Burt Reynolds Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Went to change my lower ball joints,and both of them broke off inside the a arms,one broke off when it was almost out,and the other never budged.Maybe a machine shop could do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Machine shop could definitely get them out. They're probably rusted inside where the threads are causing them to snap off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewayz Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Wow! Both of em? First thing id do is soak them in a penitrating fluid. Wd or something. Then id call a machine shop. Thats hardened steel. Id let someone with the rite tools do it so you dont trash a set of arms trying to do it yourself. JMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S10RACER Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 (edited) Find a Nut that has a opening about 3/4 the size of the bolt. Then u weld the nut to the broken piece and have your socket and rachet ready. Once u weld it while it is still hot try to turn it out. The heat from wellding will break them free and turn right out. Edited March 27, 2012 by S10RACER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothman Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 holy balls batman ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Find a Nut that has a opening about 3/4 the size of the bolt. Then u weld the nut to the broken piece and have your socket and rachet ready. Once u weld it while it is still hot try to turn it out. The heat from wellding will brake them free and turn right out. Except the heat will expand the ball joint thread. The swelling will make it even harder to loosen. You're on the right track though. Let it cool first. The expansion/retraction should loosen any rust. Use penetrating oil liberally and work it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S10RACER Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Except the heat will expand the ball joint thread. The swelling will make it even harder to loosen. You're on the right track though. Let it cool first. The expansion/retraction should loosen any rust. Use penetrating oil liberally and work it out. Yeah u have a point with the heat exspansion But it works, I use this technique often. The best Penetrating oil is Brake Fluid DOT 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 Yeah u have a point with the heat exspansion But it works, I use this technique often. The best Penetrating oil is Brake Fluid DOT 3 X2 on the brake fluid. But I also use diesel fuel on rust threads work great for me. Just my 2 cents. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heylookitsdylan Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 X2 on the brake fluid. But I also use diesel fuel on rust threads work great for me. Just my 2 cents. Brake fluid can also royally mess up a painted surface. I always use PB'laster or Penetrate90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 common sense says it would expand and be harder but ive done it several times and hit it with an impact while still hot and it turns right out. stuck bearing races come right out with a bead or 2 of weld on them too. its neat stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erickson483 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 From a science aspect. Heating the housing of the ball joint instead of the ball joint itself would seem more practical. It would loosen your rust and dirt (along with some penetrating oil) and would make your hole slightly bigger making things easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strm Trpr Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 PB Blaster is your friend. Next time use anti-seize or grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 stupid question, but, did you remove the nuts from the back-side? should be able to soak it in kr oil, drill the center out, smack the sides of the bung/collar with a 3#+ hammer, and then drill the center out. if the edge of the threads that broke are not bent out bad, it would be easier screwing it inwards, rather than out. use a 4-point strait extractor, rather than a tapered spiral. you want it to grab without continuously expanding. as for welding heat, it may work while it is hot, but you could ice the new welded bolt to shrink it, while leaving the bung hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtDiggler69 Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I would progressively drill out the center of the broken heim until you could get a large easy out into it , soak it in PB Blaster ( or one of my old tricks is soak it in coca cola ) for several Hours and then use a impact to free it up . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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