steady Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 I just scored this banshee on a deal, and tore it down to see the rod and ball all welded togethor and to the inside of the shaft. what would cause that beside the fact of alot of heat. Is there something else i should be looking for when i split the cases? is it easier to replace the entire main shaft with gears on it, or is it pretty easy to assemble with a new shaft with existing gears.. on a side note, when i popped the cover to find a slingshot lock up inside... ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcalsv02 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 It happens a lot. Caused when when you coast a lot with the clutch pulled in. Get the after market pancake bearing and grease the shit out of the new ball and rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dicklez Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Or you can go with a ceramic ball. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Probably going to be a lot cheaper and easier to replace all the gears and the shaft. Taking those things apart takes a ton of time. I doubt you will be able to get the rod and ball out of the one you have now. Just snag another transmission and swap the whole thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steady Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Probably going to be a lot cheaper and easier to replace all the gears and the shaft. Taking those things apart takes a ton of time. I doubt you will be able to get the rod and ball out of the one you have now. Just snag another transmission and swap the whole thing. I figured that, you think i need to replace the entire tranny, or can i just replace the one axle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhioShee77 Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 Probably going to be a lot cheaper and easier to replace all the gears and the shaft. Taking those things apart takes a ton of time. I doubt you will be able to get the rod and ball out of the one you have now. Just snag another transmission and swap the whole thing. cheapest way is to take the shaft and gears out use a die grinder to grind away the welded material clean the gears and shaft replace with new rod and ball!!! 20 min fix after the cases are split!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted March 21, 2012 Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 I figured that, you think i need to replace the entire tranny, or can i just replace the one axle.. The reason he is saying to replace the tranny is that you don't want to mix and match gears, you want to keep the gears running against the gears they have been running against to preserve wear patterns and prevent noise. The only way to find a complete shaft with gears on it is used. It is not that hard to replace the shaft- you will need a small pair of snap ring pliers and then you just need to keep the gears, washers, shims and snap rings in order and get them back on the new shaft in the right place. Did the bike have ATF as tranny oil? This seems to be a common problem for guys running ATF. I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 in my Banshee's trannies. I have ran it for 18+ years in a total of 7 Banshees and 2 Blasters that I have either owned or been the mechanic for and none of them have expierenced a tranny or clutch failure of ANY kind. 4 of the Banshees and both Blasters were girls bikes that like to coast down hillls with the clutch lever pulled in. A pancake bearing will also prevent this from happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steady Posted March 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2012 The reason he is saying to replace the tranny is that you don't want to mix and match gears, you want to keep the gears running against the gears they have been running against to preserve wear patterns and prevent noise. The only way to find a complete shaft with gears on it is used. It is not that hard to replace the shaft- you will need a small pair of snap ring pliers and then you just need to keep the gears, washers, shims and snap rings in order and get them back on the new shaft in the right place. Did the bike have ATF as tranny oil? This seems to be a common problem for guys running ATF. I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 in my Banshee's trannies. I have ran it for 18+ years in a total of 7 Banshees and 2 Blasters that I have either owned or been the mechanic for and none of them have expierenced a tranny or clutch failure of ANY kind. 4 of the Banshees and both Blasters were girls bikes that like to coast down hillls with the clutch lever pulled in. A pancake bearing will also prevent this from happening. gotcha on the entire replacement, that makes sense. it sounds like its not that big of deal to replace the shaft other than makes sure to keep everything in order, and have another reason to go to harbor freight for some new cool tools. I am not sure what oil he ran in it, pretty dark in color. I have flex drive in my other bike and that is what i plan on going back with. I ordered a pancake bearing, new rod and ceramic ball. So hopefully tonight i will split the cases and see how bad it is. Maybe get lucky and it comes out and take a pencil file to smooth it out. But if not i have seen come complete transmissions on here for around $100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steady Posted March 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 well got it apart, and they must of rode it ten more hours after it quit working...the shaft is mushroomed on the inside against the clutch pusher. And it wont drive out even on vise with a punch and sledge. So now on the mission for a main axle, hopefully a sponsor will have one tomorrow and ship it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 I do not recommend anything short of a pancake bearing mod. the ceramic ball will not "gall" (tendency of two like metals to weld with heat) but the problem still exists which is that there is a LOT of pressure from boosted clutch springs or lockup on that ball. The worst case is trans spinning at full rpm (top speed), and engine at idle. These started to become a big issues on inertial dynos. "When topped out, pull clutch and allow to coast to a stop". That will kill them every time. The rod ideally spins the same rpm as the primary trans axle. The pressure plate and outer clutch hub spin at an rpm relative to the crank. The higher the delta in there, the worse things get. The ball was a shit design from the word go. Honda did it right. Mull Engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steady Posted March 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 I do not recommend anything short of a pancake bearing mod. the ceramic ball will not "gall" (tendency of two like metals to weld with heat) but the problem still exists which is that there is a LOT of pressure from boosted clutch springs or lockup on that ball. The worst case is trans spinning at full rpm (top speed), and engine at idle. These started to become a big issues on inertial dynos. "When topped out, pull clutch and allow to coast to a stop". That will kill them every time. The rod ideally spins the same rpm as the primary trans axle. The pressure plate and outer clutch hub spin at an rpm relative to the crank. The higher the delta in there, the worse things get. The ball was a shit design from the word go. Honda did it right. Mull Engineering mull ... do you happen to have a main axle you could ship out tomorrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 mull ... do you happen to have a main axle you could ship out tomorrow? I would have to check in the shop. shoot me an email and I can let you know. We used to stock both axles because of all these clutch rod and gear welding issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jadenrs03 Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 I'm new here and I just bought a 96 and the guy put a new clutch kit on it with hd springs and it was really hard to pull the shift lever in so I replaced the lever with a better one and lubed the cable that solved that problem but I had it out the other day and noticed that when I put it in gear it acts like it stalls even with the clutch pulled in and it lerches a lil when I have the clutch pulled in. Is this a sign that I have this same problem or could out be a simple adjustment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 That is most likely an adjustment issue. You will know if/when the clutch and ball weld themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 I'll take the junk one with the rod stuck in it if you want to sell it cheap... Shoot me a PM. - Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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