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No start after top end rebuild


r2nailer

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I have a 99 shee that was a recovered theft.That sat around for a few years.

It was run without premix.

I honed the cylinders and replaced pistons and rings. The rings have an end gap of about .014"

Compression is only at 70 lbs, but the rings havent seated yet either.

If I prime the cylinders it does fire but won't run.

I found vacuum leaks at both reed valve blocks and added gaskets.

But It still won't start.

It doesn't draw in any fuel. I thought the 2 crank seals must have been beat up

so I replaced them also. No joy.

I injected low pressure air into one cylinder, and could see evidence of it in the second cylinder.

So at this point I must ask are the two cylinders isolated from one another like all the sleds I've worked on?

There no indication of a center seal or bearing in any of the part diagrams I'v looked at?

Opinions welcome......

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I have a 99 shee that was a recovered theft.That sat around for a few years.

It was run without premix.

I honed the cylinders and replaced pistons and rings. The rings have an end gap of about .014"

Compression is only at 70 lbs, but the rings havent seated yet either.

If I prime the cylinders it does fire but won't run.

I found vacuum leaks at both reed valve blocks and added gaskets.

But It still won't start.

It doesn't draw in any fuel. I thought the 2 crank seals must have been beat up

so I replaced them also. No joy.

I injected low pressure air into one cylinder, and could see evidence of it in the second cylinder.

So at this point I must ask are the two cylinders isolated from one another like all the sleds I've worked on?

There no indication of a center seal or bearing in any of the part diagrams I'v looked at?

Opinions welcome......

i would throw a new crank in. get one cheap off ebay.

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You say that you honed and replaced the pistons and rings......but did you bore the cylinders? It could be that the jugs were already starting to be out of spec when the thieves burned the motor up.....chances are it isn't starting because you need it bored. They really need more than 100 psi to start.....and even if the rings AREN'T seated yet..l.l.30psi is a lot to make up

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Did you install the pistons with the windows facing the wrong way? They are supposed to face the reeds NOT the exhaust side. 100 psi is about the minimun to get any motor to start. .014 doesnt seem excessive for ring end gap. If it is set up for a different piston like if it has a different crank, stroke, rod combonation you can have probs. There are different dome angles and, pin to crown heights.

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The bores were mic'd about 42.25

The windows were facing the reeds.

I reran the compression test and the carbs were off as well as the pipes

from previous testing and they were just over 100 lbs.

There just seems to be little or no vacuum to draw the fuel in.

But I may be wrong, 95% of my experience is with 4 strokes.

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Your compression (or relative reading from the gauge used) seems low if cylinders are not ported. However, the primary mode of intake function is crankcase vacuum when the piston is going up. In short, the compression does not largely affect fuel draw as much as ring seal and piston clearance.

 

The very first thing I would do is verify you have a schrader valve in the tip of the test gauge insert used. I would also recommend you clean the carbs and/or add some raw fuel to the intake to confirm it wants to run. If it fires up with fuel added, get the carb apart and start there. Inspect the pilots first.

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well I lost my reply so here goes again.

 

My snapon compression tester was in need of service and the compression reading is now 115 and 120.

With no pipes or carbs and only 1 reed block.

 

I had checked the jets previously when I replaced the needle and seat.

But I pulled them apart anyway. I did find some restriction in the orifice of one of the jets, so the carbs

are soaking in the cleaner.

Tomorrow is another day....

Steve

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the emulsion tube is an easy remove/clean/install.

 

Since you messed with the needle/seat, you now have me wondering if the bowls are filling up at all. better check into that. The screw on the bottom of carb is a drain. Float level is likely a non-issue here.

 

Choke are plungers. Need to move freely, and no damage to cross tube that connects them.

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yyup checked the tubes, there good.

Bowls had fuel in them when I pulled them apart, enough? I would think so.

The left cylinder bowl has the extra brass tube right?

 

 

Yep. Do you have the slides in right? They can be reversed right to left which makes the chamfer on the bottom point towards engine. You want them towards the filters.

 

Also TRIPLE check the pilots. I lost count of how many we have fixed. They are tiny and plug easily and they pretty much will not run without.

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