m671054 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 All stock or possibly even 1 coil cut on stock spring. then add an extra nut on the arm weight if you feel it slip or if you need it to lock up sooner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I'm trying just 4 stockers on my lock up now, but my bike is light and so am I. Just remember I only have about 4 years of experience drag racing. Trial and Error at this point, try 6 stockers and see what happens, if that slips too much mix and match. I'll try that. This is my 3rd year on dirt but I'm actually trying to take it more seriously this year. I'm sick.of 2nd place. The bike is deadly consistent, it just not right on the launch. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 All stock or possibly even 1 coil cut on stock spring. then add an extra nut on the arm weight if you feel it slip or if you need it to lock up sooner. My old man said the same thing. Thanks for the input fellas, I'll report back. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Just remember with less base pressure the more lockup weight you will need. Im still playing with base pressure and weight myself so im really no help there. What motor do you got nightmare? estimate hp? Its a 350 with a backyard port job on gas. When we built it in 2010 it put out 86hp and 48ft lbs on alky. It runs 4.8/4.9 all day on gas now. Its goin back to alky next week. Maybe I just leave it alone being that it is consistent and it is bracket racing. Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m671054 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Btw if you end up cutting a coil dont stretch it back to the same oe lenrgh. that raises thepressure back up a little. you could maybe remove a fiber and double stack a steel to get a similar effect as a cut coil. not sure if that will work in a stock basket but on a 8 plate hinson it would work. Edited June 15, 2013 by m671054 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 PEOPLE..... The damn lockup is driven off the inner hub!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 PEOPLE..... The damn lockup is driven off the inner hub!!!! You are a wealth of technical information on that comment! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n2otoofast4u Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 It really is. If they have all this base pressure and the clutch never slips it just drives directly into the lockup and the added weight on there becomes far less needed. Some need to understand WHAT makes the lockup work as far as the mechanics of it.<br /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightmare Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I put all 6 stock springs in it and it hooks HARD now. Huge fuckin difference. I can't believe I've been riding it like that. Now I need to run it on the track and get some slips to see if anything has improved. Would this affect my mph or should it improve?<br /><br />Sent from my SGH-T679 using Tapatalk 2<br /><br /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandbum80 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 1)Here are a few questions i have, what weight mobil 1 oil would you rec if i wanted to switch to a synthetic, reason i ask where i work we have all diffrent weight mobil 1 and its free, ive been running 5-w30 non synthetic with good results but as you mentioned if it will keep the heat down even a degree cooler im all for it. 2) Can you give me the spring pressure that 1 stock spring should be when new. 3) Can you give me a general decrption as to what to look for after i make a pass how can i tell if my clutch is etiher a getting to hot ot b slipping to much. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phunt Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Baseline what you have, make a change more or less pressure. Your 60ft will tell you which way to go 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phunt Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 There is no magic set pressure to run because bikes are so different from one to the other. One thing I will say is don't chase the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelman Chassis Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 Sandbum, i will have all my clutch stuff at mayham, scale, spring tester(compression and pulling) and a bunch of tuning stuff i can measure your spring if you want.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowerThanYou Posted June 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 1)Here are a few questions i have, what weight mobil 1 oil would you rec if i wanted to switch to a synthetic, reason i ask where i work we have all diffrent weight mobil 1 and its free, ive been running 5-w30 non synthetic with good results but as you mentioned if it will keep the heat down even a degree cooler im all for it. 2) Can you give me the spring pressure that 1 stock spring should be when new. 3) Can you give me a general decrption as to what to look for after i make a pass how can i tell if my clutch is etiher a getting to hot ot b slipping to much. Thanks in advance 1. I would run the 5w-30 or 10w30. 2. I wouldn't worry about what a new stock spring pressure is. Baseline what you have & make changes from there. phunt's quote below sums it up pretty good. I think I've heard that phrase a bunch of times. LOL! 3. If your set-up is right it will get hot. That's where the extra mods & in between round cooling procedures help control the heat. As for slipping too much or too tight. Again resort to the below quote. For hands on learning/clutch tuning. Wheelman Chassis has offered you a helping hand, that's the best way in my opinion! Baseline what you have, make a change more or less pressure. Your 60ft will tell you which way to go One thing I will say is don't chase the track. This is a good piece of advice, but I will elaborate just a little on it. I will use our new DMX motor combination. For lack of better words we are chasing/learning the clutch set-up with this motor. We started with our 443 Cub set-up & started making adjustments from there. Once we find a good overall set-up we will leave it pretty much alone, except for preventive maintenance. We have between 50 & 60 runs & probably will need around 200-300 runs to feel comfortable with the clutch set-up. Now, our old 7mm motor we had somewhere around 900 asphalt, hill shooting & 300' runs on it. We were very comfortable with that clutch set-up. Only had to make very minor adjustments with it. Most of changes were not made at the track or at the dunes. Now, most of you might find this clutch tuning overwhelming. It can be, a couple of us learned how to do this with very little help. Very little of this information was used in ATV powersports & even less of it was shared. It's really not hard when the basics are being spoon fed to you! Follow the basics in this thread, research other sources & take a little time to learn another tuning aspect of your ATV. If you follow the basics & use sound judgment like phunt & a few other's. Clutch tuning is worth it's weight in gold. Choose not to follow the basics & chase your tail in circles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badassbanshee479 Posted June 23, 2013 Report Share Posted June 23, 2013 used the infromation from this thread and some awesome advise from chris from wheelman chassis this weekend and went from running 4.40s off the trailer pulling 1.6 60s to running 4.0s with 1.4 60s just from a gear change and some clutch tweaking... i am a believer for sure now and cant wait to get a chance to play with it more. I know there is a ton left in it thanks for sharing the info you have in this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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