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crank seal replacement help


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Step 1- buy a Clymer manual

Step 2- click this link http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912

Step 3- ask questions if you're not sure about something

 

i dont have a manual, and i already looked through that thread but i want to see what i have to take apart to split the case and get to the seals not how to put a whole bottom end together because i dont want to completely tear it down

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well you kinda have to. If you want to do as little as possible then start at the 4th post after the trans and shift forks are in, well yours will still be in. You should really get the cylmers book, it has all torque specs and how to torque them down. your case bolt are not that tight so if you over tighen them you will for sure pull up threads.

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My advice.. DON'T pop ur case loose at all unless you plan to redo the entire thing. If you want to just pop up a side/corner to get the seal out, I'd be willing to bet that you'll have an air leak when you reassemble. Goodbye pistons I guess.

 

If you really want to go ahead and do it... then there's 8 nuts on the bottom, and another 8 bolts on the top. (Underneatth where the carbs should be) Be sure to only back them off a little at a time, staggered. To split, hit the case with a rubber malet, (I used a block of wood) and try to seperate with ur hands. I stood my foot in the front sprocket area, and carefully pulled up to split mine. Worked well, not much banging, and NO wedging. Goodluck btw.. Let me know how it runs after u put it together. Or how the pressure test held up. I really advise not doing this. If you pull the cases apart even a mm, you just wrecked the entire seal for the whole bottom end. Defeats the point to replace a bad seal to trade it for an air leak IMO. Anyways, my two cents. Either way, good luck to you!

Edited by figuare9
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My advice.. DON'T pop ur case loose at all unless you plan to redo the entire thing. If you want to just pop up a side/corner to get the seal out, I'd be willing to bet that you'll have an air leak when you reassemble. Goodbye pistons I guess.

 

If you really want to go ahead and do it... then there's 8 nuts on the bottom, and another 8 bolts on the top. (Underneatth where the carbs should be) Be sure to only back them off a little at a time, staggered. To split, hit the case with a rubber malet, (I used a block of wood) and try to seperate with ur hands. I stood my foot in the front sprocket area, and carefully pulled up to split mine. Worked well, not much banging, and NO wedging. Goodluck btw.. Let me know how it runs after u put it together. Or how the pressure test held up. I really advise not doing this. If you pull the cases apart even a mm, you just wrecked the entire seal for the whole bottom end. Defeats the point to replace a bad seal to trade it for an air leak IMO. Anyways, my two cents. Either way, good luck to you!

 

dont forget that behind the clutch setup is the half-moon shaped brace that holds the top and bottom case pieces together.......don't want to be yanking on that or using a jammer to get that moved...

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Save yourself the time and do it right. Don't half-ass it. Take the time to split the cases and clean everything and check everything out. Go to walmart or an autoparts store or wherever and buy like 4 or 5 cans of carb cleaner or brake cleaner and clean the cases really well before you start working on them. You will thank yourself later.

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The seal behind my front sprocket did not seat right ...do you think I can't replace it with out splitting the cases ?

 

 

You should be able to. The seal doesn't have a rib like the crank seals. Once you get the sprocket and sleeve out of the way, it should be pretty easy to pry the seal out without damaging anything.

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