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carb sync with tool problems


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So i tried syncing the banshee with my carb tool today. At idle the right cylinder pulled 7 and the left only pulled 2.5. I can bring the right side down to 3 but the left one will only come up to 2.75 with the air screw turned all the way in. If i drop the right to 3 it idles at 950-1050rpm.

 

Then with the rpm held at close to 3000 i got about 18 on the right side and 7-8 on the left side. But the carb slides are so close that i cant see or hear them move differently. i figured they would need to be way off for that big of a difference in readings on the tool.

 

Any idea what is going on here? The right side smokes considerably more than the left also. Not sure what I can adjust.....

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So i tried syncing the banshee with my carb tool today. At idle the right cylinder pulled 7 and the left only pulled 2.5. I can bring the right side down to 3 but the left one will only come up to 2.75 with the air screw turned all the way in. If i drop the right to 3 it idles at 950-1050rpm.

 

Then with the rpm held at close to 3000 i got about 18 on the right side and 7-8 on the left side. But the carb slides are so close that i cant see or hear them move differently. i figured they would need to be way off for that big of a difference in readings on the tool.

 

Any idea what is going on here? The right side smokes considerably more than the left also. Not sure what I can adjust.....

 

You don't use the air mixture screws to sync the carbs you use the Idle screw to sync while idling and the carb top adjusters to sync at partial throttle.

 

I would start off by turning both air mixture screws 1.5 turns out. Get the bike to Idle decently, then start the sync process. The directions did come with the tool if I recall correctly or maybe it was with the tors eliminator kit but that's what I did and it makes a huge difference. Hope this helps !

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you are adjusting the idle speed and the cable synch.

 

set idle screws ( or idle screws on tors caps) to even idle numbers usually 3-6 on the cage THEN open the throttle just a tad and set the calbe pull to an even pull. you should have a lil slack with the throttle closed. slack is set at teh throttle housing .

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Damn it i knew I had something mixed up. I did that just the other day thinking about it. Oh well. should this help the smoking even up between cylinders?

 

 

Yes Definately will get them pipes smoking the same.

 

Since the Sync process can take a little bit of time (15 or so minutes) this is what I did to avoid overheating the engine.

 

Put a Fan right in front of the Radiator and put the fan on High the whole time your getting the motor synced. Just another suggestion.

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thanks for the suggestion i noticed the water temp started creeping up about 130 degrees just idling. I hope this gets rid of that damn hesitation. :headbang:

 

Once your jetted and synced properly you will have zero hesitation.

 

For reference if this helps you at all I have

 

Pro Circuits

+4 Timing

Stock airbox running k&N filter

.020 Bore (Although does not effect jetting)

MX Port Job

VForce 3 Reed Valve System

 

I'm running 290 Mains, 27.5 Pilot, and the clip is on the second from the bottom of the needle (Rich Side of Neutral or middle slot)

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yeap you can tune and jet all you want if the synch is off you wont get very far adn will pull your hair out.

 

proper vacume synch is worth every penny. around here besides maintenance its the #1 problem i see

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Well i was adjusting the right screw it turns out but the problem is that my idle screws are not the same. one has a sharper point than the other and has more threads for the locknut to thread out on the screw. The other one's threads stop 1/8" from the head so i can't turn it in enough to sync up the carbs. I can sync them just fine if I take the lock nut off the one though. ugh

 

I'm thinking I can just file down the carb on one side so that the screw will reach in farther. Sound like a good idea?

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for $8 each just get new ones instead of trying to file the carbs down... get these from Jeff

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=359

Well i was adjusting the right screw it turns out but the problem is that my idle screws are not the same. one has a sharper point than the other and has more threads for the locknut to thread out on the screw. The other one's threads stop 1/8" from the head so i can't turn it in enough to sync up the carbs. I can sync them just fine if I take the lock nut off the one though. ugh

 

I'm thinking I can just file down the carb on one side so that the screw will reach in farther. Sound like a good idea?

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for $8 each just get new ones instead of trying to file the carbs down... get these from Jeff

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=359

 

 

This would be an idea Sootman unless you already have these screws. If you do have them then Yes you need to take those Idle screws out and do some more filing. I think the instructions said you should have 3/4" from the Carburator cylinder out to where the screw starts to screw in. I think I filed mine till I had 5/8" and it works great.

 

Also if you have to do more filing make sure you don't get any shaving's inside the Carb's.

Edited by Poolman
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I have one from Fast which is the one i need to file down. I cant seem to find the other one I bought :confused: Plus tomorrow is opening day at bundy hill so were leaving at 7am. Not enough time to ship a screw from kansas. lol I just filed it down and i should be good to go but gotta wait until tomorrow to sync it up as i'd rather not see the cops here again <_<

 

Poolman thanks alot for your help in getting this right! :headbang:

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wow what a difference that made! the powerband came on so much faster which really helped around the banked turns in the woods trails at bundy hill.

 

Thanks again poolman for helping me to get this straightened out.

 

 

Your welcome Sootman !, I'm really glad you got things on your Banshee worked out ;)

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