Jump to content

Squish


willaduncan

Recommended Posts

spark plug method has been workin all these yrs.banshee motors arent exactly high tech.not building airplane engines.so what if its pl opr minus .000000000001.thats the equivalient of reading to different calipers.

 

If your building a good high-quality engine, you would be concerned with a few thousandths difference in your dome profile. I've seen as much as .005 and .006" of difference between doing it the incorrect way and the correct way. Any tard-monkey can slap one of these engines together. Its the little stuff that separates the good running ones from the average joe's engine.

Edited by BigRed350x
Link to comment
Share on other sites

one way i have done squish test is to slide 2 peices of solder into the plug hole, one on each side. this way if your using stock headgasket and you dont have a spare as long as your squish is what your wanting your ready to go. your essentially doing the same thing to keep the piston from wobbling side to side. also for op and squish, its my understanding that the closer the head is to the piston and the larger squish band area % the more velocity the fuel charge will have towards the plug. as this velocity increases it can also put enough force and heat on the charge to pre ignite it. as your squish band area gets smaller the tighter your squish can be say .040" on a given fuel and trapped compression ratio without detonating, this would be for mostly topend power i think. however if you open this area up say .060" or so that you are using and a larger squish band area the power will come on sooner and generally still be able to keep the topend rev out power and still be able to run the same fuel and trapped compression ratio.. also i did once set my squish to around .030" once.. it was not a good thing. haha i realise this is a contraversal subject and there are many variable involved but maybe this will get some more input on the subject. so did you get the motor together and running??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it was up and running until the timing key got sheared idk how but oh well easy fix

 

You did not have your flywheel torqued on properly. The crank spins inside the taper on the flywheel and your key gets sheared. Follow the steps outlined in your clymer manual for torq'ing your flywheel nut & it will resolve your problem.

 

- Jared

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You did not have your flywheel torqued on properly. The crank spins inside the taper on the flywheel and your key gets sheared. Follow the steps outlined in your clymer manual for torq'ing your flywheel nut & it will resolve your problem.

 

- Jared

 

I like to use a little lock-tite on mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...