fuzzypickles Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 I am thinking of doing a 4 mil build but not sure what I need or can expect to do. I know how to dissasemble the engine entirely. I was thinking i would need a gasket set, 4mm crank, and spacer. I cannot find a head spacer, only cylinder base spacers and that would play with my port timing... is there any other parts I need? Any advice or things to watch out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzypickles Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) what you will need is a crank, porting, head cut or coolhead, and gasket/seals. plus you might need to upgrade the clutch, like a stronger set of fibers, a pancake beaing, a modded shift star. shit like that. So the cool heads come readily compatable with a 4 mil crank? Edited January 12, 2012 by fuzzypickles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 So the cool heads come readily compatable with a 4 mil crank? When you buy the coolhead you must get one with stroker domes. They are readily available, you just must specify that's what you need. Just by going to a stroker you are changing your port timing. A spacer plate corrects this somewhat, but is a poor way of doing it. The best way to do it is port your cylinders for the stroke and then either have the stock head cut for the stroker or use a coolhead with stroker domes. If you cut the head or use stroker domes you don't need the spacer. You may need to upgrade your pipes or carbs depending what you have now. You will need better springs in the clutch, shift mods, a billet impeller, a timing plate, better reeds, a longer swingarm, and maybe change your gearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 Here's is the head plate you were asking about in shout last night. It's like having stroker domes on stock head. Several different ways to go about building a stroker. If you go long rod (115mm) you will need new pistons. If you use standard rod (110mm) you can use your current pistons. What are your plans for it? Other mods, etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzypickles Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 When you buy the coolhead you must get one with stroker domes. They are readily available, you just must specify that's what you need. Just by going to a stroker you are changing your port timing. A spacer plate corrects this somewhat, but is a poor way of doing it. The best way to do it is port your cylinders for the stroke and then either have the stock head cut for the stroker or use a coolhead with stroker domes. If you cut the head or use stroker domes you don't need the spacer. You may need to upgrade your pipes or carbs depending what you have now. You will need better springs in the clutch, shift mods, a billet impeller, a timing plate, better reeds, a longer swingarm, and maybe change your gearing. Sounds expensive. I was just gonna do stroker crank, spacer, and gaskets and slap it back together. I have Shearer in frames and uni POD clamp on dual filters. Not sure on my sprocket sizes though. For the price of everything you listed i might as well get a serval cat 392 kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzypickles Posted January 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=479&cat=200&page=1 Here's is the head plate you were asking about in shout last night. It's like having stroker domes on stock head. Several different ways to go about building a stroker. If you go long rod (115mm) you will need new pistons. If you use standard rod (110mm) you can use your current pistons. What are your plans for it? Other mods, etc? Depending on funds i hope to get a 4 mm crank with long rods and a 65 mm piston kit from wiesco. I already have very nice shearer in frames but i would like a set of 35mm carbs to really use the power the engine has the potention for... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DallasGDub Posted January 12, 2012 Report Share Posted January 12, 2012 Going +4m does not add tons more power vs. just getting it ported. The +4 stroke adds more trq and lowend power than anything else. A stock stroke that is properly ported and set up has a lot of power. Night and day difference over a non-ported motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sstaton1983 Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 if your current crank is good just run it with some nice ported cylinders.the 4 mill crank will give you some better torque numbers.to run a 4 mill setup the way i do you will need to have the cylinders ported anyway.i would stay away from spacers,just something else that can leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted January 13, 2012 Report Share Posted January 13, 2012 Sounds expensive. I was just gonna do stroker crank, spacer, and gaskets and slap it back together. I have Shearer in frames and uni POD clamp on dual filters. Not sure on my sprocket sizes though. For the price of everything you listed i might as well get a serval cat 392 kit. This is not a cheap hobby. You get what you pay for and doing something halfway gets you halfway results. Anybody that has been around high performance vehicles knows that when you change one thing, there are 10 more things you will have to modify to make it survive. As was said, a spacer plate is just another place to have an air leak. Considering what you have now, the best bang for the buck is going to be run the stock crank and get it ported. That being said, if you port it for a stock stroke, you may not be able to report it for a 4 mil later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bkm2006 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 hows it run now? are you happy? if your short on cash and have a running bike, why not just save your coin till you need a rebuild. and yes if your thinking 4mill already do it the first time! its a lot cheaper to do the 4mill to start with, then if you where to port your stock cylinder for stoke stroke and want 4 mill later. call jeff at fast ... or any sit sponsor you want .. you will need cool head with cut domes for a 4 mill , crank , pistons, your stock cylinder ported for a 4 mill . thats the basics. then you could go into shift shaft mods . pancake bearing. advance timing plate. the list goes on just contact a site sponsor and decide what you can afford and how far you want to go. I will say though i have a stock stroke aggressive dune ported motor by f.a.s.t and it scream. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikechief Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 4mm SHORT rod crank- $375 .080" copper head gasket- $35 vito's superstock pistons- $160 misc. Bullshit/shipping-$100 being able to (unless they have a motor built by a pro) whomp your buddies ...priceless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike0chek Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 4mm SHORT rod crank- $375 .080" copper head gasket- $35 vito's superstock pistons- $160 misc. Bullshit/shipping-$100 being able to (unless they have a motor built by a pro) whomp your buddies ...priceless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4MiLLDraGSheE Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 I'm with everybody else. According to the wife I have almost 16 grand invested in my stock cylinder 4 mill bike. Not that much in the engine obviously but if your going to do it do it right the first time. Call a site sponsor and spend the extra 300 that will make you a lot more power and be more reliable. Crank. Porting. Head with cut domes for your fuel you want. Get some nice clutch fibers. And your golden. If you wanna be cheap then this "sport" isn't for you because you will be disappointed when a stock banshee setup well will fly by you. But I hope you build a nice bike good luck. Sorry to be harsh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikechief Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 (edited) just putting a 4mil crank in some stock jugs and using a think HG isn't the proper way to build it. without correcting the port timing that's what the pistons are for silly .......dude wanted cheap that's as cheap as it gets Edited January 16, 2012 by mikechief Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 4mm SHORT rod crank- $375 .080" copper head gasket- $35 vito's superstock pistons- $160 misc. Bullshit/shipping-$100 being able to (unless they have a motor built by a pro) whomp your buddies ...priceless This is simular to my son's except long rod and regular Weisco pistons. It's not an arm ripper by most standards but it's a very tractable trail setup. If you need a crank anyways it's a good option. His is down right now for a new crank, is going back together same way unless he changes his mind. I will be dropping port floors for the 4mil, but not much else. Just remember, no matter what you have there is ALWAYS someone faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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