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Yeah. But there is a method to the madness. Port timings are specific, flow, and I'm sure more. People do it just messing around guessing and checking. It's hit or miss doing out your self. It's not just open up the windows and drill boost ports. Like I said maybe you'll get it to run awesome but maybe you'll just make a fuel burning air pump.

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i think theres alot of bad info floating the web from misinformed people. ive seen potential do-it-yourselfers on other forums ask how to get into doing their own work and the usual answer they get is they will just screw it up if they try so just send it off to some shop. most stock cylinders from any manufacturer are in such a high state of inefficiency and low tune that a guy would have to be dumber than a fence post to screw it up to the point it ran worse than before. from my experience, the guys that cant change a spark plug without stripping the threads are the ones discouraging others from doing their own work. when you dont know anything its amazing how fast you can learn because nearly everything you read and hear and see will be new gained knowledge, assuming your sources of information are credible.

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There are far too many variables in this equation. You might get pretty decent results but without a dyno to check tuning changes on you're somewhat limited. Plus, you've got pipes, domes, timing, fuel and carbs that all play a role.

 

More power to you for trying though. I definitely don't feel comfortable doing my own porting. Sure would be cool though.

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I have ported a few sets of banshee cyl and yes they all ran good but ... I was always saying to myself wonder what a good set ran like??

So that being said if you want it the best it can be send it out. If you want it better than before grind away.!!

 

What kinda power you after anyway??

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It is possible to do it your self, but you have to know what you are doing. The only thing I've done was just polish the exhaust ports. Like loco said too many thing can go wrong, just my opinion I would just send them out. I would pay once and know from a reputable builder that its done to my riding style and done right.

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naw i just mainly work on my own stuff. spent the last couple years aquiring nearly every hand tool you can imagine and alot of specialty tools and full set of professional porting tools. dont have a mill or lathe yet but been looking around for some decent older used ones. problem is the grarage aint really big enough for more stuff unless i kick the gf out :rotflmao: . might build a 12x10 shed in the backyard this summer to hold more equipment

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well, really, the best thing to do is to send it out, if you are just trying to do it and save money. seems simple, right? hog and get more flow? no. that doesn't really help on many 4stroke back-yard ports. with any port job, it is usually proper flow shaping that will give you more useable power. where it gets even more tricky on the banshee cyls is that they are tiny, and 1 degree makes a fair amount of difference, and 1 degree on these cylinders is a very small amount of material. really, if you want to put in the time and learning, and can live with the possibility of tossing a top-end in the trash (bottom end possibly, too) then, by all means, go for it. but, i am serious about how much a difference researching will provide. the basics of it, and more info than you can think of is already posted up on this site, though you may have to sift through the past couple years to find much of it. 3 important books are posted up in "useful links" thread in the tech. info section. one real nice tool to have, and necessary to do the transfers, would be a 90, or 100degree 1/8" porting tool. i searched for many months to find one under $300, and finally bought one off someone else for the $100 that i was more than happy to pay. otherwise, it would be about the same price to have it ported by a shop. a few things you will learn, is that more duration increases rpm and blow-down affects how peaky, or broad the power will be. must have a nice chamfer on all the ports, as ring snag is a big deal. it is good to stay @ 66% or less width of the cylinder bore on the exhaust port, etc. and, on top of that, a great deal of nice, predictable power comes from experience, and trade tricks/secrets, which mostly come from such experience. good luck.

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