Drturbodiesel Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 In a quest to find out what's wrong with my shee I read forums and consulted local mechanics and I see both sides of the story. On here I read to check compression by installing guage holding throttle and kicking to max psi. That's what I did. I thought I found my problem by that test. Today I bumped into a retired Honda tech and explained what I done and my results. His reply was those numbers don't mean nothing cause all I was testing was above the ports. So concerned but yet seeing some logic in what he said I went to another cycle repair shop and explained to him what I had done and what the Honda tech said. His responce was well that's kinda correct but not totally. Is there no other way to 100percent verify engine condition besides teardown? I honestly think everybody is rite to a certain extent. I usually like to rule out base engine problems before futher diagnosis. Doesent seem to be any real way to on this application or it just depends on who you ask . Your opinions and recomendations are welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 First off, this is a Banshee specific forum. We have seen every problem that could ever possibly arise with a Banshee. That said, your Honda mechanic's opinion holds little to no weight with anyone on this forum. Now, what is the issue you're having? If there was another thread on this I didn't see it. Try to be as detailed as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 First off, this is a Banshee specific forum. We have seen every problem that could ever possibly arise with a Banshee. That said, your Honda mechanic's opinion holds little to no weight with anyone on this forum. Now, what is the issue you're having? If there was another thread on this I didn't see it. Try to be as detailed as possible. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=146988 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 In a quest to find out what's wrong with my shee I read forums and consulted local mechanics and I see both sides of the story. On here I read to check compression by installing guage holding throttle and kicking to max psi. That's what I did. I thought I found my problem by that test. Today I bumped into a retired Honda tech and explained what I done and my results. His reply was those numbers don't mean nothing cause all I was testing was above the ports. So concerned but yet seeing some logic in what he said I went to another cycle repair shop and explained to him what I had done and what the Honda tech said. His responce was well that's kinda correct but not totally. Is there no other way to 100percent verify engine condition besides teardown? I honestly think everybody is rite to a certain extent. I usually like to rule out base engine problems before futher diagnosis. Doesent seem to be any real way to on this application or it just depends on who you ask . Your opinions and recomendations are welcome. You could do a leakdown test to verify your rings and seals and gaskets. As was asked, what prpblems are you having? As loco said this is a Banshee site and almost every problem that you could have has been discussed on here already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drturbodiesel Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I can't see how a leakdown test as done on banshees by pressurizing the entire crankase could possibly tell anything about piston and ring condition. I do see where it could find possible vaccum leaks on seals and gaskets. If u were to do a automotive style leakdown test it would not b accurate due to ports and defenintly blow all your oil seals. Anyway my banshee is spitting/ misfiring out the right cyl on transition from off idle to midrange rpm. Idles fine starts fine great upper rpm pull. I will not tolarate anything but perfection from any of my machines cause I'm OCD like that. And I do love this banshee only had it a week but it's going to act rite wheather it likes it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 If your that worried about it, just tear it apart and see whats up with it. It literally takes about 2hrs and would cost ya $15 for a base gasket and $20 for an o-ring kit if you have a cool head. Slap your compression tester in there, hold the throttle wide open and kick it over until the gauge flat-lines and stops building. That's your static. Tell us what size domes and what type of porting you have and we can give you a good idea of if you're in a safe range from your static reading. but if your in doubt, just tear it apart and check it out. I would say the honda guy is retarded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DallasGDub Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 I was talking to a car guy once about a leakdown test, and we were both like WTF..... He had no idea what a leakdown would do for a 2 stroke and I had no idea what a leakdown test was used for on a 4 stroke.....lol... It should just be called "air leak test" on the smoker. Really it is just another tool like the compression tester to help diagnose a problem, not a problem solver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) The proper way would be to keep a log / records. That way you know what it started out as, and how far, and fast it has gone down. Edited September 14, 2011 by jbooker82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drturbodiesel Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Left cyl 130 after approx 5 kicks right cyl 120 after approx 10 kicks. It wanted to dwell around 112 but did max out at 120. Spitting problem is on right cyl. Bone stock everything . If throttle is held slightly above idle in netural u can hear that side poof/spit out pipe and sounds like it's preigniting at engine to me. Have checked for external vaccum leaks with wd40 and none found. Plugs look the same and kinda fat. I plan to clean and sync carbs set idle air to base setting install new plugs and retest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigRed350x Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 stock everything that doesn't sound too bad for compression. 10% difference between cylinders is acceptable. Check your jetting and do a plug chop. If you did a leak-down test and its all good, compression looks ok for an all stock engine, move on to jetting and ignition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donkeypuncher Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Sounds like a jetting/carb problem. Maybe junk in your right carb that's interrupring fuel flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 (edited) 10 psi difference is to much imo,sounds like the 120 side is going out faster,maybe not be whats causin your problem,but to me it would be a definite concern Edited September 14, 2011 by Burt Reynolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drturbodiesel Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 The proper way would be to keep a log / records. That way you know what it started out as, and how far, and fast it has gone down. today makes a week i have had this machine or i promise i would have data to compare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drturbodiesel Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 10 psi difference is to much imo,sounds like the 120 side is going out faster,maybe not be whats causin your problem,but to me it would be a definite concern i appricate your imput bro i have mixed opinions and i really dont know wich one to go off of. like i said i have only had the bike a week and have not even paid for it yet. it will run correctly on both sides or i will not have it. just hate to start a rebuild before i even pay for the bike its self. have always wanted a banshee got to say i am somewhat dissapointed in my first experience but i will also admit i loose patitents. i only hope that if i ever get it rite it will stay that way as much as i take care of things and as ticky as i am. thanks again to all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 The spitting and sputtering could be caused by the carbs being out of sync with each other as well. 10% difference in cyl static compression would have me close to re ringing it as well. And your Honda guy was right. Static compression check is only meant to check piston rings ability to seal and the result will be effected if you have a leak in the head. It is not intended to give you any kind of compression ratio and as jbooker said, the best process is to check after a rebuild, re check after break in, and re check periodically while keeping a log. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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