BansheeDFW Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 So I decided to rebuild my own crank and had hell getting the outer main bearings off! Ended up machining a new tool to help. Going back together with hot rods connecting rods and NTN 10 ball max load bearings on all 4. What does everyone else use? Photo Album Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vifferman Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 So I decided to rebuild my own crank and had hell getting the outer main bearings off! Ended up machining a new tool to help. Going back together with hot rods connecting rods and NTN 10 ball max load bearings on all 4. What does everyone else use? Photo Album A new crank. Probably much cheaper to rebuild your own. How much is it to do it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDFW Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Haha very true! That question was mainly for the people who rebuild their own cranks. Ill end up having about $350 in it after welding. But that is including all new gaskets and seals, and max load bearings. Most trued and welded cranks with max load bearings go for around $500+ not including gaskets and seals. Plus I wanted to learn how to do it myself and like knowing what exactly is in my bottom end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 A puller. A press. A little heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDFW Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 A puller. A press. A little heat. What puller do you use? I had trouble with the flat flange one I had because it couldn't get under the bearing enough and bent the tabs trying to get on of the bearings off. I have a press and have definitely put a few things in the oven and or freezer to get them apart. Any other alignment fixtures or tools used? I am making a fixture to keep everything in phase and to get the press height right. Also have some gauge blocks and indicators to check phasing. Just curious what tools anyone else uses? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 i'd like to see the fixture for phasing.. i've been thinking the same thing.. i used to do a few cranks back in the day mostly made the press pins, and heated them up and froze other parts, 20 ton press. i have a PILE of stockers that have varing problems i think between them all i have about 2-4 good cranks that need redone.. i used the bearing remover. you have to walk the bearing off a tad then install the remover. if your not going to reuse the bearing i dont worry about heating it too much. sometimes they stick really bad adn take a lil "help" nobody usually wants to share the crank knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDFW Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 Cam I hear ya! I have done plenty of single cylinder cranks but this is my first banshee crank. I ruined my flange puller like rocky mountain sells trying to get one of mine off. The puller I made pulled it off with no heat like it was nothing! It also doesn't contact the crank! I'm going to make a few fixtures as I go through this crank and will keep you updated with some pics and vids if I can. I see a lot of info on this site but nothing on cranks? So I'll share the info on my rebuild as best I can. More to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 that would be excellent!! with the lead time on stocker cranks getting rebuilt at about 2-5 months and the current crap being offer'd i have been wanting to go back to doing my own for the local riders.. i'd be interested in a few jigs for sure. would make things much easier and faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 i've looked at some of this stuff wish i had a mill i'd just build it custom for these cranks! http://www.rvservicetools.com/online-tools-catalog.html?page=shop.browse&category_id=5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 regular clamshell bearing splitter/puller....... remember, it is also a splitter, not just a puller. do it all the time on all kinds of bearings. back it against something solid, like a heavy steel table/bench, or metal blocks if you don't have it. then, hammer it in there as you tighten and it will "split" the bearing away from the crank seat enough to safely pull it off with a t-puller...... i was actually going with the same rout of all max-load bearings on my lower rpm 4mill, but found out that it is usually a bad idea, because they are too rigid and can damage the crank. also, 7-8ballers are a little better for higher rpm's. "max-loads" or any brand maximum capacity you put on there usually has a max speed well under 9k. actually, even the 7-ball bearings see rpm's higher than they are rated, but not usually sustained much at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDFW Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 AKheathen I tried the splitter method and was concerned about the force it was taking and being against the crank. One of the bearings was really on there! I have read about max loads and tz style bearings quite a bit up to this point and only the only concern was about oiling. I'm surprised by your post. Im not sure what rpm your running but the "max load" and TZ style bearings both have higher rpm ratings over the standard 7 ball types. Check NTN or NSK specs for the 305NR vs the max load BL305NR vs the TZ style NJ305. Standard 7-ball 305NR = 10,600 max rpm Max Load 10 ball BL305NR = 12,000 max rpm TZ style roller NJ305 = 14,000 max rpm Not to mention I feel a lot better using a quality bearing out of Japan vs a Taiwan or China bearing! I'm going to put in the BL305NRs on all 4 and give them a try. It probably isn't that big a deal anyway as the rod bearings seem to be the weak link in the long run....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 i don't remember where i read, but i also did allot of research on them, and there is different ratings for several different operating conditions. not only having to do with lubrication and load, but cooling as well. just what my research finally came to in the banshee application. i do agree about the rod bearings. i tried to get some hd rod bearings on there with more pins that were also wider, but time ran short. i can't remember, but i believe it's twister that has them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDFW Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Got the whole crank pressed apart today without a problem. Waiting on my new set of rods and bearings to arrive and i'll update with the whole process soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BansheeDFW Posted August 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Im starting another thread for this. I hoping to put together a whole crankshaft rebuild walk through. I know it is not something your average person will tackle, but I hope it will help anyone like me who wants to learn and do it themselves. I couldn't find any videos or information on rebuilding a banshee crank here or on the web. Maybe it will get a sticky when I am done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 i'll be reading it i'm really intersted in the phasing jig your planning on building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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