cline Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 Alright guys heres the deal. I am getting real close to getting in touch with HJR with my parts list / ideas about where I want to go with my banshee but I was wondering what you all think about this or if anyone else has ever thought like this......... I'm pretty sure my build is going to cost somewhere in the ball park of $2000-2500 but I have never disassembled / reassembled the motor before and I'm tired of not knowing how so it's my time to learn. I am mechanically enclined, already have a clymers manual, and have taken the shee completely apart (minus motor) at least 4 times to change bent frame. The motor runs fine right now so I was thinking about disassembling it then reassembling it as it sits right now just for practice to see if I can successfully accomplish it. My reasoning would be to avoid screwing it up and it costing me $2500. Anyone else ever do this before? When I do this can I reuse everything (gaskets, seals, bearings, bendable lock washers, ect. ) or does someone want to make me a parts list on what I would have to replace at a minimum to accomplish this type of rebuild. I also have a pro design cool head installed with 21cc domes. Can I reuse the o-rings it the head? Thanks BHQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayAiken Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 With the cool head yeah you can pull the motor out pull the head off and pull the cylinders off. You will probably need to buy a new base gasket though as far as the cases i wouldnt rip them apart for just practice. Your best bet would to be have all the new parts next to u head out there early on a weekend take it all apart and watch what you do taking it apart pull out alll the stuff your replacing drop in the new and start re assembling. I would ask Kevin exactly what you will need for gaskets and seals. The motors are not complicated at all really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 With the cool head yeah you can pull the motor out pull the head off and pull the cylinders off. You will probably need to buy a new base gasket though as far as the cases i wouldnt rip them apart for just practice. Your best bet would to be have all the new parts next to u head out there early on a weekend take it all apart and watch what you do taking it apart pull out alll the stuff your replacing drop in the new and start re assembling. I would ask Kevin exactly what you will need for gaskets and seals. The motors are not complicated at all really. Thats what I keep hearing and I have replaced the top end before and to tell you the truth that was simple. I also have viewed the bottom end assembly in the tech info section, I think that using that along with the manual I should be good but theres just a couple things that worry me. I see guys in here all the time having trouble with the clutch and the trans during rebuild and it would kill me if I wrecked my new motor. Does anyone else think my practice idea is stupid? Has everyone else just made it happen on their first expensive build with new parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Practice makes perfect but if it ain't broke don't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S10RACER Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Practice makes perfect but if it ain't broke don't fix it. X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 Thats what I keep hearing and I have replaced the top end before and to tell you the truth that was simple. I also have viewed the bottom end assembly in the tech info section, I think that using that along with the manual I should be good but theres just a couple things that worry me. I see guys in here all the time having trouble with the clutch and the trans during rebuild and it would kill me if I wrecked my new motor. Does anyone else think my practice idea is stupid? Has everyone else just made it happen on their first expensive build with new parts? when you get into the cases you'll laugh at how little the amount of stuff that is in there. 2 trans shafts and a crank are the large items. Alot of people get into trouble with the trans because they either dont lube it when they put it together (which makes it bind until fluid gets in there) or forget that these trans suck when it comes to shifting......you MUST be spinning the trans to get it to shift. i remember the first time i ripped cases apart......i just took my time and everything went fine. just make sure to clean the parts throughly and lube everything when your reassembling. LUBE LUBE LUBE....and you'll do fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 when you get into the cases you'll laugh at how little the amount of stuff that is in there. 2 trans shafts and a crank are the large items. Alot of people get into trouble with the trans because they either dont lube it when they put it together (which makes it bind until fluid gets in there) or forget that these trans suck when it comes to shifting......you MUST be spinning the trans to get it to shift. i remember the first time i ripped cases apart......i just took my time and everything went fine. just make sure to clean the parts throughly and lube everything when your reassembling. LUBE LUBE LUBE....and you'll do fine. Alright guys sounds good. With your advise I feel much better. My last question is this........All the advise is to take it slow, and I plan to do this and probably take pictures so I reinstall everything as it was when I removed it......This being said is there a recommended gear that I should have the trans in for disassembly ( 1-N-2-3 )? Thanks for the help / advise guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Overdose Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 If you want there is a really good bottom end teardown walk though I think as a sticky in the tech section its really easy and has lots of great color photos to help ya out. If you are gonna teardown your motor completely I recomend spending a couple of bucks and buy the new loking tabs dont reuse the old ones they can get kinda brittle and break when they have been bent a couple of times. It's cheap insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 If you want there is a really good bottom end teardown walk though I think as a sticky in the tech section its really easy and has lots of great color photos to help ya out. If you are gonna teardown your motor completely I recomend spending a couple of bucks and buy the new loking tabs dont reuse the old ones they can get kinda brittle and break when they have been bent a couple of times. It's cheap insurance. Yeah I plan on replaceing everything that needs to be replaced but not having taken it apart yet I won't know for sure what I need until then so thanks for the tip on the locking tabs. I have thoroughly viewed the bottom end assembly just was curious if you guys disassemble in a cretain gear then reassemble in the same gear or if this is even possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 9, 2012 Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 It doesn't matter what gear. When I first took one of these apart I actually played with the shifter to see how it worked. I would spin the drum and watch the forks follow the channels. Really simple design actually. But it'll give you a good understanding as to what's going on in your motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2012 It doesn't matter what gear. When I first took one of these apart I actually played with the shifter to see how it worked. I would spin the drum and watch the forks follow the channels. Really simple design actually. But it'll give you a good understanding as to what's going on in your motor. makes sense. thanks for all the input guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 just use ziplock bags and a sharpie to mark bolts/hardware while your disassembling. Also use a atv specific flywheel puller that screws into the flywheel.....jaw type pullers will bend your flywheel. And to get the clutch hub off i use the motion pro clutch tool that also has the nubs on the backside (cost me about $23). The tool works for both removing the flywheel nut and the clutch nut. things that may save you time..... -Use either a strap wrench or the motion pro tool to hold the flywheel and clutch to get the nuts loose.... -There is a half moon bearing retainnig BEHIND all the clutch crap that holds the two case halves together also.......so don'ttry and split the cases without taking the clutch all the way off. -make sure to lube everything when your reassembling the guts.....i use 2 stroke oil on the crank and my trans fluid on everything that is for the trans... -if your putting in a new clutch.....soak your clutch fibers in your trans fluid they will expand slightly).....then adjust them afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 just use ziplock bags and a sharpie to mark bolts/hardware while your disassembling. Also use a atv specific flywheel puller that screws into the flywheel.....jaw type pullers will bend your flywheel. And to get the clutch hub off i use the motion pro clutch tool that also has the nubs on the backside (cost me about $23). The tool works for both removing the flywheel nut and the clutch nut. things that may save you time..... -Use either a strap wrench or the motion pro tool to hold the flywheel and clutch to get the nuts loose.... -There is a half moon bearing retainnig BEHIND all the clutch crap that holds the two case halves together also.......so don'ttry and split the cases without taking the clutch all the way off. -make sure to lube everything when your reassembling the guts.....i use 2 stroke oil on the crank and my trans fluid on everything that is for the trans... -if your putting in a new clutch.....soak your clutch fibers in your trans fluid they will expand slightly).....then adjust them afterwards. Now thats some good info!!! Thanks for the tips and advise. I have caught on to some of the tools needed from checking out these forums and was aware that I needed the clutch holder and a fly wheel holder but didn't know about the motion pro tool that does them both. I appreciate the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted March 10, 2012 Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 I always had luck with an impact gun. Just zap it in one shot. ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH FOR REASSEMBLY!! Follow the pattern in the manual. Other then that, this is one of the easiest engines to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cline Posted March 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2012 I always had luck with an impact gun. Just zap it in one shot. ALWAYS USE A TORQUE WRENCH FOR REASSEMBLY!! Follow the pattern in the manual. Other then that, this is one of the easiest engines to work on. By the way this brings up a question I was thinking about. Just watching some videos and looking through the manual I have seen torque specs between 20 and 60 ftlbs. What is the largest torque spec required on the banshee. I don't have a torque wrench and before I get one was wondering if there is a favorable one among the group. What ftlb range should the wrench I purchase have? Do you guys recommend a 3/8 or 1/2 drive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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