doug Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I know. Please don't shoot. I've got the following setup: Stock Motor Toomey T5 pipes/silencers Boyesen Reeds Durablue Filter with Airbox mod (in factory air box) Stock carbs (clean clean clean & replaced fuel valve because it was slightly worn) Tors removed Jetted: 280 mains 25 pilots Toomey Needle on 4th clip (from threaded end) Air screws 1.5 turns out Conditions: 13 Celcius / 55 Fahrenheit 114 metres (374 feet) above sea level and the bike has a bog & is piling up on one cylinder. I have not done a sync with the carb sync tool yet, but did the visual check. I know this isn't the same, but it's a bitch to take the factory air box off and I really thought the bike would run better than this after doing the jetting. What I am really trying to understand is how to go about diagnosing this. I think that a bog can occur in a "too rich" OR "too lean" scenario? Could this be caused by a carb sync issue? I really thought that the bike would run crisp because it is cold. Not cold enough to run lean, but definitely not on the rich side of things. Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 i usually start a diagnosis by checking the pickup gap (.018-.020) and making sure the flywheel has no rust on the pickup tabs. then i would check the float height on both carbs. you can switch your plug wires to see if its a bad wire connection. what side is loading? i would put in some new plug when you do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Your pilot is too small. You need a 27.5 pilot. Change that first and then ride the bike and see how it reacts. Report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Thanks for the responses guys. Tyler, I followed the jetting instructions from Toomey (they said to use a 25): http://www.toomey.com/html/t5-inst.htm Do you still think the pilot is too small? Surfrjag, I checked the floats and measured them to ensure they where exactly 21mm. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 I don't care what Toomey says, the 25 pilot is too small. ALL aftermarket pipe setups require at least the 27.5 pilot. Some may want a 30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Fair enough - will do this and report back. Thank you for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toomey Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 No, that gentleman recommending the 27.5 pilot is in error, there is NO data we have ever seen in testing that shows a need to raise the pilot jet under ANY circumstances......... Testing proves this to us. ONLY if in the course of tuning, you were closing the pilot air screw (half turn at a time) and the carburation was improving by the pilot system getting richer (pilot system = 0-1/4 throttle only) would you then, after turning the air screw in past 1/2 turn, go up one size jet and start over at the nominal 1.5 turns out and try again. (the effective range of the airscrew is 1/2 to 3 turns out from full in, then a jet change is needed in either direction and the screw returned to the nominal 1.5 turns out position) This is unnecessary, as the 1.5 turns setting with the stock #25 is correct. Also, your setup as described is right, the only question I have is do you have the lid on the airbox or not....?? If it is on, take it off.... OR, if it is on, is it ventilated? (a minimum of 12, One-Inch holes are required to allow the proper amount of air into the engine.) If it is off, remove the filter and cleanly try it again, something could be restricting air into the engine and we don't want anything to do this. YES!! carb synchronization is important, but you can do it with the feel method too, with fingers, of visually if you don't want to remove the rubber boots. With the idle screws out (not in effect) the slides should make ONE click sound as they bottom out together and should visually rise together. This all assumes clean and lubed cable etc. Twist the throttle (lever?) hard and fully to fully seat all the cables and adjusters while performing this operation. Best of luck! S. Toomey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tarmacsti Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Now this is a good reply^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted December 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2012 Finally getting around to replying - bike runs extremely well with this kit. I would recommend it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted December 27, 2012 Report Share Posted December 27, 2012 Didn't even know Toomey ever hung around here. Good to see ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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