SonOfSand Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Hey guys, I am having a no spark issue with my friends banshee, I have tested or replaced everything but the CDI. Is there any chance the flywheel could be bad? I have an extra one laying around, wonder if it is worth the time to install, or is it not possible cause? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Hey guys, I am having a no spark issue with my friends banshee, I have tested or replaced everything but the CDI. Is there any chance the flywheel could be bad? I have an extra one laying around, wonder if it is worth the time to install, or is it not possible cause? Thanks. yes.. they can go bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004LEBanshee Posted October 28, 2011 Report Share Posted October 28, 2011 Hold it close to your ear and shake it. If you hear the magnets rattling around its probably bad. It will sound like sand. If you dropped it or hit it with anything it will bust them loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 Or if you use a jaw puller it will bend them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted October 29, 2011 Report Share Posted October 29, 2011 is ur tors brain box still connected?if so unplug it and check for spark again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judge1 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 (edited) Man, am I glad I came across this post! I have been chasing a hard starting, some times no starting banshee for a year! My bike is newly rebulilt and still giving me a pain in the ass with random spark. I pulled off the flywheel the other day and was ready to drop $300 on new oem stator untill I saw this thread. The engine is new by fast and yes the carbs are dialed in. My setup is in my sig for info. I have the loose sand sound in the flywheel. My question is, is the flywheel most llikely the problem or should I replace the stator while I am at it? Last time I ran the bike it ran for a day and then would not start the next day, not even pull start. I have done several visual spark tests and sometimes it sparks, sometimes it doesn't. I even had one side sparking and not the other. I am sold on the new oem stator if that is the problem because I don't believe in buying used electronics. Where can I get a quality flywheel? The new oem ones are a rip off! Thanks guys! p.s. the coil is new. Edited October 30, 2011 by Judge1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 30, 2011 Report Share Posted October 30, 2011 Man, am I glad I came across this post! I have been chasing a hard starting, some times no starting banshee for a year! My bike is newly rebulilt and still giving me a pain in the ass with random spark. I pulled off the flywheel the other day and was ready to drop $300 on new oem stator untill I saw this thread. The engine is new by fast and yes the carbs are dialed in. My setup is in my sig for info. I have the loose sand sound in the flywheel. My question is, is the flywheel most llikely the problem or should I replace the stator while I am at it? Last time I ran the bike it ran for a day and then would not start the next day, not even pull start. I have done several visual spark tests and sometimes it sparks, sometimes it doesn't. I even had one side sparking and not the other. I am sold on the new oem stator if that is the problem because I don't believe in buying used electronics. Where can I get a quality flywheel? The new oem ones are a rip off! Thanks guys! p.s. the coil is new. Dont buy a ricky stator or any other non oem flywheel. You can see the rust coming out of the flywheel where the rivits have loosend up. One rivit head sheared off. Stuck to the outside of the flywheel and took out the pickup coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Ok guys, took the fly wheel off to inspect and realized my friend installed fly wheel with no wood ruff key. Could this create a no spark situation? I don't see how it could, the timing would be off, but is that it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted October 31, 2011 Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 Ok guys, took the fly wheel off to inspect and realized my friend installed fly wheel with no wood ruff key. Could this create a no spark situation? I don't see how it could, the timing would be off, but is that it? i believe it could,but only really if the crank was spinning and the flywheel wasnt,but with the nut tight it shouldnt spin that much at all. ive heard of people with go kart racing engines not using woodruff key,but lapping the flywheel to crank. definately put it back in. do u still have the tors brain connected over the left pipe???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SonOfSand Posted October 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2011 i believe it could,but only really if the crank was spinning and the flywheel wasnt,but with the nut tight it shouldnt spin that much at all. ive heard of people with go kart racing engines not using woodruff key,but lapping the flywheel to crank. definately put it back in. do u still have the tors brain connected over the left pipe???? The tors brain is disconnected. Is that all you have to do to eliminate tors? I agree about the fly wheel slipping, but I think the nut was tight enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted November 1, 2011 Report Share Posted November 1, 2011 The tors brain is disconnected. Is that all you have to do to eliminate tors? I agree about the fly wheel slipping, but I think the nut was tight enough. yes not having the key in there would be a huge problem, just a smidge off could be a ton of degrees. Theres a reason the key is in there, install key reassemble, check bike, if problem prosists then continue diagnosis! Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 the taper should hold the flywheel in place. I still would never install a flywheel with no key. When ever you change flywheels you should lap the new flywheel to the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judge1 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 the taper should hold the flywheel in place. I still would never install a flywheel with no key. When ever you change flywheels you should lap the new flywheel to the crank. I bit the bullet and ordered a new oem flywheel! What does lap the flywheel mean? You are going to be my new source of info, we have the the same bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 lapping a flywheel is what is done to ensure a "as close to perfect fit as possible." There are products out there that are called lapping compound.....basically it is a gritty paste that you apply to the inside of the flywheel or the shaft (without the key) and then you twist the flywheel on the shaft. when i say twist i mean you want to purposely have the shaft stay stationary while you twist it back and forth. What it does is very slightly machine off a very small amount to knock down the high spots.....which will allow the flywheel to fully seat itself on the shaft for optimal surface contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judge1 Posted November 2, 2011 Report Share Posted November 2, 2011 (edited) lapping a flywheel is what is done to ensure a "as close to perfect fit as possible." There are products out there that are called lapping compound.....basically it is a gritty paste that you apply to the inside of the flywheel or the shaft (without the key) and then you twist the flywheel on the shaft. when i say twist i mean you want to purposely have the shaft stay stationary while you twist it back and forth. What it does is very slightly machine off a very small amount to knock down the high spots.....which will allow the flywheel to fully seat itself on the shaft for optimal surface contact. Thanks for the hellp, now here comes the next dumb question! How the hell do I hold the crank still? Put the nut on and hold with socket wrench? Edited November 2, 2011 by Judge1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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