Changing Sprockets

[dmcblaster]

Hey.. Im in the process of chaning out my sprockets and was wondering if you guys re-use the factory lock washer on the front sprocket? Wondering the same about the factory lock bars on the rear sprocket. I was just thinking about putting some loctite on the threads but if its a must that i use the lock washer and bars i will.

[bigblockbanshee]

If the stuff is in decent shape I'd use it. If not just take it easy until you can get new ones. Either way I'd put Loctite on the threads if you have it. Yes, the tabs will keep the nuts from spinning but a little insurance in this area never hurts IMO. You'd be surprised how easy stuff like that backs off with the amount of vibration going on, sorta acts like an impact gun does.

[shadowbanshee]

i always re-use mine. not really a big deal but i bend the washer around all side of the nut not just one or two just to be safe. never had one come off on me yet and i dont use locktite.

[bansheesandrider]

You can reuse the front washer if it is not cracked. I usually try to replace mine everytime I do it so that if I ever have to take it apart while on a riding trip I can reuse it then. As for the rears bars, I don't even bend them, I just put the nuts on with loctite and call it good.

[bansheesrtoys]

i would re-use everything. Or for the rear get self-locking nuts. I don't like lock-tight because it makes it a hasle to take apart next time.

[bansheesandrider]

i would re-use everything. Or for the rear get self-locking nuts. I don't like lock-tight because it makes it a hasle to take apart next time.

Using blue Loctite does NOT make it a hassle to take apart next time. I have found that it actually makes it come apart easier than if I don't use it, because we ride sand and the loctite keeps the corrosion from getting in the threads and rusting things up solid.

[Jereme6655]

you CAN reuse them....however....it has to be in decent shape in order to use it. i WOULD NOT think about putting it on without the washer as ive seen in person (and blue angel has witnessed it in the midst of a right turn) what happens when your sprocket nut vibrates off. Lets just say it was a little bit of a drive for 2 of us to go back and get the truck.....and the other guy wound up having to ride back in the truck headlights.

 

We realized trying to do a trail side repair that when that nut comes off.......it chews the shit out of the threads on the nut AND the trans shaft. So long story short.......if that nut comes loose while your on it.....you're splittin the cases to replace a shaft....

[dmcblaster]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

I used the front lock washer but didnt use the rear sprocket lock bars. I used alot of blue loctite on the rear nuts. I have some engine tuning to do so ill keep a close eye on the rear sprocket between runs. Ill look into getting some locking nuts. Should I just get the ones with the plastic inserts or something different?

 

There was a topic a while back about what service manual is better and im finding more and more screw ups with the clymers manual. It says the rear sprocket nuts should be torqued at 44 ft.lbs. At first i didnt think twice about it but once i started to tighten the nuts I was like wait a min.... 44 ft.lbs seems a lil much. I ended up torquing them to 25 ft.lbs. I torqued the front sprocket to 59 ft.lbs...hopefully thats right.

 

So does anyone have a factory Yamaha shop service manual with all the correct torque specs that would be willing to scan and send me? Or is there a list somewhere on this site?

 

One more thing.... I purchased a Tusk billet case saver but once I seen how it bolted on using the tiny bolts im not sure if I like the idea. It looks like the case saver will also come into contact with the case to make it more secure. I should of done my research before ordering it but im finding out that there not such a good idea. I guess the chain can bust through the plastic ones and the billet ones can still bust the case. I would think if enough pressure would hit the billet case saver it could still crack the case and/or cause damage where it bolts with the 3 small bolts and you would still end up with a messed up case. I left it off for now but just wanting some more opinions.

[bigblockbanshee]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

I used the front lock washer but didnt use the rear sprocket lock bars. I used alot of blue loctite on the rear nuts. I have some engine tuning to do so ill keep a close eye on the rear sprocket between runs. Ill look into getting some locking nuts. Should I just get the ones with the plastic inserts or something different?

 

There was a topic a while back about what service manual is better and im finding more and more screw ups with the clymers manual. It says the rear sprocket nuts should be torqued at 44 ft.lbs. At first i didnt think twice about it but once i started to tighten the nuts I was like wait a min.... 44 ft.lbs seems a lil much. I ended up torquing them to 25 ft.lbs. I torqued the front sprocket to 59 ft.lbs...hopefully thats right.

