BANSHEE HP Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 Tungsten, ceramic, leaving balls out of some grooves. Endless possibilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted March 6, 2014 Report Share Posted March 6, 2014 So nobody has any ideas on what other springs I can try? As for as banshee springs go I have, vesrah, Barnett, ebc, stock oem, and tusk. Just looking to give myself a lot of different springs to be able to tune this clutch...any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Adjust your spring free length and or pack thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Where can i get different weights for the slingshot lockup and what size do i need http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-balls/=qzfrws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickedcarbine Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 So nobody has any ideas on what other springs I can try? As for as banshee springs go I have, vesrah, Barnett, ebc, stock oem, and tusk. Just looking to give myself a lot of different springs to be able to tune this clutch...any ideas?how much weight and what grooves are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Blaster , r1, r6 but for the most part I use stock springs and cut to suit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 how much weight and what grooves are you using? I actually ditched the slingshot for a reg DD lockout. Blaster , r1, r6 but for the most part I use stock springs and cut to suit Thanks for that info, just ordered a bunch of springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Ok, now how is everyone cutting their springs? I just attempeted putting one in a vice and using a hacksaw but there's got to be a better way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Ok, now how is everyone cutting their springs? I just attempeted putting one in a vice and using a hacksaw but there's got to be a better way. High speed cut off wheel is where I started. I like to use my small cable cutter now & dress up the ends after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Ok I will use the small cut off wheel, now another question is after you cut them, where do you put the cut part, towards the motor or towards the clutch cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted March 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Ok I will use the small cut off wheel, now another question is after you cut them, where do you put the cut part, towards the motor or towards the clutch cover? We put the cut off side on the pressure plate. It hasn't caused us any problems, but the pressure plate is cheaper than our multi-stage lock-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjatv Posted March 21, 2014 Report Share Posted March 21, 2014 Ok will do, thanks for the advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_04 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Just out of curiosity, has anybody mentioned the effects chassis setups have on clutching? I realize this isnt specifically a "clutch tuning" thing, but it will have an effect on the clutching itself. I am considering buying and building my first banshee this summer for drag racing. I have way more experience drag racing snowmobiles, but I like seeing how fast I can get stuff to run. Im not that concerned about mph, I like the acceleration. Although the concepts are a little different, I see a few ideas that could translate from sled clutches. Im fully aware a cvt and a lockup clutch are 2 totally different things. Im talking about weight profiles and weight placement. Im sure a few people will catch on to what Im getting at. When I say this Im not trying to offend anybody in anyway at all, but these lockup clutches have been around since the 60s in automotive drag racing, maybe even earlier. I seen a few people turning up their noses when comparing their banshees to cars. Although the application isnt exactly the same, if you use a little creative thinking there are so many things that can be taken from the car world and applied to 4 wheeler setup. Between clutch setup, chassis setup, etc. they already did the work over 50 years ago on cars, you just need to think outside of the box a little. I think what most people need to realize is that its the whole setup that matters, not just one thing. And 99% of the time, changing one thing has an affect on something somewhere else. Well, I guess I didnt really have a question lol. This is just my view. I really urge people to look at the similarity to lockup clutches in cars. Theres way more info to be had on theories and setups for car clutches than anything you will find for banshee specific setups. Obviously they are running way more base pressure and much heavier arms, the concept is the same. If you dont realize the similarities then, no offense, maybe clutching isnt for you. And yes I agree, having a baseline is important. I would consider it a reference more than a baseline I guess. Its extremely important to have a reference so you KNOW what you have, and you KNOW what you changed. Otherwise you are just guessing, and guessing certainly never made anybody CONSISTENTLY fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 Just out of curiosity, has anybody mentioned the effects chassis setups have on clutching? I realize this isnt specifically a "clutch tuning" thing, but it will have an effect on the clutching itself. I am considering buying and building my first banshee this summer for drag racing. I have way more experience drag racing snowmobiles, but I like seeing how fast I can get stuff to run. Im not that concerned about mph, I like the acceleration. Although the concepts are a little different, I see a few ideas that could translate from sled clutches. Im fully aware a cvt and a lockup clutch are 2 totally different things. Im talking about weight profiles and weight placement. Im sure a few people will catch on to what Im getting at. When I say this Im not trying to offend anybody in anyway at all, but these lockup clutches have been around since the 60s in automotive drag racing, maybe even earlier. I seen a few people turning up their noses when comparing their banshees to cars. Although the application isnt exactly the same, if you use a little creative thinking there are so many things that can be taken from the car world and applied to 4 wheeler setup. Between clutch setup, chassis setup, etc. they already did the work over 50 years ago on cars, you just need to think outside of the box a little. I think what most people need to realize is that its the whole setup that matters, not just one thing. And 99% of the time, changing one thing has an affect on something somewhere else. Well, I guess I didnt really have a question lol. This is just my view. I really urge people to look at the similarity to lockup clutches in cars. Theres way more info to be had on theories and setups for car clutches than anything you will find for banshee specific setups. Obviously they are running way more base pressure and much heavier arms, the concept is the same. If you dont realize the similarities then, no offense, maybe clutching isnt for you. And yes I agree, having a baseline is important. I would consider it a reference more than a baseline I guess. Its extremely important to have a reference so you KNOW what you have, and you KNOW what you changed. Otherwise you are just guessing, and guessing certainly never made anybody CONSISTENTLY fast. You pretty much hit the nail on the head with your 1st post! Did you read post # 2 of this thread? I used my car racing background, along with my research to develop our ATV clutch program. There was a lot of hard lessons along the way, but with a lot of testing/R&D. We have came a long way. Now, a good many are trying to play catch-up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric_04 Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 You pretty much hit the nail on the head with your 1st post! Did you read post # 2 of this thread? I used my car racing background, along with my research to develop our ATV clutch program. There was a lot of hard lessons along the way, but with a lot of testing/R&D. We have came a long way. Now, a good many are trying to play catch-up. Lol no I didnt read it until just now. Small world huh? I should really start reading this stuff from the first page more often. I have a question for you.. Do you know where a reasonably priced 60' timer setup can be found? I only need it for a single lane just for testing. I looked at the portatree website and they are pretty pricy. I'd like to be able to use it for my sled as well. Its 60 foots have been 1.28-1.30s but Ive made some changes and havent been on timers since. It feels like the changes made it faster, but we all know how that goes. Also, Ive never owned a banshee, but Im thinking of building a stock frame 4 mil cub, 1-5 override, wheelie bar, drag pipes, lockup clutch, etc. That should be good enough to entertain me for a while and to learn the clutching and chassis setup I would think. A lot of people keep saying spend a little more now and build a 10 mil or 18 dm. I would rather learn the tuning and clutching on something a little smaller first. More power would just mean more fried clutch plates and maybe some other broken parts while trying to dial it in. This would be for drag only on dirt, and maybe on the ice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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