging, but the tops of the pistons are blackened and rough. Altitude is at around 3100 ft. I will not be running race gas through the bike so I think im gonna go with 20cc domes. (custom cut for cub heads most likely) Heres a few pics of what ive gotten done so far today. Now im gonna have to look into the clymers before I go any farther. Are the top of the pistons supposed to be that black? And they are textured rough. Is this normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous039 Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Yes the top of the pistons is normal, its just carbon build up. I would recommend you have your stock crank trued and welded if your planning on going to a cub topend. I would hate for you to spend all that money on cubs and the crank explodes from the added power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 if you are going to spend the money on a cheetah cub you should just go the rest of the way & get a 4mil crank. You are going to have pull the lower end down to have the crank trued & weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFH87 Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Yeah those are stock pistons they'll normally come out lookin like that... GL with the build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colby Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 if you are going to spend the money on a cheetah cub you should just go the rest of the way & get a 4mil crank. You are going to have pull the lower end down to have the crank trued & weld. What is the difference in reliability from a stock stroke and 4 mill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildcardracing Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 There is little to no difference in reliability between a stock stroke and 4mil if done correctly. There are a lot of crank options around these days, some of the cheaper ones can be beefed up to be very reliable. As for your piston crowns being that black, either you jetting is very rich or you're using a straight castor base mix oil. Either way it's not a sign of a problem. Best thing to do at this point is to establish what you want to use the engine for, a budget and then call a few builders to discuss your plans. Then build from there. Stock stroke cubs are not a real forgiving play motor IMO, they are great for very aggressive dune riding or racing. -Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colby Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 There is little to no difference in reliability between a stock stroke and 4mil if done correctly. There are a lot of crank options around these days, some of the cheaper ones can be beefed up to be very reliable. As for your piston crowns being that black, either you jetting is very rich or you're using a straight castor base mix oil. Either way it's not a sign of a problem. Best thing to do at this point is to establish what you want to use the engine for, a budget and then call a few builders to discuss your plans. Then build from there. Stock stroke cubs are not a real forgiving play motor IMO, they are great for very aggressive dune riding or racing. -Brandonhe This bike will only see the drag strip, (just for fun, nothing serious.) Ive called a few builders a few different times, neither seemed to want to answer the phone. Goal is to have the bike reeady by the first weekend in May. Well see how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colby Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 hey guys, pulled the clutch cover today and these little guys fell out onto the floor. Tryed to figure out where they go with no luck. Anyone got an idea ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 (edited) what you found is very typical. the washer and snap ring hold your idler gear on. Or whatever the technical name of the gear is, the one that goes between the kicker and clutch basket. the reason it came off is because your bushing is worn out, stock is brass. Call jeff at fast and get his steel replacement. very nice product. Edited April 3, 2012 by trex banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted April 4, 2012 Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 what you found is very typical. the washer and snap ring hold your idler gear on. Or whatever the technical name of the gear is, the one that goes between the kicker and clutch basket. the reason it came off is because your bushing is worn out, stock is brass. Call jeff at fast and get his steel replacement. very nice product. That does fix the wobbly gear but you might wanna look around a bit first. Is the replacement steel bushing softer than the shaft it's going to be riding on? That'll be a bad deal if it eats the shaft. Then you're splitting cases, stripping a trans and replacing a shaft. That's no fun. I've seen some guys are recommending gettin a new OE gear and putting that on since it'll have the softer bushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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