Paulie B Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 I tring to decide whick route to take (always a price vs performance thing) with my rear shock. How does the stocker re-built, re-valved compare to say an entry level Works unit? Whats the cost vs cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 My rebuilt rear shock is badass and two others in my group have the same thing..... Sick and no reason to get anything else IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nastyracing Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 If you are serious about your suspension the dual rate conversion is 250$ , race tech gold kits 180$ n rebuild gotta be atleast 120$ this is my dilemma right now after u add it all up prolly be better off with after market shock I've been waiting to see a dual rate axis come around but they few and far between. Getting close to just building killer stocker. And will never buy another elka shock ever again. I blow them out every 8 months. Just my input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
So Cal Suspension Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 After being at the shop until 4am this morning, I think I figured out the issue with the stock rears. The schrader valves that I use, once seeing any type of quick, and significant temperature change, start leaking from the threads. My best guess would be the fact that the schraders themselves are brass, and the reservoirs are aluminum, they expand/contract a incredibly different rates, and leak around the threads. With that being said, I will no longer be doing the schrader valve conversion on these. I'll post other info in that thread in the Sponsor Spotlight section. As far as aftermarket vs the stock rear, look at it this way: The stock rear shock has compression adjustment, rebound adjustment, and threaded preload as mentioned above. In order to get the same options from an aftermarket shock, you're looking at spending easily $900-$1000 new. Internally, the stock rear shock is actually a VERY good shock. The shock uses a style valving called "static" valving, whereas an entry level works shock uses "progressive" valving. The benefits of each are unique. Progressive Valving: (Works, PEP, Some TCS) Pros: Can adapt to quick changes, such as hard landings, casing a jump, or hitting a whoop section hard. Incorrect valving is less noticeable to the average rider. Cons: Much more difficult to fine tune valving. Have a tendency to introduce shock fade, as the valving doesn't stay consistent with speed/velocity of the shock. Static Valving: (Elka, Axis, Some TCS, Fox, King, Ohlins, Race-Tech, etc) Pros: Much easier to fine tuner valving. Predictable valving reactions no matter the shock temp. Cons: Less adaptable to a broad range of riders (For example: You buy used shocks set up for 160lb, but you're 200lb. You WILL notice the difference) That's all I can think of. In conclusion: Static Valving > Progressive Valving in my opinion. Stick with your stock shock, have it set up for you, your bike, and your riding style and never look back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie B Posted July 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 (edited) Thank you guys for all the replies guys and thanks Matt for crackin that egg of knowledge on me. I'm def going with a stock shock rebuild/re-valve. Does anybody know if there is a dual rate spring up grade or is that something not really needed? Can someone recommend a re builder? Edited July 15, 2011 by Paulie B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Matt at So Cal Suspension Systems +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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