BelleauCarl Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 Yes you need and by the way drain cylinder by removing plug on each cylinder, if not you may have coolant drop on piston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 You yourself admitted faulty comp test, highly doubt it would run with only 90lbs. Have you even done a proper plug chop? Have you tried adjusting idle with large screws on top of carbs? Can also try adjusting air screws. Needle only adjusts from just before half to about 3/4 throttle. If a proper plug chop reads good and you can live with no idle, I'd run it. Then during the three months off you can get a Clymers manual, don't know if download covers tuning as such, and read lots on the forum so you have a better idea of what you need to do and how to do it. Also you can pull the pipes and look into cylinders without having to get a head gasket. JMHO, your results may, and will vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted March 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 I took the exhaust off and had my friend who is pretty knowledgeable with two strokes inspect the pistons, rings, and what you could see of the cyclinder through the head where the pipe attaches ( I didn't remove the head). He said everything looked fine and nothing seemed like it was too worn. So I went to a local shop and got 27.5 pilot jets. Tore the wheeler back apart and realized they were not the correct jets for the carb so I left the 25's in there. I resynced the carbs and i got them pretty darn good this time. I have the pilot air screws at 1 turn out and adjusted the idle while it was running. It seemed to idle fine and is now response on bottom end. I put new spark plugs in and ripped it up the street and a 3rd gear wide open i shut it off so i could do that plug test that i read on here (the picture is below). One plug is brown and the other is barely even colored, just on the tip a little. The weird part is the plug with no residue this time was black before. It seemed to run fine and is not cutting out or bogging down when i let of the throttle like it was before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebanshee98 Posted March 31, 2012 Report Share Posted March 31, 2012 You have to cut off the threads of the plug to get your reading from a plug chop. thats why they call it a plug chop.... Like chop off the threads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeStar85 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Borrowed a compression tester from a buddy and retested the cylinders. Both are reading 115. I am not able to ride it for the next 3 months. So i am thinking what i want to do with it. I want to add some more power to it without spending rediculous money. I am going to re ring it and hone the cylinders. Any ideas about what upgrades are good for mostly trail riding. Anyone know how much a port and polish would be? Thinking about V force reeds and cages. Im new to the banshee scene, any opinions as to what upgrades you reccomend and why would be appreciated. As of now all i have on it is FMF fatty pipes turbinecore 2 silencers and a K&N air filter. Thanks Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maskmanLS6 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 Borrowed a compression tester from a buddy and retested the cylinders. Both are reading 115. I am not able to ride it for the next 3 months. So i am thinking what i want to do with it. I want to add some more power to it without spending rediculous money. I am going to re ring it and hone the cylinders. Any ideas about what upgrades are good for mostly trail riding. Anyone know how much a port and polish would be? Thinking about V force reeds and cages. Im new to the banshee scene, any opinions as to what upgrades you reccomend and why would be appreciated. As of now all i have on it is FMF fatty pipes turbinecore 2 silencers and a K&N air filter. Thanks Joe I just went through the same thing and the problem was in the pilot jet passage way. remove the pilot jet and take some carb cleaner and spray through the pilot passage way. Keep spraying until you get the cleaner coming through both exits into the carb barrel. If you look closely you can see a tiny slanted passage going towards and joining the main pilot passage. There should be cleaner coming out both exits when there clean. Youll need a small straight blade screw driver to get the pilot jet out. After your finished with the passages spray through the pilot jet until you can see through the hole and it looks perfectly round and open. Check your needle clip positions also as well as clean the main jets and passages. The jets are only part of the path to the carb barrel, if the passages above them is restricted then you will have that problem. Im pretty certain that will cure your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackl Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 check compression, thats the first thing i do, since having one of these tempermental critters. I couldnt tune mine at all for the first couple weeks after I bought it, figured it needed a top end but wanted to ride so rebuilt carbs and rejetted it ran great so I thought, then cough and blew right side piston rings rebuilt the motor and wow so easy to tune now now I know what a banshee should run like, check compression and go from there my two cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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