Lock Out/Lock-Up Tuning

[SlowerThanYou]

Could someone post up a pic of measuring air gap. Our stuff is in Phoenix for a makeover.

[SOUTHTHIRTY]

Air gap pic ..please

[SlowerThanYou]

Air gap pic ..please

 

Air gap is a pretty simple measurement usually taken with a feeler gauge inserted between the pressure plate & the lock-up arms. The main thing you have to insure with a traditional style lock-up & stock pressure plate. The angle of the lock-up arm that touches the pressure plate has to somewhat match the pressure plate angle. As you may know the lock-up arm is flat, but the pressure plate has a curve cast into it.

 

Like I said earlier, we don't worry too much about the air gap. The main thing is to ensure it has the minimum needed to totally disengage the clutch when the clutch lever is pulled in. The easiest way to check this, is to simply pull in the lever & make sure it makes contact with the handle bar grip.

 

We know our minimum air gap needed to disengage the clutch, .090. This setting is used when running a pro light tree when drag racing. When we race on a sportsman full tree & we cannot slow the reactions down enough. We will open the air gap to around .130. This is the only reasons we change the air gap.

 

Now other's will disagree, but other than having the minimum air gap needed to disengage the clutch. Spend your time on the key basics of clutch tuning. Baseline, Base Pressure & Arm Weight!

[davidr]

So need to shape the arms on the lockup????

[davidr]

Interested thread for sure thx in advance

[SlowerThanYou]

So need to shape the arms on the lockup????

 

If you are referring to setting the air gap. No need to shape the arms.

 

Setting/changing air gap can be accomplished many different ways. One of the easiest ways is to change your clutch pack height.  I'll say it again don't waste a lot of time on the air gap, refer back to post #243.  

[SlowerThanYou]

I just got asked the question again in a PM. Why doesn't anyone post their actual spring pressure.

 

I know why I don't post spring pressures. Most people don't like the 1st answer, so I will not repeat it.

 

The 2nd reason is involves the value of that information. I always try & reinforce the priority of clutch tuning basics. Baseline, Base Pressure & Arm Weight!

 

I always want to put Base Pressure in the number one spot over the Baseline. It really should go there, but without the Baseline being 1st it would be kind of like a dog chasing its tail.

 

Back to the value of Base Pressure. In all of our clutch tuning, not just the basics. IMO, the Base Pressure has the single most affect on the performance of the quad (good or bad). Don't get me wrong, that  Arm Weight or other stuff I talk about doesn't matter. It all matters, but each area has a lesser effect on the performance of the quad.

 

I only know of two members in the HQ that has taken some/all of this information or developed their own clutch program. phunt, comes to mind with his low 1.30 60's. Oh by the way Mr. phunt you still owe this thread some information!

  

 

 

[10milmike]

I just dropped my spring pressure 10 more pounds. And change my arm weight again. Lol. See what happen next week at the track. Best 60 foot is 1.51. Hoping to get into the 1.30's

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy note 3

[phunt]

First thing that you need is like slowerthanyou stress's so much about is base line your set up, BASE PRESURE.. To me that's 70% of getting your 60ft down ( all this is dirt testing) I'll give a little more info, I started at 140lbs of spring pressure total last year and had stock lockup weigh I think 7grams per arm. That was my baseline,BUT my setup was 14inch swingarm 16stager on 10x12 rim 231lb bike 150lb rider best time with that was 1.302 60ft 80.5 mph 3.69. Ok then late into the year I got my bike down to 221lb and a rider 125lb and my best was 1.32 80.7 mph 3.67 all of this was on the same clutch setup, guess what I need a new base line, there's no doubt less weight goes faster but the biggest thing I say at the track control your tire from the dump of the clutch handle... Guys think of accelerating your bike, not spinning, not trying to wheelie your tires down the track.

[phunt]

The 140lbs spring pressure the bike ran 1.41 60ft 79mph 3.84 all I change on the clutch was spring pressure and went 1.38,1.36,1.34,1.32,1.30 60ft but that's about a 5 weeks of testing. If your going to get real aggressive my advise get extra sets of clutches.

[phunt]

If you can change only 6lbs of spring pressure at a time. Don't worry about what et your running, just try to understand what your bike is telling you.

[sprinklerman]

If you can change only 6lbs of spring pressure at a time. Don't worry about what et your running, just try to understand what your bike is telling you.

Thanks for all the info.

Have you played with your tuning much on sand?

We race in the dunes and do not have the benefit of a groomed/consistent surface or timing lights to accurately measure changes.

I've played with my base pressure some ( in the dunes) and found the results hard to discern because of the reasons I mentioned.

Any thoughts/ theories on that?

Thanks

 

Sent from a van down by the river

[phunt]

One more thing and I'll hush... This is how I tell if you got a good handle on controlling the tire, most guys will slow the tire down with gear, just say my gear was 16/46 and I was on the line of it bogging but it control my tire from spinging.. Put a 15 on the front and see if you can slow it down knowing that to low of a gear and knowing its going to spin. Then you will start understanding the clutch... Make only one change, don't change you spring and lockup weight at one time.

Edited February 2, 2014 by phunt

[phunt]

Thanks for all the info.

Have you played with your tuning much on sand?

We race in the dunes and do not have the benefit of a groomed/consistent surface or timing lights to accurately measure changes.

I've played with my base pressure some ( in the dunes) and found the results hard to discern because of the reasons I mentioned.

Any thoughts/ theories on that?

Thanks

Sent from a van down by the river

I have never ran sand but you can still control the tire, with out any timing system the only other option is to use someone as a guinepig( like a sparing partner) use him to see if you speed up or slow down. Another thing if the track is not there guys don't chase it, its like trying to hit a curve ball.

[sprinklerman]

Another thing if the track is not there guys don't chase it, its like trying to hit a curve ball.

That's pretty much where I ended up. Ha. !

The surface is constantly changing and the guy that I would compare changes against would too. ( rider error or sand conditions etc).

We deal with ruts, whoops, etc and the sand changes moisture levels depending how deep in a rut you are in. ..and it drys as the day goes along....most of the time.

 

Sent from a van down by the river