#1BADASSBANSHEE Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 You must prep properly, or you wont have good adhesion or you will see sandscratches, etc. Full Throttle......The spray adhesive that he is talking about, is not what you are thinking it is. It is not like the spray glue, it is a chemical that helps promote adhesion, and is lots of times called "adhesion promoter" and is generally used in a real thin mist, (like if you sprayed a mist of paint thinner) not like you would to actually glue something. The sealer and clear are totally different. Sealer is the first coat (besides the adhesion promoter) and is like a primer. It is used to "seal" the surface for the paint. The flex agent in the paint is a good idea when painting this kind of stuff, but I will also second the fact that it may crack on full fenders. Its not the fact that they aren't prepped good, its the fact that if they bend farther than the paint can stretch, it will crack. The more build you have from thickness of coats and number of coats, the thicker the coating you have, and the more likely it will be to crack. The flex agent that is used on automotive bumpers and stuff, it prevents cracking under normal usage also, but if you are in a fender bender, and the plastic gets pushed in and moved out of its original shape, the paint will crack, just as it may under a similar circumstance on a quad. Under normal usage and not wrecking, no, you should not have any problems with cracking. If you tip over your quad alot, backwards, forwards, sideways, whatever, your plastics will bend alot, and instead of getting the white stretch marks on the plastic, you will get cracked paint. For a comparison example, I would say whatever you are doing, if it will put white stretch marks in the plastic, then it will probably crack the paint. (not scientifically proven, just my rough example as to what it would take to crack) This is kinda hard to explain, but Ill try. If it is a gradual bend over a larger area, (like grabbing both ends of a car bumper and pulling them in) it spreads the flexing out through the whole area. If for example on 4 wheeler plastics, the center section is pretty rigid, as it is bolted to the quad and resting against the frame, but the fender is loose and hanging out, when you push down on it, the area closest to the frame were it is allowed to bend is usually were the problems lie, as it absorbs the majority of the flexing. Just to clarify, I am not claiming to be a "super paint expert" this info is based off of my experience, others may have different experiences or opinions, all of which may have valid points. Brian =) THAT IS VERY WELL PUT GOOD WAY OF EXPLAINING IT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 I have painted a few sets of plastic myself and I totally disagree with the cracking. I painted a set of warrior plastic and even ran it with no rear fender brackets for a long time and they flexed bad and I never had any issue with the paint cracking at all. If it is done right it will stay on no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted September 7, 2011 Report Share Posted September 7, 2011 (edited) I have painted a few sets of plastic myself and I totally disagree with the cracking. I painted a set of warrior plastic and even ran it with no rear fender brackets for a long time and they flexed bad and I never had any issue with the paint cracking at all. If it is done right it will stay on no problem. Maybe you have a better method then? What steps and products did you use? Did you ever lay it over or fall off and bend over the fender, or are you just talking about flexing from normal riding and the wind? Edit: I should make sure I clarify, that using the methods I described above, and normal automotive type applications, I am definetely not saying not to paint them, (cause I have also) I am just trying to share my experiences and making the possibilities know for those that want to do it. Depending on the quad, I would do it again in the future. Edited September 7, 2011 by 90Bansheedude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted September 10, 2011 Report Share Posted September 10, 2011 the sand prep he is talking abot is a automatics product to gojo I think the product # is ppg dx103 but I haven't used that in a long time. you can just use some joy dish soap and a red scotchbright. 103 is basically rubbing alcohol. i don't know the ppg p/n because i don't buy it.... i use a general hand cleaner that has basically put "sand" in it. the soap along with scotchbrite ensures a quality prep and clean job. you know the rough feeling orange hand cleaner has in it? same principle only this (white) soap is not as aggressive chemically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted September 11, 2011 Report Share Posted September 11, 2011 Ok, this all makes more since now. 90bansheedude clerified everything pretty good. I was just wanting to learn more about how to properly attempt to paint plastics and make it look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas_S Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 could anyone paint candy red plastics with black flames down them for me ? I'd like the plastics cut like my other ones too ! Lmk thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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