jlsparky7 Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 (edited) Lower connecting rod bearing is definitely shot so the entire engine is getting rebuilt.... On a pretty tight budget... So heres the deal. Im going to be doing a complete bottom end rebuild series and posting it to youtube. (Let me know about any tips/tricks you would like me to include!) www.youtube.com/jlsparky7 So what are my options and what is required for it to run again? Obviously I have to send the crank out if I dont get a new one and have it trued and welded. Ideas? input? What would be required for a stroker? Spacers? Rejetting? Ect.... What do you guys think about keeping it as a "sleeper" Stroker, shaved head, ect... Completely stock looking from the outside..... Edited July 29, 2011 by jlsparky7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlsparky7 Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Also what mods would you guys recommend while I have the bottom end apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burt Reynolds Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 dont rebuild the crank just buy a new one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlsparky7 Posted July 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I plan on it. Dunno if I wanna go stock or stroker. Lookin for advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 so your on a tight budget and you want to build a stroker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spurdy Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 so your on a tight budget and you want to build a stroker? Yeah, I'm with Cam. I don't think I would build a strioker on a tight budget. Puts too many limits on things like good bearing in the bottom, carbs, clutch, all the lettle extras that go with a bigger motor add up. Just build a nice strong stoke stroke. Besdies, we don't have any clue what is current ly done to your cylinders that may make it more expesnsive to change stroke length or even make it not possible. SP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlsparky7 Posted August 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Thank you for all the replies please keep them coming! The only upgrades I have done now are pro circuit platinum pipes, tors eliminator, K&N air filter, 280 mains 27.5 pilot. Just a bored and hone from CSA performance, no port work. I guess what I am getting at is how much more would it run to switch over to a stroker now vrs just a rebuild with stock parts? If its not that much more I might as well go with the stroker... All of my extra cash has gone into suspension, swingarm and rear shock are all thats stock suspension wise.... Im not worried about the extra clutch wear, or chain wear ect.... That all can be easily replaced further down the road. I might be selling a vehicle soon too so ill have some extra money to throw at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 if you put in a 4mil crank you will see slight performance increases from the stock stroke.......without porting the cylinders. however to achieve maximum power out of your bike you will need it to be ported for the 4mil crank (as your port timings will be off) like said above.....there are 2 different cranks. the short 110 crank is just that.....shorter (stock length) which has been said to put more stress on the cylinders as the piston has to rotate on the wrist pin farther and the crank is pushin on the side wall of the cylinder a little harder do to the short rod. The 115 rod is longer (by 5mm) and is said to put less side force on the piston....keeping the wear down. you could also get your case transfers port matched to your cylinders while its apart. its like an extra 100 and good for 2-3 hp (so ive been told) while you have it apart you may want to do the shift star mod and also the shift shaft mod to allow your tranny to shift nicer. if you are going to want more power but are low on funds right now you could get the 4mm crank and the new pistons and get your head cut.....then you could ride it like that until you come up with the other $400 (rough guess) for the port job for the 4mm crank..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikechief Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 get a stroker . It would be stupid to invest $400 into a stock crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlsparky7 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Thanks a TON for all of the awesome advice everyone. I think ive got it figured out but please keep the suggestions coming! Perfect. Exactly what I am thinking. Definitely considering getting all the work done through FAST. So heres what I would need, let me know if anything should be added? 4mm stroker crank 115mm rods? 2x 795 series .030 pistons Domes cut for stroker (shaved head as well?) Both cylinders bored and honed TX or max load crank bearings Pancake bearing (ill do research on this one, not sure where it goes, wanna guess the clutch?) Steel idler gear bushing Ive heard shift star mod, as well as shift shaft mod to make for easier shifting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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