sykoman Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 I just seperated my wiesco crank to put a set of long rods on.... I trued each side from 1 1/2 - 2 thousands but now when I set the crank in the lower case half and spin it I see movement in my two center bearings.... Looks like the come together then back apart at least twice during a full revolution..... How do I adjust that? I never seperated the center just the outers?? Any experianced advise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ahead..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 I just seperated my wiesco crank to put a set of long rods on.... I trued each side from 1 1/2 - 2 thousands but now when I set the crank in the lower case half and spin it I see movement in my two center bearings.... Looks like the come together then back apart at least twice during a full revolution..... How do I adjust that? I never seperated the center just the outers?? Any experianced advise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ahead..... nothing to do with ur q but why long rod on stock stroke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykoman Posted August 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 nothing to do with ur q but why long rod on stock stroke? Kin of a long story but to make it short I ended up with a pair of 66.25 blaster pistons in stead of banshee so decided to make it a 370 long rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted August 14, 2011 Report Share Posted August 14, 2011 Kin of a long story but to make it short I ended up with a pair of 66.25 blaster pistons in stead of banshee so decided to make it a 370 long rod makes since now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykoman Posted August 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 This isn't something the average Banshee addict messes with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) The runout is actually at the outers, it just shows up at the middle because of the way the crank is supported, most likely. That is why it is worth it to let an expert true and weld it. When I watched Twister do my last crank, he checked the runout and knew right where to teak it to get it straight and had it done in no time at all. Or, you might have slightly tweaked the centers when you were pressing it apart. Edited August 16, 2011 by bansheesandrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykoman Posted August 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 guess I'm not your average addict.... lol..... Actually I'm a master certified auto tech with a banshee addiction so I don't mind learning how its done.... Thanks guess I'll be spliting it again or taking to metal tech here in Gendale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 what did that master tech stuff tell you about the cranks? there is a nice write up starting on this very subject.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sykoman Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 what did that master tech stuff tell you about the cranks? there is a nice write up starting on this very subject.. Nothing.... besides basic runout measurements. That's y I posted on here, just something that I want to go to be willing to learn.... been keeping my eye on the crank rebuilt walkthrough.... nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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