SlowerThanYou Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Arm weight: This is pretty simple, but I do get questions on this. You weigh all the components that get attached to the lock-up arms. The scale shown is a cheap/small scale that fits into the clutch box. Clutch Stack Height: n2otoofast4u brought up stack height in conversation recently. In simple terms, it's the total height of your 7 frictions & 6 plates stacked together. We choose to measure our frictions/plates individually. Below is a very basic example of how we do it for both the friction/plates. We take the measurements 3 or 4 different spots. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fappy'97 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Is this the same way of measuring valve spring pressure as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Is this the same way of measuring valve spring pressure as well? It's a little more involved when setting up valve springs. It involves seat pressure/open pressure measurements & checking for coil bind to name a few items. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Question about arms. In you experience are the arms all the same from pivot to weight location. or is the distance different from a hayes to a mtc to a mattoon or direct drive? was just curious.also noticed you had a pic of a pressure plate that had been machined. whats up with that? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
banshee760 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Anyone mess with slingshots ?? And know were to get diferent types of bearings for weight ??? http://m.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Valve-Spring-Testers/ How about the mini Proform they have listed? I even like their mini digital. And they have an actual bench top from moroso for a decent price. Also when you are testing pressures, do you guys ever test the springs with some sort of stop or guide that lets you measure them at installed height? Now my contribution, here is a photo for you slingshot fellas. The driveline unit comes reccomended to have 2 balls in each of the short grooves. However I got to thinking about ways to make this thing more progressive because even with the softer springs it can be pretty violent. So I pulled one ball out of the center of all the short groove sections and places them in each of the longer ones. Feels a lot more smooth and less violent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 I had a guy order aluminum balls that he sent off to be hard annodized. Other then that I just got ahold of a rep at McMaster Carr. Told him the size I needed and he sent me a lighter steel, ceramic, and titanium balls. Havnt messed with them yet. Not till january Funny: that post kinda reminds me of why we started talking about installed height Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted November 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Question about arms. In you experience are the arms all the same from pivot to weight location. or is the distance different from a hayes to a mtc to a mattoon or direct drive? was just curious.also noticed you had a pic of a pressure plate that had been machined. whats up with that? I don't know for sure on your 1st ? The motorcycle drag bike guys told me very little information on this many years ago. They talked about different heights/angles of the lock-up arms. I didn't get a whole lot of information, either they didn't know how it affected the tune or didn't want to share the info. Between my direct drive & mtc there appears to be a difference, but I've never measured them. One is installed in the bike right now or I would measure them. For the machined pressure plate, we try to not show what has to be done for our multi-stage set-up. It's not that's really a secret, it has more to do with trying to keep this thread to the key basics. The pressure plate along with other things has to be machined to adapt the multi-stage to the Banshee clutch system. While some of the machining helps with standard lock-ups, IMO it's a nicety & not a requirement. I think the pic also showed steel buttons & part of the plate being coated also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted November 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 I get question about what fluid to use for the transmission & clutch. IMO, the best advice I can give is to use some type of full synthetic fluid. We used Royal Purple Synchromax for many years & loved it, but didn't like the price. This year we switched to a synthetic trans fluid, that I can get reasonably cheap compared to the Synchromax. I don't like recommending specific items until I'm comfortable with using them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
possum Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 what kind of synthetic trans fluid. auto? motorcyle? what brand specifically? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phunt Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 I'm still testing slowerthanyou but as soon as race season is over I'll be posting somethings that has help and hurt me at the track. By the way ran a 3.67 1.32 80.7 this past weekend, there is more changes I would love to try but looks like I'll run out of time this year. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 I have had a lot of gear oil through my bike as I am sometimes slipping it out a bit differently then the drag guys. I actually set the bike up to come out of the turn so that it gets on to the pipe and also manage to keep it take enough to not blow the tires off. Needless to say, I burn down a lot of oil. Tree brands I find best are the Royal purple, Amsoil, and B&M. The latest is the Royal purple but I havn't got to actually race with it just ride so I'm still on the fence but i can vouch that it is smooth shifting and has taken some hours on a pretty stout motor with out needing a change. Gave it the ol stink finger test after 10 hours and it was still damn fresh. The Amsoil I have ran about anything they make through my bike. The Super Shift ATF , Severe Gear for motor cycles and ATV, synthetic gear lube, and Torque Drive all come to mind. The ATF super shift being the best bang for the buck. It shifted smooth and consistent with zero chatter or missed shifts. It was also nice to tune with. It allows slip with out any inconsistencies. The power sport synthetic gear box lube acted the same, however it was short lived and needed frequent changing. The Torque Drive is tough and lasts a long time. Great for a trail bike but it doesn't allow slip and will chatter if you force it to. The last was Severe gear, junk in a banshee. Just had a case of it laying around from my girl friends dad. He tried it in his triumph and hated it. So I took it and ran it but it had to be changed fast and never rode smooth or shifted well. The last was the B&M Trick Shift. Had a ton of it left over from a 700r4 build so it made its way in to the banshee. It handles heat well, shifts ok, allows slip, but it is short lifed in a banshee. Terrible price to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted November 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 I don't like recommending specific items until I'm comfortable with using them. what kind of synthetic trans fluid. auto? motorcyle? what brand specifically? I wasn't going to comment on the fluid, but Tricked hit the type/brand below. The last was the B&M Trick Shift. Had a ton of it left over from a 700r4 build so it made its way in to the banshee. It handles heat well, shifts ok, allows slip, but it is short lifed in a banshee. Terrible price to. I don't know if you were using the Synthetic B&M Trick Shift or the standard. We started using the Synthetic this year with the DMX. The reason we didn't want to recommend is, plain & simple not enough runs to give it a fair shake. The price is not that bad for me to get with a Jegs Racer discount. We are seeing more heat in the clutch pack than what we are used to. Having some shifting issues into 4th gear. Not sure if it's the fluid or tires causing the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Whattya mean? I don't know shit about fluid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10milmike Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Is this what u guys are using? Sent from my Samsung Galaxy note 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted November 13, 2013 Report Share Posted November 13, 2013 Yep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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