yosteff Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Hi everyone! First post on your great forum. So here is the problem. 2001 banshee start fine and rev good with both cylindre. After a couple of second the right cylindre quit firing??? I clean and retighted the wire leading to the coil (orange and black) . I replaced the right spark plug with a new one and swapped to an other coil and wire and it still doing the same... So it start on the first crank rev good for 2 to 5 seconde Then the right cylindre quitfiring but the bike still running on one cylindre Help me !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 fuel getting to the carb ok? jet getting clogged up maybe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticktock Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Welcome to the forum! Does it run on both cylinders with the choke on? I also suggest cleaning your carbs, do them one at a time as they are different with different pieces in each. Then try again. Also check your flywheel to make sure the two magnets on the outside of the flywheel are clean and shinny. Check pickup gap too .020 or the thickness of a matchbook cover. You can download a manual from my Sig. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98_shee Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Does it backfire on the right cylinder, are you sure its getting fuel to that side, have you cleaned your carbs? Check pickup coil gap. Swap your plug wires and see if the problem stays on the same side. Do a compression and leak down test on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandman125 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 does it still have the thors? if so unplug them and the wire to the thors black box under the tank. and try all those other things sugjested as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosteff Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I try the bike again after my first post and it was going fine.. so i rev it up and the left side started to cut and backfire.. i let it idle some time and try puting some chock and it was changing a bit but after some more idling the right side stop firering! I remove the carb and reed valve. Is it normal that the metal part of the reedvalve have a greenish coating or it is varnish? . I dinth use it a lost in the last year .. anyway i cleened the reed valve and will do the carb tomorow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosteff Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 does it still have the thors? if so unplug them and the wire to the thors black box under the tank. and try all those other things sugjested as well Yes they are still on i try this already and nothing changed!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VoOK Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 I'm having the same issue with mine, both cylinders fire up then 2-3 seconds afterward the left cylinder stops firing. I cleaned the carbs, reeds were perfect, changed plugs, swapped wires and still left cylinder is failing. I guess a compression test is next. Wish me luck. I'll report back once the test is done (crossing fingers). My bike is a 2006, ported, milled head, VF3's, T6's, stock carbs, +4 timing, bored .20 over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosteff Posted February 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Yes hope you can find it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98_shee Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Check for cracks in your intake boots you could have an air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VoOK Posted February 19, 2012 Report Share Posted February 19, 2012 Check for cracks in your intake boots you could have an air leak. Checked that too........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VoOK Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Ok, so I got it running, seems one of the hoses that feed fuel to the carbs was pinched, I have no freakin clue how. I can't believe I didn't notice I am so glad I don't have to spend money fixing anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yosteff Posted February 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 Ok, so I got it running, seems one of the hoses that feed fuel to the carbs was pinched, I have no freakin clue how. I can't believe I didn't notice I am so glad I don't have to spend money fixing anything. Cool the carbs are out and about to clean them... I will look at the hose when rebuild it to make sure... Hope that's just that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mav.Garon Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 My banshee is having similar problems lately. For me it is also the Right cylinder that is refusing to run. After warming it up and going for a test ride I returned to my shop and tested the pipes. Left side running good-330' or so on the left, 50' on the right. I doubt spark is the problem, I swapped plugs, caps, coils etc with no change. Plus I can see spark when I test it. Occasionally it has power when I am higher in the rpm range, but it is intermittent. It also runs better at idle when the choke is half out but above 1/4 throttle this causes power loss. I believe my problem is somewhere in the pilot circuit, and I think my next move will also be to reclean the carb. This is really when the TORS removal kit pays off, its wayyyy easier to pull the carbs now. I am wondering however-If the pilot was clogged, why didnt it run on both cylinders at WOT (maybe it did occasionally?) Shouldn't both pipes have gotten hot if it was running on the main jet? When I pull the Right plug it is definitely wet. It does not look like crankcase oil (I run ATF so it should be obvious if the crankseal is shot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mav.Garon Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 My banshee is having similar problems lately. For me it is also the Right cylinder that is refusing to run. After warming it up and going for a test ride I returned to my shop and tested the pipes. Left side running good-330' or so on the left, 50' on the right. I doubt spark is the problem, I swapped plugs, caps, coils etc with no change. Plus I can see spark when I test it. Occasionally it has power when I am higher in the rpm range, but it is intermittent. It also runs better at idle when the choke is half out but above 1/4 throttle this causes power loss. I believe my problem is somewhere in the pilot circuit, and I think my next move will also be to reclean the carb. This is really when the TORS removal kit pays off, its wayyyy easier to pull the carbs now. I am wondering however-If the pilot was clogged, why didnt it run on both cylinders at WOT (maybe it did occasionally?) Shouldn't both pipes have gotten hot if it was running on the main jet? When I pull the Right plug it is definitely wet. It does not look like crankcase oil (I run ATF so it should be obvious if the crankseal is shot) update: tested today and had same problem as before. Idled well and ran on right cylinder with choke out. Nothing on right without choke, any rpm. Pulled carbs and swapped float needles and floats. set height at 21 mm +-.5mm immediately ran better and idled. could pull 6th gear easily and ran on both cylinders. New problem-leaking out of overflow on that carb. Needle holds when tested for leaks, must be a incorrect height? old float was wayyy higher but didnt leak... May start another post if problem persists Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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