slothman Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 fairly easy if you take your time. after you do it a couple times its like second nature. i ran a stock unwelded crank for a year because i ran out of time last spring and needed the bike together, i trued it and threw it in on a dune ported stock cylinder. when i pulled it back out this winter it was a few thousands off on the PTO side webbing from crank twist. if it gets bad enough it WILL tear shit up and a failed bearing will kill a top end. Heres the thing: I'm not porting the cylinder. Just .020 over, wiseco pistons, Bill's pipes, stock timing, stock reeds.....do I REALLY need to weld the crank ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Heres the thing: I'm not porting the cylinder. Just .020 over, wiseco pistons, Bill's pipes, stock timing, stock reeds.....do I REALLY need to weld the crank ? Last time, even a welded crank can fail. Your risk goes up without a welded crank. Risk goes down with a welded crank. You don't REALLY need to do anything except put gas in it to make it go. But eventually something is gonna fail. Welding the crank is like prevention. Same as oil in the tranny prevents bearing failure and broken gears. How fast can you drive with no oil in the tranny? How long can you drive it if you don't drive fast? What if I never take it out of first gear? Will it last longer? All relative questions but nobody is interested in the answers because we don't question whether or not to put oil in the tranny. Fact is, an unwelded crank will eventually fail. Will that happen before the crank bearings are bad and needs replaced anyway? Maybe, maybe not. Nobody can answer that. And to the cat that asked about a stronger after market crank......there is nothing wrong with a stock crank, it just doesn't come from yamaha welded. Most other cranks aren't welded either, that is an ounce of prevention most everyone takes. Want a stronger crank than stock? Go buy a billet aluminum crank. Lol! SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 Last time, even a welded crank can fail. Your risk goes up without a welded crank. Risk goes down with a welded crank. You don't REALLY need to do anything except put gas in it to make it go. But eventually something is gonna fail. Welding the crank is like prevention. Same as oil in the tranny prevents bearing failure and broken gears. How fast can you drive with no oil in the tranny? How long can you drive it if you don't drive fast? What if I never take it out of first gear? Will it last longer? All relative questions but nobody is interested in the answers because we don't question whether or not to put oil in the tranny. Fact is, an unwelded crank will eventually fail. Will that happen before the crank bearings are bad and needs replaced anyway? Maybe, maybe not. Nobody can answer that. And to the cat that asked about a stronger after market crank......there is nothing wrong with a stock crank, it just doesn't come from yamaha welded. Most other cranks aren't welded either, that is an ounce of prevention most everyone takes. Want a stronger crank than stock? Go buy a billet aluminum crank. Lol! SP So I guess it's a gamble.... just like anything else. But I might as well pull the crank, since my engine is half apart right now anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 My crank came out of balance when my bike was stock and was racing. Just do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 28, 2012 Report Share Posted March 28, 2012 My crank came out of balance when my bike was stock and was racing. Just do it did you have it pinned in 6th? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94BANSHEE Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well since my banshees engine is a 94 wouldnt I be better off just buying a brand new aftermarket crank considering the age of mine plus if I have to open everything up I might as well. How much do aftermarket cranks cost and do they come welded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well since my banshees engine is a 94 wouldnt I be better off just buying a brand new aftermarket crank considering the age of mine plus if I have to open everything up I might as well. How much do aftermarket cranks cost and do they come welded? If you are looking to buy a new crank here is the link to the cranks at HJR and FAST. Just the first two I picked up for you. Im sure all of the other sponsors have cranks as well. Take your pick. Youll have to as the sponsor you chose to purchase from about the true and weld. HJR http://www.herrjugsracing.com/Cranks_Pistons_Cylinders_Cases.html F.A.S.T. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Well since my banshees engine is a 94 wouldnt I be better off just buying a brand new aftermarket crank considering the age of mine plus if I have to open everything up I might as well. How much do aftermarket cranks cost and do they come welded? Just because the crank is old doesn't mean it needs replaced. There are service limits for everything. Split your cases, check your crank for true, rod end play, rod end gap etc. If it is out of true or out of service limits then I would probably replace it as it is not cost effective to rebuild a stock crank over direct replacement. If it is within service limits I'd weld it and run it. If you purchase a new crank from a site sponsor, you can have them weld it. Some aftermarket cranks come welded. The last one I bought was from HJR and Kevin re welds any crank already welded. He says the welds are very light and he doesn't like them. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 If you are looking to buy a new crank here is the link to the cranks at HJR and FAST. Just the first two I picked up for you. Im sure all of the other sponsors have cranks as well. Take your pick. Youll have to as the sponsor you chose to purchase from about the true and weld. HJR http://www.herrjugsracing.com/Cranks_Pistons_Cylinders_Cases.html F.A.S.T. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=7 Try this link to F.A.S.T. instead : http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakar Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 (edited) if i were to replace my crank. id go atleast 4 mil . if moneys short jus do the 4mm and leave your juggs stock ported.........then when moneys rite and you want to really wake her up, have it ported ^^^^^^^ by a site sponser. that will keep you happy for a lil while anyway goodluck Edited March 29, 2012 by shakar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Try this link to F.A.S.T. instead : http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78 Sorry about that. Thats the page I copied and pasted the link from. Don't know where the problem occured. My bad, didn't mean to mislead someone. Thanks for catching my mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94BANSHEE Posted March 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Is a 4mil crank designed for trail and dirt road driving and the odd times Im pinned in 6th on a few back roads? There are no sand dunes here and I dont want to build something just for drag racing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 29, 2012 Report Share Posted March 29, 2012 Is a 4mil crank designed for trail and dirt road driving and the odd times Im pinned in 6th on a few back roads? There are no sand dunes here and I dont want to build something just for drag racing A 4 mil is ment for that. 4 mil and port it. You'll never look back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 Is a 4mil crank designed for trail and dirt road driving and the odd times Im pinned in 6th on a few back roads? There are no sand dunes here and I dont want to build something just for drag racing I'd say either a 4mil stock cylinder or a serval for that type of riding. It is a very nice upgrade from stock stroke stock cylinder. You won't be at all disappointed. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave5.0 Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 if i were to replace my crank. id go atleast 4 mil . if moneys short jus do the 4mm and leave your juggs stock ported.........then when moneys rite and you want to really wake her up, have it ported ^^^^^^^ by a site sponser. that will keep you happy for a lil while anyway goodluck There's a lil more to it than just throwing a 4 mill crank in though. U can't just throw one in and slap it back together. Depending what rods are on it you'll have to get the right pistons. Then you'll either have to have the head recut for the extra stroke or run a cheesy spacer plate under the cylinder. If ya don't really bad shit happens. So there's a lil more cost involved with it than it sounds at first. Then there's the matter of port timing. To really take full advantage of the extra stroke the cylinders need to be ported for it. It'll run but prob wouldn't notice a difference. So what I'm sayin is unless your crank is toast or you just wanna spend more cash I'd get what you already have tried and welded. Doesn't sound like you want to get too involved or spend any more money than you have too. Goin 4 mill is more. One of these days I'm goin to do a stockish bike again. I'm not going to do a 4 mill. Just have the crank trued and welded. Run some pipes, small carbs, reeds, pipes, and prob a head and call it good. If you wanna go with a serval I don't think there's much difference in hp between a stock stroke and a 4mill. I think if you start talking about crank changeout you need to look at longer rods also. That's another conversation about rod angle and all that though. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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