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4mm or bigger piston bore?


FraireRacing

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Ok guys, I have a stock engine with pretty much evry bolt on there is, besides upgrating the cdi box. I'm basically tired of being the only "actually stock engine" in the "stock" class lol!!! Ironik I know, but heres the thing, I have the ability to either get a set of 66.5 bore cylenders and bore them to 68mm cause i have a set of 68mm pistons. But, now what im basically asking is, will it work well if i have a stock crank and stock rods and just make it a 68mm with all my bolt on's like cool head with 18cc domes, and all my other bolt ons?

 

Or should I just look for a 4mm crank and try to attempt to do a hidden 4mm with my original head, o will it be posible to do it with my cool head if i just cut my 22cc domes?

 

Please let me know some feed back; I would really appreciate it guys

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Ok guys, I have a stock engine with pretty much evry bolt on there is, besides upgrating the cdi box. I'm basically tired of being the only "actually stock engine" in the "stock" class lol!!! Ironik I know, but heres the thing, I have the ability to either get a set of 66.5 bore cylenders and bore them to 68mm cause i have a set of 68mm pistons. But, now what im basically asking is, will it work well if i have a stock crank and stock rods and just make it a 68mm with all my bolt on's like cool head with 18cc domes, and all my other bolt ons?

 

Or should I just look for a 4mm crank and try to attempt to do a hidden 4mm with my original head, o will it be posible to do it with my cool head if i just cut my 22cc domes?

 

Please let me know some feed back; I would really appreciate it guys

You can't bore a stock cylinder to 68mm.

 

Sure, a 68mm CUB would make much more power, but simply boring a 64mm (stock) cylinder to a 66mm, won't make any more noticeable power. Buying 66.5 bore cylinders are basically only worth their weight in scrap aluminum. They are bored beyond what most builders would consider to be "safe". Keep your stock cylinders, have them ported by a good engine builder, and go 4mill.

 

 

Also, you should be shunned for trying to cheat. Dick.

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You can't bore a stock cylinder to 68mm.

 

Sure, a 68mm CUB would make much more power, but simply boring a 64mm (stock) cylinder to a 66mm, won't make any more noticeable power. Buying 66.5 bore cylinders are basically only worth their weight in scrap aluminum. They are bored beyond what most builders would consider to be "safe". Keep your stock cylinders, have them ported by a good engine builder, and go 4mill.

 

 

Also, you should be shunned for trying to cheat. Dick.

 

 

1. Im not trying to cheat, I'm trying get more power to be able to compete. Im pretty much maxed out at a stock engine displacment and theres a lot more mods in the other quads in my class than in mine. I'm honestly just tired of being the only one thats playing by the rules.

 

And if I'm "Shunned" for trying to upgrade my bike then WTF are you doing here? This is a site for banshee lovers that are trying to upgrade their bikes one way or another. I have played by the rules and Im suprisingly the only one still playing by the rules. I'm just asking for advise so dont get me wrong

Edited by FraireRacing
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1. Im not trying to cheat, I'm trying get more power to be able to compete. Im pretty much maxed out at a stock engine displacment and theres a lot more mods in the other quads in my class than in mine. I'm honestly just tired of being the only one thats playing by the rules.

 

And if I'm "Shunned" for trying to upgrade my bike then WTF are you doing here? This is a site for banshee lovers that are trying to upgrade their bikes one way or another. I have played by the rules and Im suprisingly the only one still playing by the rules. I'm just asking for advise so dont get me wrong

Correct me if I'm wrong (Which I may).

 

If you are trying to modify your bike with a "hidden" 4 mil that is AGAINST the rules, what would the definition of that be?

 

What I am doing here, is providing information that potentially saved you from wasting thousands of dollars. You're welcome for saving you from buying junk cylinders thinking they were superior. In addition, I also advised you on which way would be the best route for you to go, all the while, knowing you were going to be using the information to cheat in a sanctioned series. Call me "Honest Abe", but I think you made yourself look poor by openly admitting you are trying to cheat. Regardless if "everyone else" cheats, doesn't mean you need to stoop to their levels and try to be a sneaky cheat. Where is the fun in EVERYONE cheating?

 

It's called a "STOCK" class for a reason. Since EVERYONE else is cheating, I'm sure you could go to the officials and tell them you are the ONLY one still running a stock displacement engine, and every other bike that runs in the stock class would be DQ'd, thus making you the winner in every race you've ever raced. Sounds like you would win by being HONEST...

 

Lastly, yes, anyone who openly admits that they are trying to cheat, should be shunned.

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You can't bore a stock cylinder to 68mm.

 

Sure, a 68mm CUB would make much more power, but simply boring a 64mm (stock) cylinder to a 66mm, won't make any more noticeable power. Buying 66.5 bore cylinders are basically only worth their weight in scrap aluminum. They are bored beyond what most builders would consider to be "safe". Keep your stock cylinders, have them ported by a good engine builder, and go 4mill.

 

 

Also, you should be shunned for trying to cheat. Dick.

 

You can put bigger pistons in stock cylds then 68..... just sayin

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Correct me if I'm wrong (Which I may).

 

If you are trying to modify your bike with a "hidden" 4 mil that is AGAINST the rules, what would the definition of that be?

