Jump to content

cobra failed me


nastyracing

Recommended Posts

Well after spending a whole day trying to track down parts locally to finish build of the shee and the frustration of having two quad but nether of them ready to ride

I have in my 1994 cobra 347 supercharged stroker. So get couple blocks away from house heading to fuel car up for a night of fun.

Well here's where everything goes wrong . Come around corner n punch it in spin grab second split second later grab third still spinning grab fourth still in a spin n looking at tach in the red cause of spinning tires kinda waiting for car to grab traction feel a slight grind threw the driveline and binding followed up by a awful sound of clanking metal like a bag caught in a fan with clanking hollow pan sound. I throw car in nuetral and finally lift out of it n car dies. Get it into parking lot n try and recrank car not luck n locked up. So after staring at sky n rain begining to pour on my self I ask my self y the fuxk does everything always break and life such a failure. I have no clue what happened to the car nor ideas towed it home n trying to forget bout the disapointment for a month.

 

So after everything wake up next day w good news of parts being located for the shee so take 2 hour ride out to Sleeper06 house in long island where bike has made tons of progress and got a little test ride at the end of day. Sleeper is the man really knows how to calm a brother down.

 

Just wanted to say thanks brotha and looking forward to picking the beaste up fully tuned

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, I like how you give us an entire paragraph on how you are beating the hell out of your car running the tach up past your engines redline and then proceed to tell us you don't know what happened or what went wrong.

 

So, here's what I assume happened. Since you stated you were only a couple of blocks out from your house, I can gather that the engine and all its fluids are not even close to operating temp. Then You ham on it all the way past redlilne with full boost and your aluminum pistons start to swell with heat. Unfortunately, the 302 block is Iron and it won't heat up as quick under these conditions. Your piston becomes bigger than the hole it reciprocates in (I hate it when that happens).

 

If it is a stock block, I would first pull the intake manifold and inspect for hairline cracks (or gaps) in the casting running down the oil valley somewhere. A stock 5.0L roller block is the lightest (yay) but weakest (boo) of the FoMoCo small blocks as far as block strength. They are known to stress and fracture down the oil valley parallel with the camshaft. Anything over 450hp-to me- is considered a ticking time bomb on a stock roller 5.0L. Anyway, after inspection, I would proceed to pull the heads and any other heavy parts followed by disconnecting the engine from the car. Pulling the heads will reveal cylinder scoring and or broken parts. Check the heads over, a white valve indicates issues in its coresponding cylinder. Then pull the block and separate the oil pan to inspect your rods and crank.

 

If this block is still able to be used, have it blueprinted and have your rotating assembly (if it is functional) balanced by a reputable shop.... and then invest in better tires/rear end/suspension components so you get traction instead of 4th gear spinning! haha, post up some pics of the carnage man.

 

Also, even if the block still measures within spec, it would be real wise to step up to an aftermarket block (unless you already have an aftermarket block, then ignore me).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, I like how you give us an entire paragraph on how you are beating the hell out of your car running the tach up past your engines redline and then proceed to tell us you don't know what happened or what went wrong.

 

So, here's what I assume happened. Since you stated you were only a couple of blocks out from your house, I can gather that the engine and all its fluids are not even close to operating temp. Then You ham on it all the way past redlilne with full boost and your aluminum pistons start to swell with heat. Unfortunately, the 302 block is Iron and it won't heat up as quick under these conditions. Your piston becomes bigger than the hole it reciprocates in (I hate it when that happens).

 

If it is a stock block, I would first pull the intake manifold and inspect for hairline cracks (or gaps) in the casting running down the oil valley somewhere. A stock 5.0L roller block is the lightest (yay) but weakest (boo) of the FoMoCo small blocks as far as block strength. They are known to stress and fracture down the oil valley parallel with the camshaft. Anything over 450hp-to me- is considered a ticking time bomb on a stock roller 5.0L. Anyway, after inspection, I would proceed to pull the heads and any other heavy parts followed by disconnecting the engine from the car. Pulling the heads will reveal cylinder scoring and or broken parts. Check the heads over, a white valve indicates issues in its coresponding cylinder. Then pull the block and separate the oil pan to inspect your rods and crank.

 

If this block is still able to be used, have it blueprinted and have your rotating assembly (if it is functional) balanced by a reputable shop.... and then invest in better tires/rear end/suspension components so you get traction instead of 4th gear spinning! haha, post up some pics of the carnage man.

 

Also, even if the block still measures within spec, it would be real wise to step up to an aftermarket block (unless you already have an aftermarket block, then ignore me).

 

this is farken hilarious, what a great description :headbang:

 

I nearly spat my beer all over my computer when i read this 'Your piston becomes bigger than the hole it reciprocates in (I hate it when that happens)'

 

sorry to hear about the cobra dood, A cobra with a big block is my dream car!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

P zero rosso on ten" factory Saleen wheels r my street tire but they suck hands down for any hp rating specialy for what I'm running. But I started digging into it and so far I'm pretty excited to find out I twisted the spline on input shaft of my tremec again and looks to have just destroyed the pressure plate. I only have half the bolts out of the lakewood bell housing things a tank to take off. Any how I've clean snapped the input shaft in two pieces the last Time on slicks so hopefuly this time around I will get a different clutxh other then the spec in there and step up the splines once again w new input shaft and go to town on her again. I will post some pics of the input shafts to show ya what I'm working w.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...