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Could everyone be wrong?


Drturbodiesel

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Left cyl 130 after approx 5 kicks right cyl 120 after approx 10 kicks. It wanted to dwell around 112 but did max out at 120. Spitting problem is on right cyl. Bone stock everything . If throttle is held slightly above idle in netural u can hear that side poof/spit out pipe and sounds like it's preigniting at engine to me. Have checked for external vaccum leaks with wd40 and none found. Plugs look the same and kinda fat. I plan to clean and sync carbs set idle air to base setting install new plugs and retest.

 

A leak down test will verify there are no airl eaks and a compression test will verify the condition of the top end.THAT IS IT!,there is nothing else! If they both are within spec,I would look elsewhere.

 

Granted your carbs are in sync,jetting and fuel screws are the same.i would say the cylinder that is spitting has a bad reed petal.it is probably cracked,split or opened up a bit.If alll things check out on the carb,then go to that reed cage.

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You could do a leakdown test to verify your rings and seals and gaskets. As was asked, what prpblems are you having? As loco said this is a Banshee site and almost every problem that you could have has been discussed on here already.

 

a leak down will in no way verify the rings. Only the seals, gaskets and o-rings if applicable.

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I would check the carbs for jet size and to make sure they are not clogged and make sure the float is correct, and make sure there in sync. when you push the throttle they must both open at the same time and even. good luck you got to remember half of the fun with a banshee is working on it..!!!

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I didn't see anyone suggest this and if I am being redundant, oh well...

 

There is a black tube(choke tube) that connects to the 2 carbs. Make sure that is on there, then check to see if it is ripped, cracked, etc

 

 

2 pages for someone to finally suggest this?

 

Your checking for major issues before ruling out the simplest things, like carb sync, choke tube, unplug tors, clean carbs. Also, not sure if WD40 will find an air leak, its not that volatile.. Carb/brake cleaner is what is used. I could be wrong.

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Ok guys fist off thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I pulled the carburator off the side I am having problems with and amazingly it was the cleanest carb I have ever seen on anything. Went ahead and cleaned it anyway. Reinstalled it. Checked reeds while I had carb off they were fine. Carbs were bad outa sync. Repaired that installed new plugs and tested for vaccum leak with starting fluid. Runs alot more even than it did but problem is still present. So I'm sure it's due to the low compression on that side. I'm probably goin to ride it a few more times and go ahead and pull her down and freshen top end up. Is 6 years old it's time anyway. I really feel like I got a good bike all things aside. I hear it's hard to find one that's not ever been into and even has stock tires chain and sprockets on top of that. I really love this bike plan on being a part of this forum a long time.

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Ok guys fist off thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I pulled the carburator off the side I am having problems with and amazingly it was the cleanest carb I have ever seen on anything. Went ahead and cleaned it anyway. Reinstalled it. Checked reeds while I had carb off they were fine. Carbs were bad outa sync. Repaired that installed new plugs and tested for vaccum leak with starting fluid. Runs alot more even than it did but problem is still present. So I'm sure it's due to the low compression on that side. I'm probably goin to ride it a few more times and go ahead and pull her down and freshen top end up. Is 6 years old it's time anyway. I really feel like I got a good bike all things aside. I hear it's hard to find one that's not ever been into and even has stock tires chain and sprockets on top of that. I really love this bike plan on being a part of this forum a long time.

Low compression will likely not cause a mis fire. However, out of sync carbs will. If they were a ways out of sync then I'm guessing that you didn't get them back in sync perfectly. That is really hard to do without a flow meter. It's astonishing how much more accurate you can get with a flow meter. All it takes is one time of doing it by eye and then verifying how far off you are with a measuring device to be sold on the tool. Just FYI.

 

 

SP

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compression test - test the static compression of the top end, fails this, means rings are bad or head is loose

 

leak down test - test for air air in the engine, fails this air leak somewhere through out the engine, usually at a seal or gasket.

 

this is for a 2-stroke engine

 

 

also as said 10psi is a little high

 

check to make sure your reeds are good on the lower psi side.

 

I agree, compression test check everything above the rings and the rings itself. Leak down would check the lower end seals and gaskets. I would check the reed seal on the low side. I also would check the air screw adjustment. If you screw it in and that helps then you are lean and need to check the pilot jet may be dirty or the pilot jets are too small.

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Low compression will likely not cause a mis fire. However, out of sync carbs will. If they were a ways out of sync then I'm guessing that you didn't get them back in sync perfectly. That is really hard to do without a flow meter. It's astonishing how much more accurate you can get with a flow meter. All it takes is one time of doing it by eye and then verifying how far off you are with a measuring device to be sold on the tool. Just FYI.

 

Low compression will not likley cause a misfire? I mean really come on now you should not say stuff like that to people. Some of them may be dumb enough to believe it. I don't tho. It don't even matter what type of engine low compression will always cause incomplete combustion. Just FYI

 

 

SP

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Guess your right. I was thinking more along the lines of a complete mis fire. Not just an incomplete combustion cycle. Sounds more like a fuel delivery problem to me. Bit then again, that's jsut from hearing the typed diagnosis and not hearing the engine run also.

 

 

 

SP

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well, now... don't you get a big fat fail for trying to compare testing procedures with honda and general 4stroke....... the banshee is neither. ok, here-s how it is- the testing procedure you get from this site is as such because it is reliable and proven, and many times proven problems and money down the drain as a result of deviation. so- wot, kick untill it stops moving. make sure the shrade valve is in the tip of the tester and just as long as the spark-plug. the test tells you the condition of the top-end. more then 5psi difference is bad, and you should pop her open. difference can come from stuck rings, melted or loaded pistons, different bore, uneven head, bad rod bearings bad port job....... you could also stick rings from a bad mixture loading them up with oil. and, yes, the bad compression can cause a sputter. 3 different things could be the culprit- bad plug cap(boot) carb adjustment (mixture, jet/passage, needle, or float height or valve condition) or reed seal. now, one thing- a topend will genereally run good right up untill the rings snap from being run too thin, if you keep it tuned well, but some compression drop will make the most symptoms at lower rpm's

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Thank you. I am 100 percent sure Its the uneven compression and I used this sites procedure to determine that so you guys are rite. As some guys admitted the Honda tech was rite about what this test checked for but wrong about the numbers not meaning shit. I am no idiot mysel. Just panicked when I bought a my first banshee and found somethin pretty major wrong with it. I guess I was in denial. Nobody wants there new to then bike to be fucked up from the door. But anyway I agree with last guy. At lower rpm is when the problem is most noticable because in upper rpm the pressure just flat out does not have as much time to leak by the defective/worn ring and or worn cyl. So anyway thanks to all the guys that know what the hell there talkin about. This problem is offically diagnosed now whose going to send me sum money to get it fixed. Lol I still got to finish paying for the bike itself first.

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