Coupelx Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 what does a photo of a failed beaing prove ? absolutely nothin. many failures can be traced back to the operator in some way. we need the entire story to even have a chance of determining if it was a failure of the bearing or failure of the operator or failure of some other internal part that caused a chain reaction to the bearing. was it overloaded with power and trq ? was the rpm ceiling exceeded ? did it have sufficient lubrication ? was it side loaded when the cases were assembled? detontation could have jack hammered it apart. the list is endless as to what could of happened. then theres the remote chance the bearing just had a factory flaw. i posted a link that showed many instances where caged ball bearings were failing, and my theory is because they were put under to much load. and the reason i have that theory is because a roller bearing was issued as its replacement. maybe you just exceeded its breaking point some how and should have used a different kind of bearing ? im confident skf is every bit as good as anything else on the market but use what ever you feel comfortable with. if your piston seizes dont go back to wiseco crying. i think you get the point bike was a stock port stock stroke turdsammich with t5's running on castor927. no idea why it failed but once was enough for me. notice it was the stator side too. sure it could have been a 1 in a million chance but i cant recommend anyone run one. Again spend a little time in a bearing catalog. i said what i did for the reason. also as far as the price difference, its negligible so theres no reason not to get the good shit the first time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOODRAGE Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 i know once i get this ss together and running its going to be on the back of my mind "are these main bearings gunna explode" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 just be sure to use koyo cuz theyre the bestest . but really i got skf still going fine that are probly older than some of the members here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I am building a 10mil trail motor with maybe 80hp. I was seriously considering using just the stock bearings should I be worried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ticktock Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I am building a 10mil trail motor with maybe 80hp. I was seriously considering using just the stock bearings should I be worried? Define stock bearing... Max load on clutch side at a min is what I was recommended. Are you running Helical Gears or Straight Cuts? Talk to the builder you are getting your crank from. That is always recommended. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Define stock bearing... Max load on clutch side at a min is what I was recommended. Are you running Helical Gears or Straight Cuts? Talk to the builder you are getting your crank from. That is always recommended. Adam Was planning on straight cuts and the stock bearings, but stock I mean um stock lol What are they 7 ball or something I think. Straight cuts are killing me- they are so expensive for what you get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted July 2, 2013 Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 tz the drive side. you will be fine.. i have a tz in my 535 with straight cut/ hinson spring loaded basket. the bearing is not stressed in or out it has been running hard as hell for over 5 years now. and i dont pussy foot it it gets beat on. run tz/ roller style on ALL the larger builds and hell even most 350's anymore. usually run max or the 8 ball'z on the flywheel side.. most of those are running the helical stock style drive gears. i have seen bearings on both sides fail but after removing the crank most of the cranks were WAY out of factory specs for true. and most were seperating. that has to put side load on the bearing pretty hard.. i think i have a few pics of one of them hell it split the cage right down the middle. that was a cool one! so for a sumary. my personal experience is use a roler on the drive side, use a larger pto bearing. and make sure your center bearings are nice and tight and the crank's runouot is very spot on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickisGod Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 keeping the thread alive even though ive posted this to my build thread. poor tz. it sat on a shelf for about 11 years untill i mustard up the balls to open up the cases. well here it is. i advise staying far away from this bearing. just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted June 17, 2021 Report Share Posted June 17, 2021 Now I’m worried. Motor hasn’t been ran but I did a TZ on the PTO sideSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 Fock them things! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKEETER Posted June 18, 2021 Report Share Posted June 18, 2021 What ^ is referring to, is these junk bikes in general and/or working on shit instead of B & H's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted June 19, 2021 Report Share Posted June 19, 2021 Beginning late 2006 due to light detonation at the stripe and cracking the outer races of two different brand ball bearings I started running NTN TZ's on both ends of my 1/4 mile alcohol cub cranks (with straight cuts). I've always done yearly tear down inspection/rebuilds and every single time I end up replacing the TZ's because of brown coloring which I assumed was heat generated from roller skid. I've not run for a few years now but if I ever go back I'm going with 8 ball Koyo. The TZ's are rugged but they have a lot higher rolling resistance and just can't take the quick acceleration and sustained 11,000+ rpm of our drag motors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 On 6/19/2021 at 12:57 PM, Tedder said: Beginning late 2006 due to light detonation at the stripe and cracking the outer races of two different brand ball bearings I started running NTN TZ's on both ends of my 1/4 mile alcohol cub cranks (with straight cuts). I've always done yearly tear down inspection/rebuilds and every single time I end up replacing the TZ's because of brown coloring which I assumed was heat generated from roller skid. I've not run for a few years now but if I ever go back I'm going with 8 ball Koyo. The TZ's are rugged but they have a lot higher rolling resistance and just can't take the quick acceleration and sustained 11,000+ rpm of our drag motors. did u use c3 ? otherwise it should be good to atleast 14k so over speeding i dont think was a problem. is the yellow cages brass? i used the plastic ones on other engines and never was any trouble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tedder Posted June 22, 2021 Report Share Posted June 22, 2021 NTN 305E NJ305EGIC3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
registered user Posted June 23, 2021 Report Share Posted June 23, 2021 just wondering. why were you using a different bearing on both sides ? normally when the inner race has to be pressed on a shaft and the outer bearing is pressed in a bore or has a clamping force applied, c3 is preferable as there likely wont be sufficient clearance between inner race/rollers/outer race. i could see the 305e skidding rollers if it wasnt c3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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