bryan b Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Howdy all, im a newbee here. got my 1st 1997 shee last weekend. it was a basket case. Guy took it apart to put crank seals in it and i guess ran out of cash. got it cheap. bike is in good shape. I took the motor apart and replaced all the seals and stuff and inspected everything. Has less than 10 hrs on the 66 mm bore job and weisco pistons. machine shop said there was 5 thousands clearance on pistons/cylinders so i slapped it all back together and gotter fired up last night. Seems to run fine and started on the 4th kick. My problem is it wont idle and i have to give it a little throttle to get it to start. once you give it some gas she fires up on 2nd or 3rd kick. it seems a little sluggish also. I have cleaned the carbs. The motor had been sitting apart since November 2011 so its been in a box for bout 5 months or so. Still has tors but they are un plugged. I am not good with 2 strokes yet. Where would you start on this. i plan to get rid of the TORS at some point. Has new plugs gaped at 30, fresh 91 octane 32:1 mix with synthetic oil, new crank seals, new rings and pretty well be new bore job and timing is set at +4 . i do not know the jet size. he said he was riding it like it was and the crank seal was barely leaking. Said it would loose 1/2 lb of pressure in 6 min on a pressure test. He also did the plug chop to set his jetting and said it was close to spot on. So any ideas where to start here? Has fmf gold series fatty pipes also. carbs are factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan b Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Also, is a 2-1 carb set up worth the $$ and if so whats the best kit to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Double check the pilot jet, hold it up to some light and make sure you can see through it (for the idle). Dont waste your money on the 2 into 1 carb other than taking up less room it doesnt offer any power gains. A carb synch tool is a great investment you hold it up to the intake side of the carb and you can make sure both carbs are working the same at idle then partial throttle. Make sure the crossover tube is in place between both carbs and you didnt switch the slides when you put it back together. Just some things to start with. A leak down test on your rebuild is also a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan b Posted March 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Double check the pilot jet, hold it up to some light and make sure you can see through it (for the idle). Dont waste your money on the 2 into 1 carb other than taking up less room it doesnt offer any power gains. A carb synch tool is a great investment you hold it up to the intake side of the carb and you can make sure both carbs are working the same at idle then partial throttle. Make sure the crossover tube is in place between both carbs and you didnt switch the slides when you put it back together. Just some things to start with. A leak down test on your rebuild is also a good idea. thanks for the info. Is there a thread on here on the leak down test or how to build a carb sync tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 go to ebay and type dual carb synchrometer its 29$, use the search and youll find the info on the leak down tester. Parts can be obtained from ace just plug the exhaust openings and one intake and on the other intake put a gauge to fill it up with air... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticktock Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 My leak down tester is 19 bucks from home depot. Test block for plumbing, 2 x fernco's with plugs, 1 3/4 x 4" black iron nipple the 3/4 x1 bushing and 3/4 plug. Works great! Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan b Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Thanks for the info here. I found the leak down tester thread and i can build that pretty cheap. I do kinda feel stupid tho. I figured out what was wrong with it. One of them things i got in a hurry and didn't pay attention. im kinda embarrassed to even say this but i had the TORs mix matched to the carbs so the plunger and needle were in backwards per say. Yes its possible and yes it will run like that just wont idle and runs real sluggish. I feel DUMB after i noticed what i did. But hey it runs awesome now!! BUT, whats the secret to getting these things to shift smooth? or shift at all? I am use to a 400ex, This one seems like it wont shift until you let off the throttle almost completely so the engine winds down. once you do that it will shift fine. if your trying to really get after it and shift quick it wont do it at all. it will just stay in that gear. Shifts a little better not using the clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan b Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 is this the correct carb sync tool? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-WEBER-DELLORTO-DUAL-CARB-SYNCHROMETER-TOOL-EMPI-/400279359763?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d32825113&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandking Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Correct tool, for shifting if the shift shaft is bent or if the clutch basket had grooves its not going to shift well. The shift star mod also helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan b Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Ok here is a question in regards to the hard shifting. When i put the clutch back together, the book called for a O-Ring that is called a cushion ring. I couldn't find this o-ring int he box of parts the motor came in. Talked to local shop and they said they didn't have one but to go ahead and put it together that most places just throw them away and they are not needed. Is this correct or is my shift problem coming from a $5.00 o-ring that's not int here? i know it cant be the whole prob but possibly a little bit of the issue? Im gonna take it apart tonight and check out all my shifting components again and make sure all the clearance are what they are suppose to be but was wondering about this o_ring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 No forget that oring you don't need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
11AGUY Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 is this the correct carb sync tool? http://www.ebay.com/...2825113&vxp=mtr get the tool from Jeff from F.A.S.T..... great guy and will help you out in a heartbeat if you have questions..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.