SlowerThanYou Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I've made an update to post #1 of this thread. While it's a small add, it's the most important step! Kendro your Baseline procedures/step are on page 15 &16. I reference that in the 1st post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dozer Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 (edited) ill tell you guys this much, when you first let go of the lever on a well tuned clutch your gona be like WTF! it wont have that sudden yank. it will probably feel slower even though its actually faster. im not good with a clutch yet but i got to ride a well sorted 10mm and that was pure fun. Edited November 2, 2014 by dozer 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1JUANstunna Posted November 7, 2014 Report Share Posted November 7, 2014 Digitron, its a mph sensor I just use it for the clutch. Got it on the output shaft near the sprocket, it also reads rpm, get temp Thanks for the phone call! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2strokes4u Posted January 14, 2015 Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 Finally made it all the way through this thread. I am excited to put this to use and get better 60ft times.Will post results once I have some. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Some of my topics come from PMs. I kind of hit on this in this thread & stressed it in a PM this morning. Launch Limiter.......!!!!!!!!!! Is it needed for a properly set-up clutch? You make the choice & this is a classic example that happened to us yesterday. While we had a new combination testing yesterday & only 4 runs on it. The launch limiter worked for 3 runs. The last run I made an adjustment to the clutch lever stop. That caused the clutch lever switch not to activate the launch limiter. My son tried to replicate the launch rpm, but I'm sure he missed it. The results were, the run was 2 tenths slower than the 2 previous runs. So, you make the choice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted February 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2015 This is an answer to question from PM. I have never used this set-up. It's better than no launch limiter, but not the way we like to adjust. The diagram is supposed to work on a Banshee & a few have done it using it. I hate posting something I have not done or used. Hope it works for whomever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Ok, so when you guys speak of air gap, are you talking about the distance created when pulling the clutch lever? Curious, if I keep it as tight as possible, will that have any bearing on reaction time? I've already messed with base pressure to get a strong reaction and pulled a touch weight to make up for the aggressiveness. I've noticed a fine line between getting the bike moving and slipping vs just blazing through the clutch and slowly letting it grab. I'm not a drag guy but I have noticed some really cool stuff that helps build consistency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Its the measurement between the pressure plate and lockup arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 16, 2015 Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Ok, thanks. No need for me to worry about it as I'm running a slingshot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted March 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2015 Ok, so when you guys speak of air gap, are you talking about the distance created when pulling the clutch lever? Curious, if I keep it as tight as possible, will that have any bearing on reaction time? I've already messed with base pressure to get a strong reaction and pulled a touch weight to make up for the aggressiveness. I've noticed a fine line between getting the bike moving and slipping vs just blazing through the clutch and slowly letting it grab. I'm not a drag guy but I have noticed some really cool stuff that helps build consistency. Its the measurement between the pressure plate and lockup arms. Ok, thanks. No need for me to worry about it as I'm running a slingshot. While some of the basics have been covered in this thread. Most refer to air gap as the measurement between lock-up arm & pressure plate as stated by possum. Some refer to air gap as the distance created between the pressure plate & clutch pack when the clutch lever is pulled in as implied by tricked. The most common reference to this is not air gap, but referred to as clutch pack height. Now, for tricked's question. Yes, you can adjust the clutch pack height for a quicker reaction. Simply by increasing the clutch stack height. We do this by installing a thicker steel. We have a thickness we use now & getting ready to test a thicker steel/increased stack height. Sorry, I pointed you guys in the right direction, but not giving up all my measurement/information. ***NOTE/CAUTION*** More stack height can cause other problems. Your clutch adjustment window in reference to your arrows on the case/clutch engagement arm becomes narrower & needs adjustment more frequent. More isn't always better! There are also other things that can be done also. Maybe someone could explain/WAG what can be done with the clutch lever itself...??? I'm in no hurry with this thread & I can take the picture(s) to show, maybe. Would like to here some ideas from the BHQ Member's! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted March 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2015 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 I'm going to try for a final time to get some discussion going in this thread. We been having a few tuning issues with our new motor & using a standard lock-up. While we have fixed some of the problems, we have opened up some new ones. We started with a baseline that I considered a tight clutch; base pressure a little high, way too much arm weight & a lower than preferred launch rpm. I will start with the base pressure, we started at XXX lbs. This was causing the motor RPM pull down to far at the drop of the clutch lever. So, the 1st change was to drop the base pressure 24 lbs. The motor responded by not pulling down the rpm, but being a little lazy at the drop of the clutch. I then made it worse by dropping the base pressure another 8 lbs. Don't know what I was thinking, but we also had raised the launch RPM by 400 RPM. Anyway, the quad did not want to move at the drop of the clutch. Classic example of what's referred to as, driving thru the clutch. So, this weekend we had 2 back to back qualifying hits on Fri., with no time to make a clutch adjustment. Both times it drove thru the clutch, but the 2nd pass was a little better with the clutch being hot. Sat. we were only getting 1 other qualifying pass. We made our changes in the morning before the run. We went back to our original base pressure we started with XXX lbs. The bike ran 2 hundredths off our best time at our track. While we were somewhat happy. That XXX lbs. base pressure is still dangerously close to causing a bog. So, here's the question. How much lower from the XXX lb. baseline do I go & is there anything else I can do besides lowering the baseline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Curious as to why you dont wanna raise launch rpm and keep xxx base? Will your setup start hazing the tires with more rpm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
special06shee Posted April 20, 2015 Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 Also, what is your launch rpm? Would decreasing arm weight help with initial hit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2015 So, here's the question. How much lower from the XXX lb. baseline do I go & is there anything else I can do besides lowering the baseline? Curious as to why you dont wanna raise launch rpm and keep xxx base? Will your setup start hazing the tires with more rpm? Winner...winner, chicken dinner! You got the 2nd part of the question right. That's what we did for todays pass. Along with raising the rear tire pressure a little. It came off the line really hard, but caused another issue. That will be another question coming later. Now, why not keep the same launch RPM & drop the base pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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