jamebo Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 Hey guys, I'm having some electrical issues with my bike and I'm not real savvy in that department. Bike started running on one cylinder, and now has stopped running all together. It has weak/intermittent spark. I checked the stator and the pickup coil with an analog multimeter. I had it on the ten times setting. The ignition tested at one and a half ohms, the pickup at about nine ohms. I read that the stator should be anywhere from 13.7 to 20.5, with the pickup being in the range of 94 to 140 I think it was. Is my stator or pickup coil bad? Multiplied by ten it would be fifteen on the stator and ninety on the pickup coil. Or am I multiplying when I shouldn't, meaning the stator is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04zSpittinKlotz Posted December 29, 2011 Report Share Posted December 29, 2011 I'm not sure on the ohms, havent had to do it yet. but just a guess, is your tors still hooked up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 This thread should tell you everything you need to know about the electrical system on the Banshee including what your stator should test at. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=133650 Ignition coil should be 13.7-20.5 Ohms (red to green wire) Pickup coil should be 94-140 Ohms (white/red to white/green wire) Pickup coil gap: 0.015"-0.020" Q#29:How do I test the Ignition Coil on the Stator? A#29:Using an ohmmeter and the specifications above, check the resistance between the red wire and the green wire on the four-wire harness coming out of the stator. Find the four-wire connector (usually white), at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of the bike. Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector and disconnect the two connector halves. Take a look at the wire on the connector towards the front of the bike, it should run under the carbs and into the left-hand side of the motor’s bottom end. That is the connector you want to test. On the back side of the connector where the wires enter, locate the red and green wires. Set your ohmmeter to test resistance (and the correct range if you need to), and touch one test lead to the terminal on the red wire, and the other test lead on the terminal on the green wire. Your ohmmeter should read between 13.7 and 20.5 Ohms, so if it reads 15 Ohms your stator ignition coil is OK, if it reads “- -“ or infinite Ohms or anything less than 13.7 or more than 20.5, then the stator is shot. Q#30:How do I test the Pickup Coil? A#30:Same as above Q#29, except you will be testing between the red & white wire and the green & white wire in the four-wire connector. You should have between 94 and 140 Ohms between these two wires. An important note is that the pickup coil needs to have the correct gap between it and the flywheel tabs. To check the gap, rotate the flywheel until one of the tabs on the outside lines up with the pickup coil (either by hand or by moving the kickstarter slowly). The gap should be between 0.015" and 0.020", if you need to adjust the gap loosen the two small phillips-head screws where the pickup coil mounts and relocate it, then retighten the screws. If you’re in a real bind, you can use a matchbook cover to check the gap, it’s about the same thickness. Just like adjusting valves on a 4-stroke motor, the feeler gauge should slide easily into the gap with just the slightest drag, it should not be a bitch to cram the feeler gauge in there (that’s too tight!) and you shouldn’t be able to bounce the feeler gauge back and forth inside the gap (too loose!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 I'm not sure on the ohms, havent had to do it yet. but just a guess, is your tors still hooked up? Yes the tors are still there. I've been meaning to eliminate them, but haven't gotten around to it yet. They could be causing a problem with it, but I'm wanting to make sure my ignition and pickup coils are working right too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 I appreciate the response Andrew. That's actually the info I was going by when testing, but what I'm uncertain about is if I'm reading the tester correctly. The instructions on the multimeter say to multiply the reading by ten for the final reading. Does multiplying count as the final reading, or does the initial reading on the meter have to be in the range of what the article calls for for it to be good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIDEF Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 did you come across the Ohm meter-How To about halfway down the page in the link that Andrew gave you. if not its got some decent info on how the meter works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 I have never had to do math when I test for resistance, hope this clears it up. That link should explain everything if you have any other questions. Q#27:How do I use an Ohmmeter to test resistance? A#27:To test resistance, set the meter to “Ohms”, if several ranges are available on your meter select the one closest to what you are looking for. For example, if you’re testing the ignition coil of the stator, set the meter to read 10-100 Ohms. Then touch one test lead to each of the terminals that the wire color you’re looking for is attached to (in the ignition coil example, put one test lead on the terminal for the red wire and the other test lead on the green wire’s terminal), then read the meter to tell how many Ohms of resistance are between the two test leads. When testing resistance, it DOESN’T matter which color test lead you put where, like continuity you are just testing how much, if any, electricity can flow through. In a Banshee application, there are no components (other than inside the CDI) that you can test that will matter which way electricity can flow. So in the example, it doesn’t matter if you put the black test lead on the green wire or the red wire, or the red test lead on the green or red wire, the results will be the same. Again, be careful with the connector terminals and don’t test resistance with the motor running! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 did you come across the Ohm meter-How To about halfway down the page in the link that Andrew gave you. if not its got some decent info on how the meter works. Yes I read that, and I agree it does have a lot of helpful info in it. When I touch the meter rods to the red and green connectors on the stator plug, my meter reads one and a half ohm, and I have it set at ten times. The electrical article says the reading should be 13.7 to 20.5 for the stator to be good. If I multiply 1.5 by ten it would add up to 15, meaning the stator is good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Yes I read that, and I agree it does have a lot of helpful info in it. When I touch the meter rods to the red and green connectors on the stator plug, my meter reads one and a half ohm, and I have it set at ten times. The electrical article says the reading should be 13.7 to 20.5 for the stator to be good. If I multiply 1.5 by ten it would add up to 15, meaning the stator is good? You should not need to do any math, what the meter reads is what you have unless you are on the wrong setting. I would say your stator is bad, but I am not an electical wiz, I just know that everytime I use my meter, it reads true to the actual resistance without needing to do any math. I am sure someone with a bit more knowledge will chime in here soon, I could be totally wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Thanks for the reply, Andrew. So the initial reading is what counts. Well, looks like I'll be changing out the stator and pickup coil. Thanks for the input and information guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamebo Posted December 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 Man dang, I just checked Alba for a factory stator assembly and they want 400 bones for an oem one! I would go with a Ricky Stator for a lot cheaper, but I've heard that they aren't too great. Does anybody know where I could get a new factory one for any cheaper than Alba? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted December 30, 2011 Report Share Posted December 30, 2011 In the wanted section on this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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