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when the plug wires are pulled during rev the engine is suppost to shut down right ???

I have a banshee and one side of the pipes is getting hotter than the other... I pulled the hot side wire plug while in rev and the engine shut down normal right...

well, when I pulled the colder side during rev the bike keeps running ??? :confused:

You fellers have anything like that happen to your banshees ???

Please let me know... Im to the point where Im about to pull the cdi. any suggestions fellas ?

Thanks!

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Sounds like a bad air leak on the side that's getting hot. You need to find the leak, and fast, before you damage the top end.

I did the leak down test it turned out good, I switched plug wires same symptoms,I switched plugs nothing! I checked the carbs nada! I tried the coils from other banshee no dice!

IS IT ELECTRICAL SINCE PULLING THE COOLER SIDE PLUG NOT SHUTTING THE ENGINE DOWN ?

Edited by streetplatoon
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Dieseling or engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered internal combustion engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark.

 

Dieseling is so-named because it is similar in appearance to how diesel engines operate: by firing without a spark. The ignition source in a diesel is the compression of the fuel in the cylinder, rather than a spark as in gasoline engines. The dieseling phenomenon occurs not because the compression ratio is sufficient to cause auto-ignition of the fuel, but a hot spot inside the cylinder starts combustion. An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter, then gradually stop.

 

It's either starved for fuel, or there is an air leak. Are the crank seals, carb boots, and all gaskets in good shape? If you're running a boost bottle, chances are, it's a bad carb boot. If all of this is good, then pull the carb on the hot side, clean it, and be sure to remove the pilot, and main jet. Clean them really good, then replace them.

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Dieseling or engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered internal combustion engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark.

 

Dieseling is so-named because it is similar in appearance to how diesel engines operate: by firing without a spark. The ignition source in a diesel is the compression of the fuel in the cylinder, rather than a spark as in gasoline engines. The dieseling phenomenon occurs not because the compression ratio is sufficient to cause auto-ignition of the fuel, but a hot spot inside the cylinder starts combustion. An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter, then gradually stop.

 

It's either starved for fuel, or there is an air leak. Are the crank seals, carb boots, and all gaskets in good shape? If you're running a boost bottle, chances are, it's a bad carb boot. If all of this is good, then pull the carb on the hot side, clean it, and be sure to remove the pilot, and main jet. Clean them really good, then replace them.

i could bet its starved for fuel!

i had the same problem with my lawn mower few years ago,it turns out my fuel tank was rusty and because it didn't had a fuel filter the piece of rust partially clogged the carb and it got far more rpms than it normally has

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Maybe it isnt even running on the cold side. No heat, no fire, no change when the plug wire is pulled.

 

 

 

Have the carbs been synced? That is the first thing I would check. Make sure you use a sync tool not your eyeball.

I synced the stock carbs with the window slide... how is the sync tool used with aftermarket carb boots ?

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Dieseling or engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered internal combustion engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark.

 

Dieseling is so-named because it is similar in appearance to how diesel engines operate: by firing without a spark. The ignition source in a diesel is the compression of the fuel in the cylinder, rather than a spark as in gasoline engines. The dieseling phenomenon occurs not because the compression ratio is sufficient to cause auto-ignition of the fuel, but a hot spot inside the cylinder starts combustion. An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter, then gradually stop.

 

It's either starved for fuel, or there is an air leak. Are the crank seals, carb boots, and all gaskets in good shape? If you're running a boost bottle, chances are, it's a bad carb boot. If all of this is good, then pull the carb on the hot side, clean it, and be sure to remove the pilot, and main jet. Clean them really good, then replace them.

 

I did a leak down test and came out good...I'll doit again to double check

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Dieseling or engine run-on is a condition that can occur in spark plug, gasoline powered internal combustion engines, whereby the engine keeps running for a short period after being turned off, due to fuel igniting without a spark.

 

Dieseling is so-named because it is similar in appearance to how diesel engines operate: by firing without a spark. The ignition source in a diesel is the compression of the fuel in the cylinder, rather than a spark as in gasoline engines. The dieseling phenomenon occurs not because the compression ratio is sufficient to cause auto-ignition of the fuel, but a hot spot inside the cylinder starts combustion. An automobile engine that is dieseling will typically sputter, then gradually stop.

 

It's either starved for fuel, or there is an air leak. Are the crank seals, carb boots, and all gaskets in good shape? If you're running a boost bottle, chances are, it's a bad carb boot. If all of this is good, then pull the carb on the hot side, clean it, and be sure to remove the pilot, and main jet. Clean them really good, then replace them.

good info right here ! thanks.... it was a weak spark from an old rusty plug boot, switched it and now shee's happy again!

Thanks for the break down fellas!

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Sweet! Glad it was something simple brother. Now you know you have no air leaks!! The only other thing now it to check compression. Drops below 100 or more than 5 psi difference per cylinder warrents a rebuild. Enjoy the shee man

 

Adam

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