jamebo Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I've got to remove my flywheel to inspect the stator. I have an impact for removing the nut and a threaded puller, but assume I'll need to hold the wheel when I go to torque the nut back down. I notice there are two general types of holders, the vise grip kind for the holes, and the strap wrench. Which one works the best, or does it really matter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheerider11 Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I have have the motion pro puller. Cost me14 bucks at the dealership. Remove the nut reverse thread it in and tighten til the fly wheel pops off. Doing use anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 I have a threaded puller, but looking for the best type of flywheel holder for when I torque the nut back on. I've seen some on eBay for around forty bucks that insert into the holes on the flywheel, but wondering if I can get away with just using a strap wrench like they sell at Sears to keep it from turning while I torque it back down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 The holder isn't necessary. YOu don't have to use a tq wrench manually, just use the impact and tighten the heck out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Sounds good, guys. I wasn't sure how important the torque specs were, but I guess it's just to insure the nut doesn't back off. The impact wrench should be insurance enough, then lol. I'll dab some blue thread locker on and impact her down. Thanks for the replies everybody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Sounds good, guys. I wasn't sure how important the torque specs were, but I guess it's just to insure the nut doesn't back off. The impact wrench should be insurance enough, then lol. I'll dab some blue thread locker on and impact her down. Thanks for the replies everybody. Once you remove the nut,you will not need it again until you put the flywheel back on.The correct puller threads into the flywheel in reverse.So lube the threads and install the puller in as far as you can with a cresant or channel locks or you could pull the threads out.Once installed i use a impact so no need for a holder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Once you remove the nut,you will not need it again until you put the flywheel back on.The correct puller threads into the flywheel in reverse.So lube the threads and install the puller in as far as you can with a cresant or channel locks or you could pull the threads out.Once installed i use a impact so no need for a holder. Thanks sstaton, I'll be pulling it tomorrow. Think my stator is bad, so I may not be putting the flywheel back on till a replacement stator comes in. I checked it with a multimeter, and it read good at 18.1.. but I think it could possibly still be bad. I have spark, but not consistantly. I removed the stator cover and peeped through the holes in the flywheel at the stator, and one of the poles has some burnt looking dark discoloration on it. I'm thinking it may have broken or shorted out wires in it, but I'll know for sure tomorrow when I get the flywheel off and have a good look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 watch your reinstall tq on the gun you dont need 500ft lbs of slamming tq to get it on. you will just strip the nut or stretch/break the crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted February 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 watch your reinstall tq on the gun you dont need 500ft lbs of slamming tq to get it on. you will just strip the nut or stretch/break the crank Roger that, cam. I'll set the impact on the first setting, which is 170 lbs if I remember right, and just give it a couple good jolts. Your right about that, I sure as heck don't want to damage the crank on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted February 25, 2012 Report Share Posted February 25, 2012 Roger that, cam. I'll set the impact on the first setting, which is 170 lbs if I remember right, and just give it a couple good jolts. Your right about that, I sure as heck don't want to damage the crank on it! I prefer to use a torque wrench on all my engine fasteners. Never had anything thattorqued properly come loose nor have I stripped or broken any expensive parts(crank). If you get the one that goes in the holes it will also work to hold the clutch hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted February 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 I prefer to use a torque wrench on all my engine fasteners. Never had anything thattorqued properly come loose nor have I stripped or broken any expensive parts(crank). If you get the one that goes in the holes it will also work to hold the clutch hub. I think I am going to order one of those, sounds like a very useful tool. I ended up removing the wheel and inspecting the stator, but the dark stuff I saw on it turned out to be some kind of glue or something. I could buff it off with a rag, so I guess it wasn't burnt after all. Had some problems with my compressor not being big enough for the impact, it did finally remove the nut.. but I decided to torque it down with a torque wrench just to be sure to get it tight enough. Used a strap wrench, but learned the hard way about busted knuckles with those, lol. Sorry I didn't reply sooner, but went to the Daytona 500 over the weekend. Sat all day in the rain yesterday only for them to postpone it till today. Which I can't attend because I have to work. Guess you win some and some you lose, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 I think I am going to order one of those, sounds like a very useful tool. I ended up removing the wheel and inspecting the stator, but the dark stuff I saw on it turned out to be some kind of glue or something. I could buff it off with a rag, so I guess it wasn't burnt after all. Had some problems with my compressor not being big enough for the impact, it did finally remove the nut.. but I decided to torque it down with a torque wrench just to be sure to get it tight enough. Used a strap wrench, but learned the hard way about busted knuckles with those, lol. Sorry I didn't reply sooner, but went to the Daytona 500 over the weekend. Sat all day in the rain yesterday only for them to postpone it till today. Which I can't attend because I have to work. Guess you win some and some you lose, lol. If I had tickets to the 500, I'd be calling in sick!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 Thanks sstaton, I'll be pulling it tomorrow. Think my stator is bad, so I may not be putting the flywheel back on till a replacement stator comes in. I checked it with a multimeter, and it read good at 18.1.. but I think it could possibly still be bad. I have spark, but not consistantly. I removed the stator cover and peeped through the holes in the flywheel at the stator, and one of the poles has some burnt looking dark discoloration on it. I'm thinking it may have broken or shorted out wires in it, but I'll know for sure tomorrow when I get the flywheel off and have a good look at it. i dont know if you have pulled the fly wheel yet,but you should check your pick up coil gap.i think its around .018 if i remember right.my gap was to big and my bike would not spark unless you pull started it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted February 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 @ bansheesandrider, Though tempting, with the job I have it's very important for me to be there.. there are not enough operators to cover for me. Also my boss knew where I was at and that the race was postponed, lol. sstaton It checked out at .20 with a feeler gauge, so it's pretty close. Do you think it would help if I closed the gap a little more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted February 29, 2012 Report Share Posted February 29, 2012 @ bansheesandrider, Though tempting, with the job I have it's very important for me to be there.. there are not enough operators to cover for me. Also my boss knew where I was at and that the race was postponed, lol. sstaton It checked out at .20 with a feeler gauge, so it's pretty close. Do you think it would help if I closed the gap a little more? i would go between .15 and .18. .20 is to wide imo.Oh and check the gap at both square tabs on the flywheel i have seen some variance in different flywheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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