Schweet97Z Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 This will be my first time doing a cool head. Is there a how to for this? Im not stupid, but from everything I read the O rings can be tricky, etc. I just want to be sure im doing it right. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 This will be my first time doing a cool head. Is there a how to for this? Im not stupid, but from everything I read the O rings can be tricky, etc. I just want to be sure im doing it right. Thanks in advance. For the O-Rings just use a little grease on the O-ring to keep them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zwiser Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 use chap stick, it melts away after it heats up, so it wont get in your coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotta_goatsfast Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 I have tacky assembly lube that I use to fill the o-ring groove before inserting the o-ring. Its pretty straight forward. A "how to" would consist of this... Some pipes don't let you get into your top end. If this is the case remove the gas tank. Drain coolant from engine. Remove coolant hoses and remove nuts. Slide off stock head. Assemble both halves of the cool head including o-rings and domes on a flat surface. Screw two old spark plugs in your domes loosely. Pick up cool head by spark plugs (so it stays assembled as a unit) and drop over studs. Torque to recommended specs and its a good idea to use never sieze on the studs. (do it in a few passes). Top off coolant and assemble any other pieces that you removed to access the head. Do a compression check. RIDE! *If you have a pro-design head you'll need to "double nut" the old studs to remove them and install longer pro-design specific studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted October 19, 2011 Report Share Posted October 19, 2011 x2 about what gotta_gofast said......the only thing else i might do is a leakdown test......but its only cause im a little crazy when it comes to wanting everything to be perfect when im assembling my stuff..... but in order to do a leakdown your gonna have to pull your carbs and also pull your exhaust off the bike.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700vflash Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 I have damaged a few stud o-rings putting a FAST head on in one piece, just giving you a heads up and something to watch for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Use Vasoline on the o rings. Do not use any assembly lube or grease. It can plug the radiator, vasoline will melt and disperse. What kind of head do you have. If it is a two pice head then do it this way. Put vasoline on the combustion o rings. Put them in the domes. Then set the dome over the cylinder bore. Do the same for the other side. Put vasoline on the o rings that seal up the out side of the coolant passages of the cylinders. Then slide the shell down over the studs and domes. Make sure you line the domes up with the locating fingers with the notch in the dome. Then vasoline the small orings that go over the studs. Place all those o rings in place. Finally vasoline the smaller o rings that seal the top of the dome and the larg one that seals the out side of the top plate. Place them in the grooves and put the top plate on. It is much easer to install a cool head piece by piece than to install the whole thing trying to keep all the o rings in place. That is a huge advantage of a two piece cool head. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schweet97Z Posted October 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Its a Pro Design Head. Thanks for all the pointers. I will let you know how I make out once it gets here. How much compression should I have with 17cc domes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakar Posted October 20, 2011 Report Share Posted October 20, 2011 Its a Pro Design Head. Thanks for all the pointers. I will let you know how I make out once it gets here. How much compression should I have with 17cc domes? compression depends on your altitude , there's a chart on the noss site http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm im guessing youll be quite high prob race gas high ,is your crank welded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schweet97Z Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 compression depends on your altitude , there's a chart on the noss site http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm im guessing youll be quite high prob race gas high ,is your crank welded? I saw that on Noss's website, but there is no specs for 17cc. I do plan to run race gas. No the crank is not welded and trued. Im guessing your thinking its at the point to where it should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) I saw that on Noss's website, but there is no specs for 17cc. I do plan to run race gas. No the crank is not welded and trued. Im guessing your thinking its at the point to where it should be? well if your running over 185-190 psi of compression your actually doing more damage than good. When you start to go overboard you decrease the top end due to the more force required to compress the air and fuel. If you running at 5000+ feet elevation your probably fine but you didn't state what your altitude is. I also wouldnt run race gas domes on a non welded crank. It puts a lot more stress on the crank and can cause it to twist out of phase, or seperate. Edited October 21, 2011 by jbooker82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schweet97Z Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Im about 1100 feet above sea level. What CC domes would you recommend. And I should, say what is the last size dome you can use before you go race gas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Im about 1100 feet above sea level. What CC domes would you recommend. And I should, say what is the last size dome you can use before you go race gas? GET YOUR CRANK WELDED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My crank let go with nothing more than a set of pipes on it. The more power you make, the more likely your crank will let go. I would stay with 21 or 22cc domes if you want to stay with pump gas. The ProDesign head is a pain to install because you have to change the studs. If I were you, I would send the whole thing back and order a Noss head with 22cc domes and be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schweet97Z Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 GET YOUR CRANK WELDED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My crank let go with nothing more than a set of pipes on it. The more power you make, the more likely your crank will let go. I would stay with 21 or 22cc domes if you want to stay with pump gas. The ProDesign head is a pain to install because you have to change the studs. If I were you, I would send the whole thing back and order a Noss head with 22cc domes and be good to go. I practically got the head for free thats why im using it. If you guys think im going to run into problems, then ill just let it the way it is for now. It runs very good the way it is now. So ill just let what is good be until it needs a rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted October 22, 2011 Report Share Posted October 22, 2011 I would run the stock head until you get your crank welded, unless you want to buy a set of pump gas domes. If your wanting to run race fuel weld the crank and I wold probably run 18cc domes at 1000 ft elevation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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