 

What I am doing here, is providing information that potentially saved you from wasting thousands of dollars. You're welcome for saving you from buying junk cylinders thinking they were superior. In addition, I also advised you on which way would be the best route for you to go, all the while, knowing you were going to be using the information to cheat in a sanctioned series. Call me "Honest Abe", but I think you made yourself look poor by openly admitting you are trying to cheat. Regardless if "everyone else" cheats, doesn't mean you need to stoop to their levels and try to be a sneaky cheat. Where is the fun in EVERYONE cheating?

 

It's called a "STOCK" class for a reason. Since EVERYONE else is cheating, I'm sure you could go to the officials and tell them you are the ONLY one still running a stock displacement engine, and every other bike that runs in the stock class would be DQ'd, thus making you the winner in every race you've ever raced. Sounds like you would win by being HONEST...

 

Lastly, yes, anyone who openly admits that they are trying to cheat, should be shunned.

 

Ok, I meant to get some info or opinion on the cyl from someone that knows what their talking about. I'm trying to get a little more power and be able to compete by not stroking my engine.

 

Although I did meantion a hidden 4mil but because I was told that hidden 4mil would work better and that if I would use my cool head i would get the benifit of the higer compression and still ride it with out the overheating trouble of a stock head. And that it would be better than a regular 4mil because of a spacer in the regular 4 mil or something like that.

 

I was thinking going cub cause everyone heres mentiong great stuff about it, but a friend has some 7 mil dm which he says is better but that I wouldnt be able to ride my banshee out at the dunes anymore.

 

Now if I went that route I would go to the mod class and its all fair game there, So please inlighten me on were i mentioned i wanted to cheat?

 

Oh and on the whole telling on the other guys idea its been done and nothing was done to fix that problem. Turns out that the techs are theones that do the builds for those guys so they dont do anything about it.

Edited by FraireRacing
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Or should I just look for a 4mm crank and try to attempt to do a hidden 4mm with my original head........I think right there is admission of your thinking of trying to cheat. Just sayin.

 

And Matt is right. One of the basics in upgrading a 2 stroke motor is NOT to bore the cylinders. You wont gain enough displacement to achieve any more power. 0.080" to 0.100" are the end of the life of a stock sleeved cylinder. The best bang for your buck is going to be porting, timing, and bigger carbs. Nobody can give you any advise on your current motor because we have no clue what you have. If it is truely stock ported I'd have to guess your running stock carbs. If that's the case you are likely no where near ready to jump on a cub yet. Stock port/stock carbed is likely a 40-50 hp bike at best depending on what else is done to it. A cub can be double that.

 

As for the cheating.....I couldn't give two shits if you cheat or not.......but I would definately call a spade a spade. And just because everyone is a cheat doesn't change the facts.

 

SP

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first off i know what you are talking about i happen to race at that spot as well. The jackass that runs the quads set up the rules in their favor. The stock class only requires that you have stock suspension and no lite weight drag type parts. There are no limits on what can be done to the motor . In my opinion the whole quad thing at this track is a joke. It is basically run what you brung. Even in the modified quad class there are no limits unless certain people think they are going to lose.If i was you i would just build the biggest motor that you think you could handle on stock suspension set up and run the hell out of it and dont say shit lie to everyone like they do . sorry for the rant but thats what i think .

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That's true guys I dint mention what i have. Should've done that from the start.

 

I still have stock 64mmsprings pistons and stock crank. I have a cool head with 18cc domes, I have ported the intake side and the exhaust side but haven't messed around with the inside ports like it should be done. I have some boyesen reeds, 1/2 in reed spacers, an aluminum Y with a 38 keihen pwk carb with a 210 main jet. A k&n filter. No tors, and twist throttle. I have a 98cool yamaha R1 Clutch with hevy duty springs, and a pro design water pump. For exhaust I have the T5's. And I also have a trinity shift cam. I have a 14 tooth front and a 41 tooth rear sprockets. I have a front set of skat mohaks, and a set of 8 paddle skat haulers both on douglas blue label wheels. And an adjustable works nitrogen suspension with resovoirs. And I have an upgraded front suspension that is like 3 or 4in wider

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Or should I just look for a 4mm crank and try to attempt to do a hidden 4mm with my original head........I think right there is admission of your thinking of trying to cheat. Just sayin.

 

And Matt is right. One of the basics in upgrading a 2 stroke motor is NOT to bore the cylinders. You wont gain enough displacement to achieve any more power. 0.080" to 0.100" are the end of the life of a stock sleeved cylinder. The best bang for your buck is going to be porting, timing, and bigger carbs. Nobody can give you any advise on your current motor because we have no clue what you have. If it is truely stock ported I'd have to guess your running stock carbs. If that's the case you are likely no where near ready to jump on a cub yet. Stock port/stock carbed is likely a 40-50 hp bike at best depending on what else is done to it. A cub can be double that.

 

As for the cheating.....I couldn't give two shits if you cheat or not.......but I would definately call a spade a spade. And just because everyone is a cheat doesn't change the facts.

 

SP

 

Look at the post previous to yours

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Yeah not much for racing around here. I thought you guys go to Albq to race supposed to be real nice. But as for someone else cheating if you look at the rules they made up it favors them and their friends. Their bikes are much bigger than they say. I know of a couple of bikes in the stock class that are highly modified but since they have stock swing arm they are stock bikes lol.

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Nope wasted too much of my life on your stupid post already. You obviously don't listen and have done little research on you own.

SP

 

Well then plain and simple butt the F@#* out! If you don't like what I post

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