 

So does anyone have a factory Yamaha shop service manual with all the correct torque specs that would be willing to scan and send me? Or is there a list somewhere on this site?

 

One more thing.... I purchased a Tusk billet case saver but once I seen how it bolted on using the tiny bolts im not sure if I like the idea. It looks like the case saver will also come into contact with the case to make it more secure. I should of done my research before ordering it but im finding out that there not such a good idea. I guess the chain can bust through the plastic ones and the billet ones can still bust the case. I would think if enough pressure would hit the billet case saver it could still crack the case and/or cause damage where it bolts with the 3 small bolts and you would still end up with a messed up case. I left it off for now but just wanting some more opinions.

 

IMHO when you have it in the back of your mind that the Loctite alone may fail you can't keep a clear head while riding, at least I can't. And by the time you find, use, and replace self-locking nuts or Nylock nuts you could've just gotten a fresh set of factory locking tabs and be done with it.

 

When dealing with torque figures like that on small diameter nuts and bolts you must torque them in sequential steps. Do a criss-cross pattern like you would lug nuts on a vehicle and torque them to maybe 10 first all the way around, then 20 or more, then maybe try going a little more. I'm not sure if I tried actually hitting 44 on my own but it was just easier to buzz them on with the electric impact, in a pattern of course as previously mentioned, but I made sure to use the locking tabs. As I said earlier, this isn't an area you want to skimp or slack in. This is where the locking tabs would come into play IMO. And FWIW the Yamaha manual says 43, the Clymer manual says 44. Seldom can you gauge 1 ft.-lb. difference. I haven't found many, if any, contradictions between the two manuals personally but as with any publication I'm sure there's some there.

 

As for the case saver, most all of them are that way so I wouldn't see a problem using it. I've got the TM Designworks saver on mine and I'm certain it's the same design as yours, just a different material. Thing you gotta keep in mind though, if/when a chain breaks it WILL break stuff and there will be carnage. Just hope it's at the lowest speed/RPM possible if it does break.

Edited August 9, 2011 by bigblockbanshee

[Jereme6655]

case savers are meant to save your cases........not save themselves. yes the plastic ones will break the case saver if the chain hits it hard. yes the billet case savers will break when hit by a chain hard.

 

difference is the plastic ones dont put the strain on your case right before the case saver snaps. The billet ones have been known to break and stress the cases so hard that they also break the cases........kind of a waste when your trying to save your cases.

[bansheesandrider]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

I used the front lock washer but didnt use the rear sprocket lock bars. I used alot of blue loctite on the rear nuts. I have some engine tuning to do so ill keep a close eye on the rear sprocket between runs. Ill look into getting some locking nuts. Should I just get the ones with the plastic inserts or something different?

 

There was a topic a while back about what service manual is better and im finding more and more screw ups with the clymers manual. It says the rear sprocket nuts should be torqued at 44 ft.lbs. At first i didnt think twice about it but once i started to tighten the nuts I was like wait a min.... 44 ft.lbs seems a lil much. I ended up torquing them to 25 ft.lbs. I torqued the front sprocket to 59 ft.lbs...hopefully thats right.

 

So does anyone have a factory Yamaha shop service manual with all the correct torque specs that would be willing to scan and send me? Or is there a list somewhere on this site?

 

One more thing.... I purchased a Tusk billet case saver but once I seen how it bolted on using the tiny bolts im not sure if I like the idea. It looks like the case saver will also come into contact with the case to make it more secure. I should of done my research before ordering it but im finding out that there not such a good idea. I guess the chain can bust through the plastic ones and the billet ones can still bust the case. I would think if enough pressure would hit the billet case saver it could still crack the case and/or cause damage where it bolts with the 3 small bolts and you would still end up with a messed up case. I left it off for now but just wanting some more opinions.

The 44 ft lbs is for the 87-88 4 bolt sprocket, an updated factory manual has a spec in the neighborhood of 22 ft lbs for the 6 bolt sprockets. The 4 bolt uses 10mm studs while the 6 bolt uses 8mm studs. If you are going to run a casesaver get the plastic one from TM Designworks, it is the best one on the market.