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water pump issues? aftermarket needed?


11AGUY

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I'm in the process of rebuilding my banshee and just wondering how many people have actually had or heard of the impeller and/or plastic driven gear failing?? I have a completely stock engine and will be doing mostly trail riding (not sure if that matters....). I took it apart and upon inspection everything looks fine.... Should I just replace the plastic driven gear because its 8 years old with another plastic, replace it with an aluminum from MULL or do both impeller and gear from MULL....

 

Opinions appreciated....

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i use the stock impeller and believe there's a reason their plastic. imagine if a metal one fails the carnage it can bring. i recently took apart one that had a billet on missing half the fins who knows where the shrapnel went. but my stockers been running strong for 11 years.

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i use the stock impeller and believe there's a reason their plastic. imagine if a metal one fails the carnage it can bring. i recently took apart one that had a billet on missing half the fins who knows where the shrapnel went. but my stockers been running strong for 11 years.

 

+1

 

the impeller doesnt have much to center it other than rubbing on either the clutch cover or the little water pump cover. it 'floats' in the bearing. a better design is needed.

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i use the stock impeller and believe there's a reason their plastic. imagine if a metal one fails the carnage it can bring. i recently took apart one that had a billet on missing half the fins who knows where the shrapnel went. but my stockers been running strong for 11 years.

 

 

Mike, I would be real curious to learn more about a failed billet pump. They will certainly fail if other foreign objects get run through the system though. Anything would fail. One of the main concerns with the plastic pump is overheat protection. Plastic looses strength DRASTICALLY over 200F. I have seen motors pushed to 230F which is enough to kill a plastic pump. We don't like to see engines that hot but it does happen more than people think in trails where there is little air flow.

 

I do agree though that the OEM design is very poor, allowing the pump to float in the housing. Look at a Honda if you want to see a properly designed pump. They don't use plastic either!

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Mike, I would be real curious to learn more about a failed billet pump. They will certainly fail if other foreign objects get run through the system though. Anything would fail. One of the main concerns with the plastic pump is overheat protection. Plastic looses strength DRASTICALLY over 200F. I have seen motors pushed to 230F which is enough to kill a plastic pump. We don't like to see engines that hot but it does happen more than people think in trails where there is little air flow.

 

I do agree though that the OEM design is very poor, allowing the pump to float in the housing. Look at a Honda if you want to see a properly designed pump. They don't use plastic either!

 

how hard would it be to put a step on the shaft that the impeller could bottom out on? maybe secure it with a roll pin in place of the pin that drives the gear?

 

Im not saying that the impeller shouldnt be made of aluminum, just that in a banshee the plastic might be a better option...

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Well, there is a natural tendency for the impeller to push out towards the cover when running. And, the lubricity of Ethylene Glycol is mostly sufficient to buffer large impeller wear on the back. The main issue IMO is the tolerances and the impeller depth being somewhat dependent on the clutch cover. IMO, the whole system should be held captive in the clutch cover.

 

I guess if I were to design it, I would likely use a fork/key drive in the end of the PTO shaft thus run 1:1 with the crank, eliminate the gear all together, and design a pump that uses a mechanical seal with a nut on the shaft to pull the impeller tight in the housing and against the seal.

 

that is all well and good but I doubt anyone would spend the 400 bucks it would take as a conversion kit with new design clutch cover.

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Well, there is a natural tendency for the impeller to push out towards the cover when running. And, the lubricity of Ethylene Glycol is mostly sufficient to buffer large impeller wear on the back. The main issue IMO is the tolerances and the impeller depth being somewhat dependent on the clutch cover. IMO, the whole system should be held captive in the clutch cover.

 

I guess if I were to design it, I would likely use a fork/key drive in the end of the PTO shaft thus run 1:1 with the crank, eliminate the gear all together, and design a pump that uses a mechanical seal with a nut on the shaft to pull the impeller tight in the housing and against the seal.

 

that is all well and good but I doubt anyone would spend the 400 bucks it would take as a conversion kit with new design clutch cover.

 

As long as the clutch cover could be designed with Lock Out option and expanded clutch basket options I think people would pay. Those that are running engines that require lock out, or extra clutch plates would be your target market anyways. We spend 300 on a lockout cover and 600 on a billet cover for extra plates. A water pump that has less of an option to fail seems like icing on the cake.

I don't think that the average banshee motor needs anything more that the billet pump. The average motor is stock ported or 4mil ported stock cylinder. The market for cubs, DM and servals is specific to a smaller portion of all banshee riders.

 

This is just my opinion here

 

Adam

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Ive got the aluminum impellar on the to do list as well and seen i can get a metal gear to drive the pump instead of the nylon stocker is this a good investment while im in there doing the impellar?

Yeah. One time I put my cover on and I didn't realize but the gears hit and I knocked off like 2 or 3 teeth.

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