SlowerThanYou Posted April 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Also, what is your launch rpm? Would decreasing arm weight help with initial hit? There are certain specifics I don't like to get into, but the launch is above 8,000 RPM. I'm going to hold off right now on the arm weight question, but that's planned for later discussion & the issue we had today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1JUANstunna Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Why didn't you split the difference on the base pressure and try that instead of the air pressure adjustment. Besides the fact that the air pressure adjustment is quicker to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 21, 2015 Report Share Posted April 21, 2015 "So, this weekend we had 2 back to back qualifying hits on Fri., with no time to make a clutch adjustment. Both times it drove thru the clutch, but the 2nd pass was a little better with the clutch being hot. " I'm intrigued that the set up was identical yet the second run licked better results despite the clutch being hotter. Is that red flag info? Or do you just chalk it up to tires being better after being warmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 So, here's the question. How much lower from the XXX lb. baseline do I go & is there anything else I can do besides lowering the baseline? Why didn't you split the difference on the base pressure and try that instead of the air pressure adjustment. Besides the fact that the air pressure adjustment is quicker to do. Special06banshee got the 2nd part of the question & #1Juan got the 1st part. IMO, both answers to the question are right. We only made one adjustment with the higher launch rpm & higher air pressure. It was step in the right direction, but we need to lower the base/static some also. Probably around 5 - 10 lbs. Just for information we were dead hooking the tires (no wheelspin) with the examples given for the questions. We induced another problem around 15' out with the higher launch RPM. That will be the next subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I would try taking 12lbs off the baseline base pressure instead of the 24lb. Also raise the launch rpm 200 rpm instead of 400rpm assuming you can make that small of an ajustment. If it left really hard I'm going to guess your next problem would be "pogoing" of the wheelie bar and unloading the rear tires? The launch rpm is staying & going higher. We can make adjustments in 100 RPM increments. LOL! we have already been thru the pogoing deal & that has always primarily been too much wheelie bar wheel height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 "So, this weekend we had 2 back to back qualifying hits on Fri., with no time to make a clutch adjustment. Both times it drove thru the clutch, but the 2nd pass was a little better with the clutch being hot. " I'm intrigued that the set up was identical yet the second run licked better results despite the clutch being hotter. Is that red flag info? Or do you just chalk it up to tires being better after being warmer Tricked, sorry for the confusion. The 2nd run was slower by 1 hundredth in ET. What picked up was reaction time & that's what was being used for qualifying. The 1st pass was a .140 & the 2nd was .057 both slow. When the clutch was somewhat right Justin qualified with a .012 & that only got him 8th in the field. Note: Clutch tuning isn't just for performance, it affects reaction times also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 I appreciate people trying to help me out, even got a PM on the subject. I really don't feel too lost with this clutch set-up. Does it need work, yes! But that's all part of tuning any aspect of a quad. I have went thru the basics & a few intermediate level clutch tuning areas in this thread. This part of the thread I wanted to give some real world examples as they happen. Then I hope to switch sometime in the future to the Multi-Stage & give some comparison/differences in the performance/set-up of the 2 lock-up. If I haven't answered anybody or you need clarification. Please speak up in this thread & I'll try to explain it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Ok. Let's say a guy gets the lever released perfect every time. And it's not just driving through the clutch. (Just hypothetically)What things can I do to create better reaction times. I thought we started to kinda touch on this a page back or so. Air gap? Lever travel via the adjuster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Wondering the same thing^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Ok. Let's say a guy gets the lever released perfect every time. And it's not just driving through the clutch. (Just hypothetically)What things can I do to create better reaction times. I thought we started to kinda touch on this a page back or so. Air gap? Lever travel via the adjuster? Wondering the same thing^ OK, some of it was covered in post #385 & #386. Tricked, you picked up on the adjuster bolt. What else can you see in that picture that would affect reaction time? Clue: there are 3 other areas that I know of & maybe some that I don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 We induced another problem around 15' out with the higher launch RPM. That will be the next subject. This is the problem we had in the 1st round of racing & caused the loss. The quad left really hard & was on the wheelie bar good. About 15' out it bogged & slammed down on the front tires then came back to life for the rest of the run. What do you guys think some of the causes were for that problem? We have our game plan to make the appropriate changes this weekend & test/race them next weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 To much arm weight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 OK, some of it was covered in post #385 & #386. Tricked, you picked up on the adjuster bolt. What else can you see in that picture that would affect reaction time? Clue: there are 3 other areas that I know of & maybe some that I don't. In just that photo alone all I see is the adjustment(already mentioned) and the 2 step. So in that one photo alone that means there are two other items I need to address? Hmm... I'll keep staring and try and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 To much arm weight? I'm sure arm weight contributed, but IMO we are getting close to not having enough arm weight. I'm worried about it slipping the clutch on the 5-6 gear shift. We haven't even been close to a problem at 15' out with this standard lock-up or even with the multi-stage. I attribute the majority of the problem with getting really aggressive with the initial launch. The only changes we made to the set-up for that run was raising the launch RPM & raising rear tire pressure. I'm pretty sure we are at the RPM we need to leave at the majority of the time. Now, we need to figure out how to slow the arms down. We are going to lighten the arm weights slightly. I'm also going to machine a part & try another theory to hopefully slow down the arm application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted April 25, 2015 Report Share Posted April 25, 2015 100% sure it's not lean and has the motor loaded so hard before the velocity through the carbs picks up enough to fuel the low end? Although I'd agree you're fighting it right where it really starts to put the squeeze on the clutch and that a LITTLE less arm weight might cure it, we fought that on the turbo bike only to figure out it was lean by just enough. Fattening it up or taking a bit of load off the motor would let it drive through. I always call the first 20 feet the break zone. Typically if the bike hasn't wrecked itself in that section you were good until the last 60 feet of the track. Unfortunately those are the hardest 2 spots on the track! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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