slothman Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Well both top and bottom cases have huge holes in them from the rod, so new cases are a must. He does not have the money to buy a new 10 mil crank, so I recommend having this cub deck down to fit a 4 mil crank... any thoughts on that guys? Then he needs to sell the quad lol.....cause it won't be cheap to fix ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 10mil crank is like 150-200 more than a 4mil... the decking labor alone will cost him that. just sen d the cylinder off and buy a crank from andy at no limit powersports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Something rare just occured.. Phelps is correct.. by the time you pay to have it decked and the timings corrected you will be into it deeper than just buying another 10mil Crank. millenium will be able to fix the cyld easy, but your probably looking ay 500 bucks by the time you ship it both ways, the repair, and a replate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbirdshee Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 he got damn lucky that was the only damage. that will be an easy fix for sure. and tell your friend not to cheap out and just save up some money till he can get another correct crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 10mil crank is like 150-200 more than a 4mil... the decking labor alone will cost him that. just sen d the cylinder off and buy a crank from andy at no limit powersports Guys, I know you can buy a 10 mil crank for around 500, but thats what this crank was, and it has very little time on it. I feel like if he bought another cheap 10 mil crank he might have the same luck. a billet 10 mil is over 1k. Does anyone know of a 500 10 mil crank holding up for a long time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 you "could" just clean it up with a stone... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted March 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 you "could" just clean it up with a stone... I dont understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hold on.... What failed on the crank? Did the rod just snap, or did something else fail on the crank and then cause the rod to fail? If it was just a rod failure what rods were on it? Theres more to this than just "the crank failed" You need to figure out what they cause was and then go from there. Some pics of the crank would be very helpful as well. Also, is it just the two small spots on the base of the cyld wall that is damaged, or is there scoring and gouges up in the bore? IF all of the rest of the cyld is good, and hes on a budget Id champfer the edges and run it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Hold on.... What failed on the crank? Did the rod just snap, or did something else fail on the crank and then cause the rod to fail? If it was just a rod failure what rods were on it? Theres more to this than just "the crank failed" You need to figure out what they cause was and then go from there. Some pics of the crank would be very helpful as well. Also, is it just the two small spots on the base of the cyld wall that is damaged, or is there scoring and gouges up in the bore? IF all of the rest of the cyld is good, and hes on a budget Id champfer the edges and run it.. I wish I could answer the your question about what failed on the crank, the rod clearly broke, why?... I dont know. Yes, only those two spots on the skirt, I have heard the term champfer before but do not know what it means. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cadlab.tuc.gr/proehelp/image/part020w.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.cadlab.tuc.gr/proehelp/part/example4.htm&h=313&w=446&sz=5&tbnid=qKYw41wB6j8veM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=119&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dchamfer%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=chamfer&docid=kUqW2jnlkGuvHM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=CdFzT4y9GcrAtwe5peyMBg&sqi=2&ved=0CGgQ9QEwCA&dur=10478 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I agree with n20, you need to find out what caused the rod to break and fix that so it doesn't happen again with the next crank. If you are on a budget, then this is not the sport for you. Yes, you can do this stuff cheap, but you have to keep in the back of your mind that you get what you pay for. There's a reason the good parts cost more $$. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 you "could" just clean it up with a stone... I dont understand. I wish I could answer the your question about what failed on the crank, the rod clearly broke, why?... I dont know. Yes, only those two spots on the skirt, I have heard the term champfer before but do not know what it means. we are talking about cleaning up the gouges at the bottom of the cylinder and running it if it didnt score the rest of it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 OK, Ill try this again 1- What brand of crank was it? 2- What brand of rods are on it? 3- Is it on gas or alky? 4- was it at WOT when it let go or while kicking or idling or?? 5- Can you post a picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 I agree with n20, you need to find out what caused the rod to break and fix that so it doesn't happen again with the next crank. If you are on a budget, then this is not the sport for you. Yes, you can do this stuff cheap, but you have to keep in the back of your mind that you get what you pay for. There's a reason the good parts cost more $$. BigRed, I agree, finding out what caused this is critical, because I have not split the case, the cheap crank is at the top of my list. This will probably get sent to a professional for an accurate analysis. Have/would you ever run a 500 10 mil crank? OK, Ill try this again 1- What brand of crank was it? 2- What brand of rods are on it? 3- Is it on gas or alky? 4- was it at WOT when it let go or while kicking or idling or?? 5- Can you post a picture? 1- dont know, all parts purchased from and assembled by Kevin at HJR 2- he lists this crank on his site for 465 I believe. 3- straight 100LL av gas 4- Yes, I believe it was at WOT or close to that. 5- I will definitely post pictures when I get some. Big Thanks for all your help so far guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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