HOMERTHECLOWN Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 First time out with the new ride. Friday night, started first kick, idled for 10 minutes until warm, this bike does not load up, runs great. Took it down the the flats west side of Gecko road, pad 5 and made a few passes. Well I have to say, Scary fast on the top, I was pretty impressed to say the least. (I know there are guys here that have stuff 3 times as fast, and would say, its okay, could be faster) I was happy with it and could not wait to feel it on the hill. The next morning, adjusted the shifter, was not happy with the feel or the shifting for that matter, (Im 6' 260 pounds fat, bad knees, size 12 boot, I am sure thats the problem) started again, warmed up, same drill, only this time my buddy tagged along with his yzf 450, all bolt ons, but runs real strong. Now, we probably raced a dozen times and I knew by feel I had a much faster bike, and so did he, but the problem was hooking up, I knew there was a lot of work to be done there, getting the launch down, wanted to try 2nd gear start, seating position ect. I was always 3-6 bike lengths back hitting third and the top end pull was amazing, going into 5th i was going by him, or at least with him. Here was the next problem, due to our schedules, I could never get with Matt to set up the Marvin Shaws for me, so, I guessed, and was a little unsure what would happen WFO in 6th, so I would shut it down. All of that was okay and I knew with a little seat time I would get the power down. Then it happened, a kick in the nuts...... The bike sat for 10-15 minutes and on restart, again first or second kick, right to idle, no worries, ran great, take off, putt down a ways, waiting for the rest of the group, and then.....on acceleration, it was like you hit the off button, no sputter, no run bad, just whaap whaap whaap, like air passing into a non firing cylinder. until the rotating mass came to a stop. Kicked it over, started right away, idled great, reved a few times, thought all was well, and it happened again, and again, and again, I could idle or as long as I wanted, but after a few revs, same thing. Plugs were new, looked good upon inspection, but looked wet, not fouled, just wet. Changed plugs, BR8ES, same results. Changed coil, same results. Its to a point now, where it will die when just idling. The camp consensus is fuel or carb issue. (I run straight 110 VP and mix 40 to 1 Caster 927 ) I think its electrical or ignition, I will dive into it this weekend and keep you guys posted. One thing I was told by a friend that was there, on his 86 250r 3 wheeler, with a CT racing 350 kit, is he had the exact same symptom, and it started after his build, and running the same straight race fuel and pre mix, what he found was, oil in the bowl of his carb, like the pre mix was collecting there, he runs a Kehin I think a 40, and he drains the bowl, (plug on bottom) and problem solved. That does not make sense to me, but I will check that. On a side note, we had the right plug out of the bike, and I kicked it over not knowing, and it started right away and ran. I am still a NOOB, and have posted questions, and you guys have given me great advise, I appreciate all of your expertice and any advise you may have. Thanks, Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp2000 Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 Hope its not the top end going out. Glamis is a great place to ride but has claimed many banshee motors lives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5150banshee Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 Hope its not the top end going out. Glamis is a great place to ride but has claimed many banshee motors lives. :cry: this is true i have dumped two or three motors there and im talking full blown crank top end even taken pert of the head with it. good luck hopefully its something minor. keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted January 21, 2012 Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 im not sure of the year but if its newer and has a parking brake the park brake limiter may have screwed up. unhook that piece of shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOMERTHECLOWN Posted January 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2012 im not sure of the year but if its newer and has a parking brake the park brake limiter may have screwed up. unhook that piece of shit Parking brake and all components are all gone, I should have some idea by this afternoon, I will post findings, Thanks for the input. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yz4jdm Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Damn that sucks bro. I loved riding in Glamis but hated what it did to the motors! Also check your timing key. They get sheared off sometimes and it messes with the timing. Did it on mine and blew the motor up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 It really sounds electrical since you said the plug or plugs were wet. Make sure to check the pickup gap on the stator, check all connections, ground, tors, park brake crap and maybe even swap cdis or stators with another bike. Sometimes the sparkplug caps get bad and have a lot of resistance and can make electrical systems act up but stators are the usual suspect most of the time. If your bike is jetted correctly and all of a sudden acting up and shows a wet sparkplug thats a good sign of an electrical problem or float. If your plug immediately after it cut out was white or gray I would say it wqs running a bowl dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOMERTHECLOWN Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 UPDATE..... Checked compression, cold only, cause I could not warm it up. 100psi right and 125psi left. seems low for the motor build, but I am pretty sure that is not the problem but now I will pull the top end and send it to a sponsor, probably Kevin because He is close and folks speak highly of him. Pulled carbs, 35mm Kehins, bowls were fulll, free of oil, and jets were clear, jet size 25 and 155. Pulled stator, all looked okay, but I am installing a rewound unit fith the ground floated, to charge the battery. Question, How do you tell what the timing is set at with an adjustable plate, I see all the different settings, but do not see a reference point (timing mark) I marked the original position, but cant tell where it is set at. Removed the wiring harness, and will re-wire only whats necessary. More to come.. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaman244 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 100 is getting down there most rebuild them at 110-100 or lower Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubberneck Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 The timing mark is usually referenced off of the case split line. As far as the compression goes it is concerning that you have such a difference between the 2 cylinders. If it were me id pull the top end off and see what's going on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOMERTHECLOWN Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 The timing mark is usually referenced off of the case split line. As far as the compression goes it is concerning that you have such a difference between the 2 cylinders. If it were me id pull the top end off and see what's going on I agree. I will tear into it. I will keep you all posted. Okay, prepare yourselves, I have a confession to make, be gentle please......... If you will, imagine a room full of guys, drinking stale coffee, most of them either lurk here or log in anonymously. and I stand up and say.... Hi, my name is Rick, and my bike has a boost bottle...I did not put it there, honest, it was the guy who had it before me. I really didn't know what it was, i swear, I was gonna take it off... My guess is that 12 years ago when the bike was built someone thought it was a good idea, kinda like a mullet. What goes there, the stock balance tube (I assume that is what it is) or different intakes? Thanks for the advise. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SFB172 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Sounds like my trip to Glamis last week, disaster sums it up. Still had fun and all luckily we brought a spare bike so i could still get around but i was disappointed that my bike was down. Good luck with the repair Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hp2000 Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Talking about disaster, my trans gave out on Saturday out in glamis it gets really hard to shift them it let's go and shifts great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOMERTHECLOWN Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Sounds like my trip to Glamis last week, disaster sums it up. Still had fun and all luckily we brought a spare bike so i could still get around but i was disappointed that my bike was down. Good luck with the repair I got to drive a new Polaris 900 RZR XP talk about fun, I have been thinking about replacing this with one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowbuckracing Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 Check your flywheel and make sure your woodruff key is not wore out, broke, or spun. Had that happen before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.