jd250r Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 I just got a set of PWK28s myself so I'm really curious to see where this goes. Correct me if I'm wrong (anybody) on any of when I'm comanting on below here... I've always gone up to 6th hold til max speed, then pull in the clutch and kill it. Never heard of only going to fourth. Maybe the lean reading isn't accurate? Need new float valves? the float height should be checked without full float pressure on the needle - sort of with the float hanging at a little less than vertical if you know what I mean? Body should start vertical and then tilt it down 'til the float just starts to press against the needle? Yeah I laid the carbs over just to were the float touched the needle. My float valves dont have the metal wire piece that holds them to the float if that makes sense, they just sit in the port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 (edited) I dont have much room to get in over 4th pinned. Ive done it this way with my 250rs and have always had good luck. I use a parking lot/street in an industrial park on Sunday mornings so it's guaranteed to be empty. Any chance you've got something like that around you somewhere? Or a service road along a RR track or something? Edited November 10, 2011 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Are you looking at the smoke ring at the base of the porcelain? A new plug when jetted correctly will have white porcelain but will have the very distinct ring when chopped. The porcelain will still be white. Just thought i'd ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd250r Posted November 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Worked on it pretty late last night and think I got it. I took the intake and reeds out, cleaned all surfaces, replaced gaskets, and resealed the intake. Played with the floats again. Went and rode it. Was able to get 5th pinned for a short distance and shut it off. Pulled the plugs and chopped them. Have a distinct tan line now at the base but both plugs have a larger dark brown almost black spot on them. Am I too rich now? I need to play with the needles now, not very crisp in the mid-range but low end and topend seems pretty close. Starts 2nd kick and idles great. Thanks for all the help guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Atwh is your jetting at? If you don't get any stuttering your probobly good. I would ride it like that for a few hrs and recheck the plugs and if theey get black then maybe go 1 leaner on main. Glad u got it running better :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadarRacing Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Atwh is your jetting at? If you don't get any stuttering your probobly good. I would ride it like that for a few hrs and recheck the plugs and if theey get black then maybe go 1 leaner on main. Glad u got it running better :-) Not at all how to jet a bike. Lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surfrjag Posted November 10, 2011 Report Share Posted November 10, 2011 Your right and that's already been covered in this thread.. did that help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jd250r Posted November 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2011 Well I moved the needle clips up on notch and went and rode it. Ran really good. Turned around and headed back to the shop. Started going through the gears, then all of the sudden, NO clutch. So I babied it back to the shop. Was hoping the cable just broke. Nope, the push rod, ball bearing and stock pusher bearing all welded together. Got the the pusher bearing and ball bearing out, cant get the push rod out. Looks like I get to tear into the motor now. Sad thing is I bought a Cascade pancake bearing last week and was waiting to get the bike running correctly before I put it in. Guess I should have done that first. If it wasnt for bad luck, I swear Id have none at all. Thanks for the help guys. Anyone know a good way to get the clutch push rod out without having to open up the engine?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Well I moved the needle clips up on notch and went and rode it. Ran really good. Turned around and headed back to the shop. Started going through the gears, then all of the sudden, NO clutch. So I babied it back to the shop. Was hoping the cable just broke. Nope, the push rod, ball bearing and stock pusher bearing all welded together. Got the the pusher bearing and ball bearing out, cant get the push rod out. Looks like I get to tear into the motor now. Sad thing is I bought a Cascade pancake bearing last week and was waiting to get the bike running correctly before I put it in. Guess I should have done that first. If it wasnt for bad luck, I swear Id have none at all. Thanks for the help guys. Anyone know a good way to get the clutch push rod out without having to open up the engine?? Man, that really sucks! I've heard of it happening but (luckily), it never happened to me. Is the rod siezed to something? If so, you might wanna try drilling and tapping it about an inch deep. Then you can get a screw into it and (hopefully) pull it out? Of course if it's not seized, you can just turn the bike up on it's side and it'll fall out . Just going through the drilling and tapping might break it loose, best of luck! let us know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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